Buying Advice Mid Mount Mower or 3pt finish for Kioti CK2510

[Buggs67]

I have a Kioti CK2510 and am getting ready to close on property with some acreage to mow, guessing 3-4 spread out around the house and driveway and out buildings.

The MMM seems to be the compact convenient way, except it can't mow anything you can't drive over (dead-ends, corners). And from other posts here they seem to cost $2,500ish.

The 3pt finish mower seems easier to attach/detach and it can cut anywhere I can drive over or back into. And pricing them on Google it seems a 5' is $1,000 to $1,500 depending on brand. The drawback is PTO hp and the fact that the land is downhill behind the home. And some poster recommend leaving the FEL on or adding suitcase weights to balance the weight of the mower making it less maneuverable.

So is it worth $1,000-1,500 more for the maneuverability.

Having no experience with mowing with a CUT any input would be appreciated.

 

[Sysop]

Either is going to require PTO HP and the amount required will depend on the cut size. A 60" 3-blade deck is going to require the same power whether it is under the tractor or behind it.

Whoever said you needed you leave the FEL on to balance the weight of the finish mower on the back was "inexperienced" (to be nice). A rear finish mower only puts weight on the back of the tractor if you pick it up. They have wheels at all corners they roll on when in use, and only use the three point to remain square behind the tractor for the driveline alignment. There is no reason to keep the FEL on while mowing. A 'brush-hog/rotary cutter/rough cut mower' is different as it only has a wheel or two on the tail and the tractor does support the front of the deck. For something like that you would want weight on the front, so perhaps that is the type of "mower" that person was discussing.

On my land, a mid-mount mower is actually less maneuverable due to the fact it high centers under the tractor easier. A rear mower with anti-scalp skids/rollers drags right over these areas.

 

[LD48750]

For many years I used a 3pt attached to my Ford 2N and the wife used her rider around the house & for the trimming.
Last year I finally got a 4x4 tractor with a mid mount mower.
Tried the 3pt behind the new(er) tractor & even though the 3pt is 6' and the MMM is 5', the MMM wins.
MUCH more maneuverable and able to get closer to things.

 

[Buggs67]

All good information. Thanks.

 

[TheMan419]

For the money you would spend on a MMM look at ZRT as well.

 

[boggen]

finishing mower = if the MMM (mid mount mower) / belly mower = a drive over mower deck then might be worth it. pulling MMM from the side can be difficult at times. if you have a nice concrete / paved area were you actually have plenty of room removing the deck and putting it back on ya ok, perhaps.

it kills ones neck simply turning around to look behind you to make sure you are actually cutting what you want vs being 1 foot or more over area you already cut or leaving a strip of grass behind you uncut. MMM you just glance down a little to check were you are cutting.

for cutting taller weeds get a rotatory cutter (lamen term = bush hog = also a name brand)

you can cut taller weeds with a finishing mower, but you tend to have to take half passes with deck all the way raised, (only cutting half the width of the deck), and then if in my case (security police) i have to remove the covers over the belt for the finishing mower. so i can see the tops of the pulleys. to make sure while mowing tall weeds that none of the pulleys/blades have not stopped / not turning / barely turning. you normally eat up a finishing mower belt doing this. if you are not paying attention to the pulleys on finishing mower. finishing mower belts can be stupidly expensive pending on what is required. and it does pay to get correct belt. *meh* been to long to remember type of belt to look for i want to say Kevlar higher content within the belt so it handles higher temperatures and does no stretch as much.

 

[paulfun9]

it kills ones neck simply turning around to look behind you to make sure you are actually cutting what you want vs being 1 foot or more over area you already cut or leaving a strip of grass behind you uncut. MMM you just glance down a little to check were you are cutting.

.

I have to question this as I have absolutely no problem cutting where I need to and don't have to look back unless I am backing under the trees or something like that. Seems to me this has more to do with ones ability to drive rather than the mower being off the rear or under the center.

 

[Mattt2778]

I would have to say none of the above. Get a zero turn. I have just short of 3 acres and when I purchased my emax 3 years ago I got the 60"mmm thinking it would be faster than the residential grade 44" zero turn I'd been using. Well as it turns out the old toro time cutter was faster and easier plus there was no removing loaders or mmm mowers. I ended up selling the mmm back to the dealer for half what I payed for it. In the end it was a costly mistake, even with the higher ground speed and power steering the tractor just isn't a lawn mower.

 

[grnspot110]

I agree with the MMM fans, for years I've been using a 5'-3-pt on my gear drive JD 790. Last fall, I found a JD 755 (hydro) with 5' MMM, very happy with it! I'm mowing pond lots & in around trees at the farm & the bigger tires of the tractor give a much better ride than the Bush Hog zero I used to have. For my yard at home, I use a JD F725 front deck, had the zero for nine years & went back to the front deck. Not knocking zeros for those who like them, they're just not my favorite!

 

[boggen]

I have to question this as I have absolutely no problem cutting where I need to and don't have to look back unless I am backing under the trees or something like that. Seems to me this has more to do with ones ability to drive rather than the mower being off the rear or under the center.

not able to argue with you. perhaps just me. to many trees / hills / change of directions and avoiding stuff in front of me. no real long areas of straight. perhaps it is just habit with dealing with stuff on the rear and looking back to check stuff.

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on another note. folks are stating zero turn mowers. but i am questioning the "hills" OP (original poster) has posted. along with want to cut some taller grass. your asking for OP to get a larger size zero turn nearing at or at commercial grade vs a cheaper smaller zero turn that may have issues with cutting thicker and/or taller grass.