Man killed while felling trees
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Varmintmist
Platinum Member
BLAST !!!!!!!!
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I never said what you are doing wont work. What I'm saying is that steady pressure is a whole lot safer than repeated strong press and release.
As for that particular tree, if it was a DIY and I couldnt get a tractor operator. You did about what you could. The lean isnt that bad, but that big limb is a problem child. That close to something, its a pullover. The thing is that press and release you could eaisly end up with the wole thing over on the container.
Wedging your felling cut, WHILE you are making it would still make the prosess a little safer. You keep upward pressure on the tree with the wedge. If you have to leave off with the tractor, you still have something to hold the tree.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I never said what you are doing wont work. What I'm saying is that steady pressure is a whole lot safer than repeated strong press and release.
As for that particular tree, if it was a DIY and I couldnt get a tractor operator. You did about what you could. The lean isnt that bad, but that big limb is a problem child. That close to something, its a pullover. The thing is that press and release you could eaisly end up with the wole thing over on the container.
Wedging your felling cut, WHILE you are making it would still make the prosess a little safer. You keep upward pressure on the tree with the wedge. If you have to leave off with the tractor, you still have something to hold the tree.
Libertine,
Under the circumstances of having to work alone, I'd say you did a great job.
Heed the advise of Varmintmist. He's correct. (avoid repeated pulls, use wedges...).
The one thing that I'd have done slightly different is to get some more weight on the back of your tractor. When the chain is connected up high like that, it will try to lift the back end of the tractor. Should that happen, you'll probably slide backwards and face the potential of the tree going over the wrong direction (and taking you for one heck of a ride).
Under the circumstances of having to work alone, I'd say you did a great job.
Heed the advise of Varmintmist. He's correct. (avoid repeated pulls, use wedges...).
The one thing that I'd have done slightly different is to get some more weight on the back of your tractor. When the chain is connected up high like that, it will try to lift the back end of the tractor. Should that happen, you'll probably slide backwards and face the potential of the tree going over the wrong direction (and taking you for one heck of a ride).
Libertine
Gold Member
Varmintmist:
<font color="blue">Wedging your felling cut, WHILE you are making it would still make the prosess a little safer. </font>
No doubt. And I thank you guys for suggesting use of wedges in the back (relieving?) cut. Hadn't thought of using something like that myself and will CERTAINLY be buying some before the next one goes down. Good advice. Appreciate it - sure don't want to end up like the beaver in the picture!
<font color="blue">What I'm saying is that steady pressure is a whole lot safer than repeated strong press and release. </font>
I apologize, guess I didn't express myself very well. I keep tension on the tree with the tractor, not alternate, to get it going over. When I increment the cuts with the chainsaw the chain is tight to the tractor. I'm not relying on "momentum" from the tractor to exert the foot pounds of enery to make it go over. Keep the line tight & pull. If doesn't go over, keep line tight while go back and make a little deeper cuts, then pull again.
<font color="blue">The lean isnt that bad, but that big limb is a problem child. </font>
Yup. In addition, that limb is also exerting force contrary to desired fall direction. But lean wasn't real bad - if it had been, probably wouldn't have tackled it that way. The one I took down last week-end was much worse-probably 15+ degrees against desired fall direction. But the tree was much shorter and I had cut away a lot of limbs (from around the wires) before attempting to get it over so I was dealing with less weight.
Anyway, from your comments (and others) I guess given that particular tree in that particular location the way I did it was the best under the circumstances (except for use of wedges, which I will be using in the future). That's why I posted the pics to see if there might have been a better/safer way under the existing conditions. After all, you guys have certainly cut down a lot more trees than I have. Thanks.
JEH
<font color="blue">Wedging your felling cut, WHILE you are making it would still make the prosess a little safer. </font>
No doubt. And I thank you guys for suggesting use of wedges in the back (relieving?) cut. Hadn't thought of using something like that myself and will CERTAINLY be buying some before the next one goes down. Good advice. Appreciate it - sure don't want to end up like the beaver in the picture!
