Massey-Harris-Ferguson MF50 Worth Starting?

[WranglerBowman]

Hi all, I bought this MF50 Z134 a couple years back because it had a loader and it was (I thought) a good price but non running condition. The guy said the starter went bad and while replacing it he dropped a nut into the flywheel, then he got sick and it's just sat since. When I drained the oil about a quart+ of water came out with the oil and I went into panic mode. I dropped the oil pan and it looks like the water has been in there some time as there's rust on the rod bolts. I knocked a couple pieces of scale rust off that looked loose and then coated a rag with oil and wiped it across the rust to see how much came off, not a whole lot but some. I sealed the pan back up and filled it with oil, then put some large magnets on the bottom of the pan, away from the sump, but curious if this engine is even worth starting? The tach shows 2300 hours but we know how that goes. Any insight is appreciated.

 

[Roadworthy]

You went to the trouble and expense of purchasing the tractor. You've put fresh oil into the engine. Check the antifreeze for freeze level. If no freeze damage was done your only added expense at this point may be a battery. If I bought it I'd at least see if it runs and go from there, but that's me.

 

[LouNY]

did you find the nut that had been dropped down by the flywheel?
If so I would certainly be starting it up.
If not I'd be doing a lot of fishing with a magnet and maybe turning the engine over slowly with a bar on the crank,
or by levering the ring gear till found first, then start it up.

 

[WranglerBowman]

did you find the nut that had been dropped down by the flywheel?
If so I would certainly be starting it up.
If not I'd be doing a lot of fishing with a magnet and maybe turning the engine over slowly with a bar on the crank,
or by levering the ring gear till found first, then start it up.

I DID get the nut out, that was half the reason for dropping the oil pan, as some of the oil pan is sectioned off to cover the flywheel. I'm thinking someone left water in the engine over winter and there's a hairline split somewhere which is where all the water came from. I'm sure it could be a headgasket also. My concern with trying to start it up is fine rust will circulate throughout the whole engine and just score everything up forcing me to completely replace and machine every internal engine part... I don't know how much I trust the magnets and filter to catch all the rust particles, maybe I'm just being too cautious, I just don't have time to rebuild an engine any time soon.

 

[LouNY]

With just a qt of water, and being concerned about a freeze crack I would get an inexpensize radiator pressure test kit and pressurize the system to about 15 psi and see if you get water in the crankcase, if not roll it over to make sure its free then go for a start.

 

[WranglerBowman]

I do plan to buy a pressure test kit, this is something I needed a while ago. I know the motor is free, as that's the first I checked when I was looking at it, then checked the oil and it was straight oil on the dipstick. I guess it sat so long that the oil and water pretty cleanly separated and the dipstick doesn't go deep enough to hit the water. When looking at a non running tractors I (now) always drain a little oil from the pan nut, to make sure there's no water/coolant sitting the bottom.

 

[shaeff]

I'd try to give it a start, following the advice posted above. You don't really have much to lose!

 

[can do]

Hi all, I bought this MF50 Z134 a couple years back because it had a loader and it was (I thought) a good price but non running condition. The guy said the starter went bad and while replacing it he dropped a nut into the flywheel, then he got sick and it's just sat since. When I drained the oil about a quart+ of water came out with the oil and I went into panic mode. I dropped the oil pan and it looks like the water has been in there some time as there's rust on the rod bolts. I knocked a couple pieces of scale rust off that looked loose and then coated a rag with oil and wiped it across the rust to see how much came off, not a whole lot but some. I sealed the pan back up and filled it with oil, then put some large magnets on the bottom of the pan, away from the sump, but curious if this engine is even worth starting? The tach shows 2300 hours but we know how that goes. Any insight is appreciated.

I just noticed this thread ! Have You started the tractor yet ? I have a few suggestions if You haven't squirt each cylinder with some 10w-40 & let sit in there about a 1/2 hour then some 10w30 engine oil & again let it sit about 15 min. & pull the coil wire!Turn over 5to6 times then put coil wire back on then try to start oil pressure should be about 38 to 40 on the gauge if it works? If it starts check gauge again if pressure is normal let it run about a 1/2 hour & shut her down & drain the oil , Also make sure the fuel valve is off & if the tractor has still been sitting all this time don't be surprised if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel , If you find that it is take the fill cap off for the gear oil & insert a long pry bar into the flywheel teeth & pry it tell it frees it up & after that always set a small piece of a 2x4 in when the clutch pedal is slightly depressed & this will always keep it from being stuck & Don't be surprised to find water in there as well if You drain it will take 8 gallons of 90/80 mineral gear oil ! & you can get it at NAPA , TSC ,& at some M-F dealers this type of oil is needed because of brass fittings internal & if your going keep it , I recommend a manual. I have a 1959 M-F 50 Z134 Continental as well & it was the 1st tractor I have owned & I have had it for 25 years now & still use it year round & is very reliable.