Loader Bleeds Down

[jimainiac]

The loader on our Kubota L3830, will bleed down when left up. I'm wondering what I could do to make it stay up better. It has been this way since new but never really bothered me that much, as I drop the bucket down when I'm finished with the tractor. It was a problem today, though, because I was using the loader with pallet forks on, to raise shingles up to the eaves while shingling a roof. After sitting a while, the arms would lower, and the pallet, which had been level, started to angle down. I would like to remedy this if I could. I would think the problem is with the loader control valve not sealing well enough. Has anyone had any luck addressing a problem like this?

 

[RoyJackson]

The loader on our Kubota L3830, will bleed down when left up. I'm wondering what I could do to make it stay up better. It has been this way since new but never really bothered me that much, as I drop the bucket down when I'm finished with the tractor. It was a problem today, though, because I was using the loader with pallet forks on, to raise shingles up to the eaves while shingling a roof. After sitting a while, the arms would lower, and the pallet, which had been level, started to angle down. I would like to remedy this if I could. I would think the problem is with the loader control valve not sealing well enough. Has anyone had any luck addressing a problem like this?

There are a couple threads in the Safety forum addressing relying upon hydraulics.
There were a few responses discussing using some kind of mechanical device that fits over the cylinder rod between the cylinder and clevis (thus holding the cylinder open). Since I don't use my loader to hold anything up, I didn't pay too much attention to those posts, but you might want to take a look.

 

[kennyd]

Short of buying an industrial type loader with very expensive poppet control valves and pilot operated check valves on the cylinders, I don't think there is anything your going to do about this. Just the nature of the beast for CUT's.

 

[flusher]

The loader on our Kubota L3830, will bleed down when left up. I'm wondering what I could do to make it stay up better. It has been this way since new but never really bothered me that much, as I drop the bucket down when I'm finished with the tractor. It was a problem today, though, because I was using the loader with pallet forks on, to raise shingles up to the eaves while shingling a roof. After sitting a while, the arms would lower, and the pallet, which had been level, started to angle down. I would like to remedy this if I could. I would think the problem is with the loader control valve not sealing well enough. Has anyone had any luck addressing a problem like this?

I have a 2005 Kubota B7510HST with the LA302 FEL that sort of has the opposite problem: the FEL stays put and doesn't bleed down. But the 3pt will bleed down after a few hours.

According to TBN threads that I've read, the 3pt bleed down is a common problem for Kubota CUTs. It hasn't been a problem since I can close the 3pt hand valve under the seat to keep it from bleeding down.

 

[Soundguy]

Could be anything from a slight bypass inthe cy;s.. to the spool valve. Spool valve construction could be anything from metal on metal with close tolerances or oring... both can leak...

Soundguy

 

[638]

Buy a set of quick disconnects (male & female). Put a ball valve between them and put it in the circuit that is bleeding down. Raise your load and then close the ball valve. If the load then drops, the cylinder piston seal needs replacing. If not, then the control valve is worn.

ron

 

[john_bud]

It's easier to buy a plug and put it in one cylinder port (you actually need 2 plugs, one for each side's cylinder). Same deal, it will tell you if the leak is in the cylinder (common and cheap to fix) or in the valve (un-common and very expensive to fix).

Cylinders are fixed with readily available seal kits. Will be at or under $50 per cylinder and about 1 hour of your unskilled labor. The valve would need to be replaced. (it can be repaired by honing out the bore, truing the spool, plating it up and machining it to fit the new bore size - but it's probably cheaper to replace. But not cheap!!)

jb

 

[638]

Its kind of hard to raise a load with plugs in the cylinder ports.

ron

 

[john_bud]

True, but we always did that first ;-). Then blocked the bucket, set the plugs and did the checking.

Not as nice as the QD's you listed but easier on the wallet (but harder to use)

jb

 

[638]

How did you get the blocking out from under the bucket?? Then how did you lower the bucket to reinstall the hoses?? Just pull the plugs??? Sorry, but my way is much safer, and a lot easier. Can also be used for the other circuits. And if it is the control valve can be used to lock the bucket in the up position so that he might be able to finish the job at hand.

ron