Loader Pin Replacements

   / Loader Pin Replacements #1  

scott_vt

Super Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2004
Messages
7,336
Location
east wells,vt
Tractor
1986 MF 1040, 1942 Farmall A, 1949 Farmall Super A
Mornin Guys,
I thought I would post what I ended up doing to replace two of my loader pins. The pins were not getting any grease because one of the grease fittings had broke off on one side and on the other the threads were stripped out. Rather than going through welding and redrilling and tapping for new zerks I fabricated new 1" stainless pins. I drilled the pins from the end to the center and tapped the ends for the zerks. I drilled a connector hole in the middle of the pins and milled a grease groove along the length stopping before the ends. Im attaching pictures, to help explain what Im trying to say ! ;) Hopefully someone else with an older tractor that has this problem could possibly use this idea !
 

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  • Old Pins.jpg
    Old Pins.jpg
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  • New Pins.jpg
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  • Testing Pins.jpg
    Testing Pins.jpg
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   / Loader Pin Replacements #2  
Nice looking pins, Scott. Good job. They should last for your grandkids.
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements #3  
scott_vt said:
Im attaching pictures, to help explain what Im trying to say ! ;) Hopefully someone else with an older tractor that has this problem could possibly use this idea !

Wow - those are nice. I sure could use a couple of them - my loader bucket pins were obviously never greased by a previous owner - they lare literally square and the bucket clunks around when curling. I sure wish I had a milling machine in my garage :).

Where'd ya get the stainless rod?

JayC
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements #4  
Why stainless? It's usually hardened rod like 4140 steel that has been heat treated. I would have thought that stainless is too soft.

jb
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements #5  
scott_vt said:
Mornin Guys,
I thought I would post what I ended up doing to replace two of my loader pins. The pins were not getting any grease because one of the grease fittings had broke off on one side and on the other the threads were stripped out. Rather than going through welding and redrilling and tapping for new zerks I fabricated new 1" stainless pins. I drilled the pins from the end to the center and tapped the ends for the zerks. I drilled a connector hole in the middle of the pins and milled a grease groove along the length stopping before the ends. Im attaching pictures, to help explain what Im trying to say ! ;) Hopefully someone else with an older tractor that has this problem could possibly use this idea !
And you made an extra set?

CrBr
Rural Route 1
East Tn 38500

:)
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements
  • Thread Starter
#6  
JerryG said:
Nice looking pins, Scott. Good job. They should last for your grandkids.

Mornin Jerry,
Thanks, no grandkids yet, but when I do they will get the tractor ! :)


Why stainless? It's usually hardened rod like 4140 steel that has been heat treated. I would have thought that stainless is too soft.

jb

Mornin John,
The old pins were not hardened ! I used 303 stainless to make the new ones, its pretty tough material, for the amount that I use the tractor they should last forever !


Wow - those are nice. I sure could use a couple of them - my loader bucket pins were obviously never greased by a previous owner - they lare literally square and the bucket clunks around when curling. I sure wish I had a milling machine in my garage :).

Where'd ya get the stainless rod?

JayC

Mornin Jay,
Im a modelmaker by trade, and able to get that type of material at work ! ;) :)


And you made an extra set?

CrBr

Mornin CrBr,
Maybe I should go into business ? ;) :)
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements #7  
Actually, you may want to do it as a side line. I know I would pay 30 bucks a pin for ones like that (hardened steel though).

jb
 
   / Loader Pin Replacements
  • Thread Starter
#8  
john_bud said:
Actually, you may want to do it as a side line. I know I would pay 30 bucks a pin for ones like that (hardened steel though).

jb

Mornin John,
For the heck of it I got a price on 4140 rod. They sell it in 12' lengths. Price is about $10 per ft. Actually I was quoted $122 for the length. The problem would be the heat treating end for me ! I can heat treat small parts with a torch and oil quench and then draw the parts out. That is not the professional way to do that, especially if your selling parts that need to never fail ! They would need to be sent out to someone that specailizes in heat treating which would add to the price considerably ! After reading your "Broken Bolt" thread I think you know what I mean ! ;) :)
 

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