Mits MT180....starts and stalls

[CooHead]

WTH?
It slowly died on me yesterday.
Took the glass bowl fuel filter off and the paper cartridge was caked in rust. That must have been the problem. Cleaned it real good, no rips or tears. Cleaned surface it mounts to and reassembled. Now does not want to start straight away. When it does start (with throttle at full speed) it runs rough for 4-5-6-7 seconds and dies. It does get up to full 2500rpm, but then slowly dies. Runs for just that short time.

Could have some debris gotten into pump? Paper filter is intact. Could a spec of something gotten up to injector? Could the fuel pump solenoid be going bad (why would it start at all).

totally stumped.

Fuel pump is mounted is part of the main motor casting. Oil pump is mounted to that fuel pump casting. Not like it is something quick and easy to change.

Any ideas or input?

CooHead

 

[Peter 315]

Does the fuel flow out of the tank fast? Maybe the tank outlet is plugged with rust......

 

[Roadworthy]

Based on my experience with Mitsubishi tractors (fifteen years) if you break the fuel line you have to bleed the air from the system. On my tractor there were three bleed points and a sequence in which to accomplish the bleed. At the final bleed point I would let the fuel flow until all air bubbles quit. If you need a manual try Valley Power

 

[CooHead]

Yes Pete,
Fuel seems to flow out of tank good enough when the filter and glass (plastic) bowl are not there.

Encouraging Roadworthy post that there maybe a specific way to bleed the fuel system. My mechanic friend stopped by to help. He pointed out that "diesels don't like air". We tried to crack the hard lines at all three injectors and crank until fuel flowed. Never go it "flowing". So maybe some air is trapped down stream of that junction right there at the injectors.

I did take the lines off and blow them out. I even took the top of the fuel pump off seeing if I could see anything. That was a little frustrating as could not take the pumping mechanism out. So yes, I did introduce a LOT of air to the system.

But have a shop manual coming so maybe it will hint at what I have to do to properly purge air. Maybe it is a 2 or 3 or 4 step process. That is fine if it works. Any remembrance (Roadworthy) of the steps you took to bleed stage one two and three?

Thanks guys
Coo

 

[Roadworthy]

Diesels do like air, just not in the fuel lines. The Mitsubishi is gravity fed from the tank to the injector pump. Normally the first bleed port is right at the filter. This will ensure you have fuel that far. If you follow the fuel line up from there you'll find another just before or at the pump. I think the third one is at the back side of the pump - at least it was on my Mitsubishi. When you have it all bled be sure your air filter is clean. Diesels like a LOT of air for breathing. If it's not eighty degrees out glow plugs are a good idea, too. They do burn out from time to time and the ones on my Mitsubishi didn't go open, they shorted to ground.

 

[CooHead]

Thanks guys.

I did find the shop manual. It said same thing: If open up fuel system, must bleed out air"
It shows the two bleed screws right under the filter bowl. Opened them and fuel flows. The the bleed screw on the top of the pump casting, right under where the three hard lines go up to each injector. Cracked that and let fuel flow.

Tried it and it started a bit easier/quicker. Spooled up to 2000+ rpm, but then slowly lost RPM back down to zero. Dang, I was so excited.

Manual says can then crack open hard line right there where go to each injector and crank and bleed any air in those three hard lines. But the fact that it started and ran up to speed, twice, I would think any air in those three hard lines would be pushed out. Guess I could go try that though.

Another mechanical buddy with farm equipment said he will stop by after work. But I'd like to tell him I got it going by myself (using manual and TractorByNet).

Getting close???

Coo

 

[Peter 315]

Try cracking one line on the injector ,Then start it and let it run then tighten the line.......

 

[PILOON]

Thanks guys.

I did find the shop manual. It said same thing: If open up fuel system, must bleed out air"
It shows the two bleed screws right under the filter bowl. Opened them and fuel flows. The the bleed screw on the top of the pump casting, right under where the three hard lines go up to each injector. Cracked that and let fuel flow.

Tried it and it started a bit easier/quicker. Spooled up to 2000+ rpm, but then slowly lost RPM back down to zero. Dang, I was so excited.

Manual says can then crack open hard line right there where go to each injector and crank and bleed any air in those three hard lines. But the fact that it started and ran up to speed, twice, I would think any air in those three hard lines would be pushed out. Guess I could go try that though.

Another mechanical buddy with farm equipment said he will stop by after work. But I'd like to tell him I got it going by myself (using manual and TractorByNet).

Getting close???

Coo

Also own a 180D and had that experience more often than I'd like to admit.
As suggested, crack at least one injector line until it squirts, re attach and she should start (sputter a short while) and smooth out after a bit.

If she starts, sputters and dies again then try blowing air back into your fuel tank as a clogged screen might be a limiting factor.
Also be sure your fuel cap is allowing air to enter.

 

[CooHead]

OK Guys, I have more to try, thanks.

I did crack all three lines and cranked a good amount till fuel was coming out of all three.
Tightened it up and warmed glow plug and started at half throttle. Sure enough, now it runs. Runs rough. Wont idle.
As I was messing around whilst it was running I noticed if I flexed the 12" fuel line, it would change cadence. No wiggling it made it run smooth, but did change lope and rpm.
So back to auto parts store for a new fuel line.
Come on man, this has to work.
bleed upto the pump again and started. But still not smooth. Still wont idle.

Guess I should do the 3rd step of bleeding and crack the lines again.
But dangit, so close.

Fuel tank cap is loose so not making a vacuum. Air lines are off so not restricted air, gulping straight air at intake manifold.

The solenoid that fires the pump: I did loosen that and turn it out and back a bit. Would/should that matter how deep it is threaded into fuel pump casting? Guess I could mess with that again since I previously changed it.

Dangit, always ran so fine. Start right up and idle like a diesel. It does run now. Let it run at half throttle (rough) for over a minute. Thinking air has to be out of the system now, yes?

Thanks all.
Any more ideas or advice I am certainly open to and appreciative.

CooHead

 

[CooHead]

SUCCESS !!

Thanks a TON boyz. Tried this and that and realized the center injector was indeed not getting fuel. Was running on 1 & 3 so no wonder running rough and not idle.
Saw some leakage at the bottom of cyl #2 injector line. Tightened it up, purged air and runs smooth as did before. Probably better

So relieved and a bit proud of myself. Learned more about my tractor, deisel engines in general and how helpful the manual (and TractorByNet) can be

CooHead