Atlanta Panther
Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2013
- Messages
- 45
- Location
- Madison, Ga
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200HST with LA524 Loader, Quick Connect; Loaded R4 Tires
I'm new to tractoring but I think I picked a good one last year (with a lot of people's guidance) in a new kubota L3200 HST 4WD for my 20 acre horse farm that is supposed to be our retirement abode. 
Early this year it came time for the first 50 hour maintenance. I've done routine maintenance on cars and motorcycles but this is my first experience with a tractor. I've been trying to learn as much as I can from the manuals and from great web sites like this one where everyone is really helpful. I thought I'd return the favor so I created a series of postings for novices like me to show them the results of what I've learned to make it easier for them when it comes their time to do their own maintenance. I'm sure this is old hat to many of you, but comments and suggestions from the tractor veterans here are welcome!
In this thread lets take care of what actually keeps you rolling!
Tires and wheels are usually taken for granted until you have a flat tire but with the abuse your tractor gets with the shaking and bouncing as you go over the back 40 (or just that rock-infested pasture), things get loose and tire pressure is lowered.
Good news here - No replacement parts required for normal maintenance. Tools needed include:
Now about air pressure. I had liquid ballast put in my tires like many people do. As a result, if the tire valve position happens to be down at the bottom of the wheel, you need to move your tractor so the valve is at the 12 O'clock position. Why? If the valve is below the level of the liquid ballast (which should only fill about 3/4 or so of the tire), you'll get liquid coming out when you put your tire gauge on it to measure the pressure and won't get a true reading. Your recommended tire pressure depends on the tires you have and whether you are using a loader or front weights. I have the R4 tires and a FEL which call for a tire pressure of 30 psi all around. My rear tires were pretty low so I got them back to snuff.
One last thing. Take a quick scan of your tires to make sure you don't have any bulges in them or things sticking in them and act accordingly. Similarly, look at your wheels to make sure their are no cracks in them. I know it sounds like overkill, but I once was towing my 32 foot horse trailer up to Lexington, Virginia. When I got to the horse park and went to the campground after stalling the horses, the guy in the RV spot next to me noticed that I had a three inch split in my F250 wheel. How it was still holding air is beyond me. I still shudder to think what could have happened going up the interstates with my precious cargo.
Good Luck!
:cool2:
Early this year it came time for the first 50 hour maintenance. I've done routine maintenance on cars and motorcycles but this is my first experience with a tractor. I've been trying to learn as much as I can from the manuals and from great web sites like this one where everyone is really helpful. I thought I'd return the favor so I created a series of postings for novices like me to show them the results of what I've learned to make it easier for them when it comes their time to do their own maintenance. I'm sure this is old hat to many of you, but comments and suggestions from the tractor veterans here are welcome!
In this thread lets take care of what actually keeps you rolling!
Tires and wheels are usually taken for granted until you have a flat tire but with the abuse your tractor gets with the shaking and bouncing as you go over the back 40 (or just that rock-infested pasture), things get loose and tire pressure is lowered.
Good news here - No replacement parts required for normal maintenance. Tools needed include:
- Torque Wrench with extension
- 22mm and 24mm sockets
- Tire gauge
- Compressor or air canister with chuck
Now about air pressure. I had liquid ballast put in my tires like many people do. As a result, if the tire valve position happens to be down at the bottom of the wheel, you need to move your tractor so the valve is at the 12 O'clock position. Why? If the valve is below the level of the liquid ballast (which should only fill about 3/4 or so of the tire), you'll get liquid coming out when you put your tire gauge on it to measure the pressure and won't get a true reading. Your recommended tire pressure depends on the tires you have and whether you are using a loader or front weights. I have the R4 tires and a FEL which call for a tire pressure of 30 psi all around. My rear tires were pretty low so I got them back to snuff.
One last thing. Take a quick scan of your tires to make sure you don't have any bulges in them or things sticking in them and act accordingly. Similarly, look at your wheels to make sure their are no cracks in them. I know it sounds like overkill, but I once was towing my 32 foot horse trailer up to Lexington, Virginia. When I got to the horse park and went to the campground after stalling the horses, the guy in the RV spot next to me noticed that I had a three inch split in my F250 wheel. How it was still holding air is beyond me. I still shudder to think what could have happened going up the interstates with my precious cargo.
Good Luck!
:cool2:
