Mahindra 4025 grinds gears even with clutch all the way in

[farok]

I have a 4025 that has less than 300 hours on it. That said, I've only owned it for about 2 runtime hours of that (haven't really started using it regular yet). When I test drove the tractor, everything worked fine, shifted nicely, no issues.

Last week, I noticed that when I try to go into gear, it was grinding a bit, and has gotten worse. This is with the clutch half-depressed only. PTO worked fine -- engages and disengages with no issues -- with the clutch all the way down as it should.

This week, the gears grind even with the clutch fully depressed, but the PTO still works fine.

To be more specific, as I recall:

• If both the high-low and gear selector are in neutral and I depress the clutch (half-way or full), I can put the tractor into any gear, but when I go to put the high-low in either position after selecting a gear, it grinds pretty bad. High is worse than low FWIW.
• If both are in neutral, if I start with the high-low, it grinds unless I work very quickly, and then when I go to the gear selector, those gears grind as well.
• If both are in neutral, I can put both the high-low and gear selector where I want at the same time and little to no grinding if I do so very quickly.
• If I'm working in a gear and put the clutch in to switch gears only, then if I shift very quickly, little to no grinding, but after a few seconds with the clutch in, it grinds going into any other gear.
• If I'm working in a gear, I can't switch low to high without grinding.

It seems when I put the clutch in, the high-low isn't engaged (since it will slow as it grinds), but spins up with the engine if left to its own. If that's in gear, the same happens with the gear selector instead.

I tried adjusting the clutch adjustment, but it was about at the end of its travel - any less and the clutch stops engaging at all.

Given it's impacting both gear selector and high-low, I thought maybe it's an issue with the tractor hydraulic fluid level as well. However, the fluid seems to be between the two marks at the bottom of the dipstick. Is it right that there are just two little marks at the bottom of the stick about 1/4" apart? I want to be sure I'm reading this correctly.

If it's not the THF, am I looking at a clutch issue or transmission issue?

I'm at a loss and don't want to damage the gears, but it's to the point where I need to use the tractor as well. Not to mention, high gears are almost impossible to use without some real grinding. At least I found a means to get it in gear with little to no grinding for now, but this is not ideal unless I need to "set it and forget it" for something like brush hogging.

Thanks for the help and direction!

Chris

 

[jaxs]

Dual clutches have other adjustments in addition to pedal travel. Consult shop manual for procedure.

 

[farok]

The manual only lists the pedal travel adjustment. If someone knows the other adjustments on this tractor, that'd be great. Otherwise, I'll check with the dealer next time I'm out that way.

Any other possible causes I should look at?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[SimpleSimon]

I have a 4025 4WD and experience the same symptoms, and this must be a non-synchronised gearbox. You say it's gotten worse, but is it possible that you are engaging at higher RPM than you did initially? I always throttle down when first getting into gear, the lower the better. Also, this is not a shift-on-the-fly unit, unless you match RPM with speed, which is tricky.
Simon

 

[jaxs]

I don't have firsthand experience with your make and model but do have alot of experience with several other brands and all of them require disc adjustment as routine maintenance. Perhaps you are looking at the operator's manual which doesn't go that deep on repair and maintenance. If your manual lists all specs such as rod/main jurnal size,bearing clearance,overhaul and rebuild instructions,it should tell you how to adjust discs. If not you need to buy a shop manual if you plan to repair and maintain the tractor your self. Few people are willing to look this stuff up for you when you could buy the manual. There's several Mahindra owners here at TBN so maybe they have experience with clutch adj. As Simon says,the gearbox isn't s synchronized which few tractors are but that doesn't equate to gear grinding when not in motion. I'm interested to hear whether Mahindra require's new clutch packs every time discs wear down. That would be a first.

 

[Vio]

Clutch interior disk is secured to the plate, and the motor, with 10 bolts - these are fixed, and adjust noting. There are 6 nuts that adjust the plate spring pressure, and therefore help separate the motor from the gears. These nuts adjust the gap that clutch pedal activates. If they are too tight then there may be slipage, and if too lose there may be not enough separation, the disk will continue to spin, and the gears will grind. These nuts are secured to the bolts by hamering them with a dorn on the sides, after tightening to the desired distance. If not secured they will become loose, and thus the clutch will not separate, which in time gets worse. The factory clutch pressure, after measuring the gap, which is adjustable, but the tractor needs to be split in half, and the clutch removed, inspected for damage, and re-adjusted if not warped or any part damaged. There is not other way arround it but split the tractor and see what is going on. Once in, press clutch pedal and check the bearing on the gearbox side, sometimes these go bad. It is a simple task, but time consuming. I replaced the clutch a few days ago, and now it works like a charm.

 

[SimpleSimon]

If it grinds some, then goes into gear it's probably normal. Mine will do that especially when first started and not warmed up. After that, it will slip into another gear without grinding if you let the tractor stop before shifting into another gear. After warming up, it will still grind a little or 'bump' into gear if you take it out gear then re-engage.