<font color="blue">What I'm saying is that steady pressure is a whole lot safer than repeated strong press and release. </font>
I apologize, guess I didn't express myself very well. I keep tension on the tree with the tractor, not alternate, to get it going over. When I increment the cuts with the chainsaw the chain is tight to the tractor. I'm not relying on "momentum" from the tractor to exert the foot pounds of enery to make it go over. Keep the line tight & pull. If doesn't go over, keep line tight while go back and make a little deeper cuts, then pull again.
<font color="blue">The lean isnt that bad, but that big limb is a problem child. </font>
Yup. In addition, that limb is also exerting force contrary to desired fall direction. But lean wasn't real bad - if it had been, probably wouldn't have tackled it that way. The one I took down last week-end was much worse-probably 15+ degrees against desired fall direction. But the tree was much shorter and I had cut away a lot of limbs (from around the wires) before attempting to get it over so I was dealing with less weight.
Anyway, from your comments (and others) I guess given that particular tree in that particular location the way I did it was the best under the circumstances (except for use of wedges, which I will be using in the future). That's why I posted the pics to see if there might have been a better/safer way under the existing conditions. After all, you guys have certainly cut down a lot more trees than I have. Thanks.
JEH
WCarlson
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2003
- Messages
- 214
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200
Wedges do work, however, if you are going to do a lot of felling, I strongly recommend the <font color="blue"> Norwood Timber Tool</font> . It is a bit pricey, but works really well and allows you to put significant force on the tree in the direction you want it to go, while precluding saw binding in the felling cut. I have had one for about five years and wouldn't fell anything of size without it.
Bill
Bill
Varmintmist
Platinum Member
Now thats just plain cheating.
What do they cost? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Only thing that I would be uncomfortable with is its something to fall over if you gotta beat feet. Still, looks like a heck of an idea.
A felling lever is pretty slick to. http://www.novajack.com/en/0204.htm
What do they cost? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Only thing that I would be uncomfortable with is its something to fall over if you gotta beat feet. Still, looks like a heck of an idea.
A felling lever is pretty slick to. http://www.novajack.com/en/0204.htm
Varmintmist
Platinum Member
Another good artical. Interesting approach to hollows to
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Good_Felling_Practices.html
A cant hook/felling lever link
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Good_Felling_Practices.html
A cant hook/felling lever link
WCarlson
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2003
- Messages
- 214
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200
Varmintmist,
I paid $295 plus shipping in 1998. They currently go for $350. plus shipping. I haven't found it to be a tripping hazard, just something to be aware of when you plan an escape route.
Bill
I paid $295 plus shipping in 1998. They currently go for $350. plus shipping. I haven't found it to be a tripping hazard, just something to be aware of when you plan an escape route.
Bill
Libertine
Gold Member
Varmintmist & WCarlson:
Nice refs. The chain saw "mills" would be handy - next one coming down has 25'-30' nice straight trunk. Could make an easy 12"-15"+ square beam - ought to be worth something. Ah well. Given the weight of a larger tree, wonder if the jack would hold it especially if it was leaning in wrong direction?
JEH
Nice refs. The chain saw "mills" would be handy - next one coming down has 25'-30' nice straight trunk. Could make an easy 12"-15"+ square beam - ought to be worth something. Ah well. Given the weight of a larger tree, wonder if the jack would hold it especially if it was leaning in wrong direction?
JEH
WCarlson
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2003
- Messages
- 214
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200
Libertine,
When I do a large one with negative lean, I usually put a line high in the tree, fair lead the line in the direction I want it to go, then using a block, lead the line to a safe location where I tension it with either the tractor or a come along. Then use the combination of tension and the timber tool to drop it. If the negative lean is severe, I thin the side of the tree that is causing the negative lean with a rope saw or go up it and thin. Then use the combination of timber tool and tension to bring it down. There are times when negative lean is so severe and the drop area is so restricted that the only choice is to top the tree and bring it down in sections.
Bill
When I do a large one with negative lean, I usually put a line high in the tree, fair lead the line in the direction I want it to go, then using a block, lead the line to a safe location where I tension it with either the tractor or a come along. Then use the combination of tension and the timber tool to drop it. If the negative lean is severe, I thin the side of the tree that is causing the negative lean with a rope saw or go up it and thin. Then use the combination of timber tool and tension to bring it down. There are times when negative lean is so severe and the drop area is so restricted that the only choice is to top the tree and bring it down in sections.
Bill
