MF188 headlight upgrade

[Ausmac]

Hi guys. Just wondering if anyone has found an led light that will fit the original headlamp shrouds of a 188 tractor. Have been looking online but haven稚 found anything yet. Surely someone has made an update to the candles they burned???

 

[PatrickS2222]

I have a 135 and fitted H7 55W globes in place of the woeful 35W original candles - not what you're asking for, but, to me at least, a beneficial and cost-effective improvement. I had to make suitable retaining clips from suitable stiff wire. They are only one beam - H4s might be an option if you do require both main and dipped beams.

 

[Ausmac]

Thanks Patrick. I will have a look at those. Not after high/low beam but anything brighter will be a benefit.

 

[def38]

Thanks Patrick. I will have a look at those. Not after high/low beam but anything brighter will be a benefit.

I am installing HIDs in my 231 rectangular headlight housings. Reason for HIDs? They have a better wavelength spectrum (I'm using 4300 K lamps) and the lumen out put is in the 3300lumen range for each lamp. I know, the HIDs draw more current and have a high inrush (~20 amps) at cold strike but once running, about half of the current draw of OE incandescents. The drawback for HIDs? The ballast and igniter have to be located somewhere in the vicinity of the headlamp housing...not too difficult on a tractor or automobile but possibly challenging on a motorcycle. Yes, LEDs are even less power hungry but, heat is their enemy and many LED headlamps use some sort of radiator to cool the assembly. Also, our tractors usually run a bit hot in the areas where LEDs are mounted.

HIDs benefit from projector headlamp housing designs which are not found on tractors (headlight housings are typically parabolic and without a projector lens or cutoff). But inasmuch as our tractors are operated mostly offroad and in areas where vegetation is prevalent, HIDs help illuminate more efficiently.

 

[shaeff]

Here's what I did, pics in post #7:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...headlight-options.html?highlight=#post5379149

I see no need for HIDs. Too much money, effort, and wiring for a tractor. We're not driving 55mph here.

The LEDs I put on my machine are VERY bright. When all four are turned on I can't possibly think to need more light than what I've got unless I decided to add side lights near the steps.

 

[def38]

Here's what I did, pics in post #7:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...headlight-options.html?highlight=#post5379149

I see no need for HIDs. Too much money, effort, and wiring for a tractor. We're not driving 55mph here.

The LEDs I put on my machine are VERY bright. When all four are turned on I can't possibly think to need more light than what I've got unless I decided to add side lights near the steps.

You're right, there is likely no need for HIDs on a tractor. But, I already have all the needed hardware, lamps, relays, wiring for hot areas of the tractor and I prefer HID light spectrum to the light from LEDs. Also, the HIDs are much more tolerant of heat than LEDs. I do have a LED light bar rearward facing to light up the area behind the tractor when mowing, disking or whatever.

BTW, HID kits are now pretty cheap and may be less than high lumen LED headlamp inserts (55 watt equivalents).

 

[shaeff]

You're right, there is likely no need for HIDs on a tractor. But, I already have all the needed hardware, lamps, relays, wiring for hot areas of the tractor and I prefer HID light spectrum to the light from LEDs. Also, the HIDs are much more tolerant of heat than LEDs. I do have a LED light bar rearward facing to light up the area behind the tractor when mowing, disking or whatever.

BTW, HID kits are now pretty cheap and may be less than high lumen LED headlamp inserts (55 watt equivalents).

I hear ya. I just like the simplicity of wiring up LEDs. Really no need even to put a relay in because they draw so little. I put a relay in anyway though because old habits die hard. But yes, the color temperature if you stay around 4300k is fantastic. I can't argue against you on that.

Side note- I do love HIDs, years ago I grabbed some Infiniti FX35 Bixenon HID projector headlights, tore out the projectors and custom mounted them in factory Euro ZKW glass lensed headlights on my e36 M3. I wanted a factory look so I drilled the low beam lenses with a 70mm diamond hole saw and allowed only the projector to protrude through. The light output was incredible and the looked killer.

 

[def38]

Yup, I'm a relay man also. Relays help protect switch contacts from high loads. In fact, on my motorcycle, my headlight comes on with key on, extinguishes with starter engagement then comes back on when the start button is released. HIDs don't like hot restrikes so, I have a delay relay that eliminates hot restrikes and energizes the HID circuit after 8 seconds.

My HIDs came from India not China. The ballasts are rather large hunks of machined aluminum that house the voltage regulation circuit. They never get more than warm to the touch. The igniter is a separate box.

Once I get around to it, I'll remove the motorhome incandescent headlamp assemblies, fiberglass and bondo the factory headlight openings and mount some Hellas in place of the plastic junk in there now. The low beams will be HID, the high beams will be incandescent. I'll replace the weak, useless backup lights with a LED lightbar so my BU camera can see at night when backing into a campground space.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Yup, I'm a relay man also. Relays help protect switch contacts from high loads. In fact, on my motorcycle, my headlight comes on with key on, extinguishes with starter engagement then comes back on when the start button is released. HIDs don't like hot restrikes so, I have a delay relay that eliminates hot restrikes and energizes the HID circuit after 8 seconds.

Now you have me curious. What's involved in a delay relay? More specifically: How do you build one?