Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question

   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question #1  

fastrumme

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Tractor
terramite t5
Bought this 1 week ago from a guy in Texas. Gave him $5100 cash. It is a old Terramite...I think they were called a T3 or T4 Lamborghini ?

I had to replace the seals in every cylinder. The seal were so old and worn out that every cylinder would quickly creep down and the seals in the cylinders were crumbling apart , but the hydraulic pump still works.

The hydraulic fluid { motor oil} tank is actually part of the front frame , right below the right front mounted loader levers. The battery is under the seat . No power steering. No steel roll bar.

It has a 18 HP twin cylinder gas motor in it . I think it originally had a diesel engine in it , but someone took it out.

Does anyone know the correct pt# for the hydraulic filter ? The filter currently on it, fits and does not leak , but it is a oil filter and not a hydraulic filter { BLADWIN BT111} .I want to use the correct hydraulic filter for it. Also, how do I drain the hydraulic oil ? Im sure its full of contaminents from the cylinder seals crumbling apart. Ty
 

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   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I dont know why the photos posted upside down.

Anyways..it has a completely rebuilt 18 HP briggs engine on it...new battery..new seat ..2 new back tires..

I spent about $120 in seals to rebuild the cylinders myself. Now they do not creep anymore.
 
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   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question #3  
I sent you a message so i could get your email to send you the parts manuals.

i don't think the 18 twin is factory. they came with 14hp Kohler gas engines. The hydraulic pumps are from Vickers ( Eaton still makes parts).
the original oil filter was a serviceable filter you would remove and clean. if it's been switched to a disposable filter you'll need to measure the mounting area for the correct filter. maybe there's a part number on it somewhere.

the best way to drain the oil is to pull the lower suction tube off. this will give you a large exit also. some models have a drill/tap plug on the left hand side of the reservoir. but if you have junk in the system just pull the lower hoses. I belive both loader uprights hold oil, there should be a box tube connecting them on the bottom.

i had water in mine due to a cracked weld on the reservoir and i ended up taking off every hose and flushing all the hoses and cylinders to get out as much water as i could prior to completing multiple oil changes.
 
   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Ty , I will send you a PM with my email , to get the parts manual . The guy I bought this from, told me he got it at a auction for around $2000 and then he put another $1500 or so in it....new back tires, completely rebuilt V twin 18 HP gas Briggs engine , replaced most of the hoses and some other things. He said when he pressure washed it, so he could paint it , it had stickers on it that said it had a diesel engine in it originally but someone had replaced the diesel engine with a single cylinder 14 HP gas engine , but then the guy I bought it from put in the 18 HP gas BRIGGS engine , V twin .

The piston cylinder seals in every cylinder were falling apart so badly, that plastic crumbles were mixed in with the hydraulic motor oil . The hydraulic pump still seems to work though and I hope that the eroding seal material has not caused damage to the hydraulic pump.

Does this old terramite have the hydraulic oil screen , that is either inside the hydraulic oil tank or in the tank outlet hose ?

Would it be safe to flush the hydraulic tank { frame } with diesel instead of oil ?

The cup seals that go on the inside of the hydraulic cylinder and on the piston were so badly destroyed that several of them were not even in 1 piece anymore and they looked like crushed oreo cookies . In fact, on the inside of those cup piston seals, is another rubber O ring and you could actually see that internal O ring ...thats how badly eroded the 2 piston seals were in each cylinder.

One of the cylinders that had been rebuilt by the guy I bought it from had developed hydrolock and would not move at all . When I took it apart, I could see that the guy had put new seals in it, but the reason it was locking up was because 1 of the O ring seals that had previously been exposed from the inside of the badly worn piston seals , had broken in half and gotten jammed inside the hydraulic hose to the boom lift cylinder and it blocked any hydraulic fluid from entering that cylinder. This caused the boom up/down to lock in 1 position and not move at all.

Im just hoping that the plastic/nylon debris from all the crumbling piston seals in the hydraulic cylinders has not caused extensive damage to the hydraulic pump. I would guess since the eroded piston seal debris is not hard material { like dirt,stones, metal, etc} that damage to the pump from that softer material would be minimal ?

This machine had me confused, because it has the forward/reverse hydraulic pedal on the left hand side, instead of the right side. I spoke with Terramite and they told me that this machine must have been a special order for someone who had a missing right leg or stroke that caused them to only be able to use their left leg.
 
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   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I was informed that the proper hydraulic filter is NAPA 1759 or WIX 51759. Those are actually oil filters and not specific hydraulic filters, because we are supposed to be using motor oil for the hydraulics anyways. Right now, the machine has a BALDWIN BT111 filter on it, which fits properly and doesnt have any leaks , but im gonna go with 1 of the above recommended filters .

If anyone is interested in a set of pallet forks for their machine, ebay sells them for around $50 shipped to your door. They clamp on quickly to the front loader . I just got my set and I am amazed at how well made these forks are , and how heavy they are . I do not understand how they can build and ship a pair of these pallet forks for $50 and still make money.
 
   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question #7  
Maybe this will help someone. Here is a link to the clamp on pallet forks. For $50 , these are very handy and seem to be well made.

3lbs Capacity 43" Clamp on Pallet Forks Skidsteer Loader Bucket Tractor Chain | eBay

Thanks!
I just ordered a set for my little Ford 1920.
I have a larger machine with 4500lb. rated QA forks, but occasionally I would like the convenience of using the little Ford for light stuff.
Even though my bucket bottom has been replaced with thicker material, I would be fearful of bending it if trying to lift more than about 6 or 700 lbs.
These should be handy though..
I also have a set of 3pt. forks, and the 3pt will lift 2000+ lbs., but it will only lift a pallet about 18" off the ground.
 
   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks!
I just ordered a set for my little Ford 1920.
I have a larger machine with 4500lb. rated QA forks, but occasionally I would like to use the little Ford for lifting light stuff.
These will be handy..
I also have a set of 3pt. forks, but the 3pt. hitch will only lift a pallet about 18" off the ground.

The quality of these forks/welds for $50 shipped to your door, is astounding. I bet they weigh around 50 lbs , so I dont know how much it costs them to be shipped , let alone the material costs for the forks.
 
   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Alexhasson...I never got your PM.. with the download of the manual...I sent you a PM...
 
   / Look at this old T5 from the mid 1970s, I just purchased... I have a quick question #10  
I emailed the PDF's just now so they are in your email.

flushing with diesel is an old school method, i wouldn't recommend it. 5 gallons of it will cost about 20-25$ depending on the local price. if you go to tractor supply you can get 5 gallons of ISO 48 hydraulic for under 40$.

I used about 20 gallons through an auxiliary pump to clear every hose and cylinder to remove as much water as possible. it took half the day to disconnect everything and flush but it's worth it.
 
 
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