Motor Guard plasma air filter

   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #1  

J_J

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Regarding the Motor Guard M-50 air filters, with the 623 element, has anyone used these filter assembly's for their filtration with plasma or painting? The replacements cost anywhere from $5 to $30 each. The question is, if there is moisture in the air from the tank, is there supposed to be another unit in front of the Motor Guard filter to remove the moisture. The point to make here is that if the Motor Guard filter is the only filter in the system, it looks like the paper element would absorb any water/oil, and clog up or cause the element to swell and block incoming air. It does have a water drain on the bottom. I don't have the instructions for this filter, and was thinking some of you might be using or have used it before, and do you think this is the best filter for plasma cutting? I tried a small desiccant filter but the blue crystals turned pink fairly quick.

Another option I was thinking of is that Harbor Freight pipe filter, about 36 in long and 2 in ID with the blue desiccant crystals. The replacement crystals are readily available. Has anyone used this assembly?

Desiccant Air Dryer
 

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   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #2  
I use the HF drier pictured...works great. I bought a spare charge of desiccant so if one charge is in the oven drying I can work with the other.
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #3  
JJ

Read the manual (online) on the dessicant dryer. You'll find it still needs a particulate filter.
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #5  
JJ sorry to change the subject here but I just wanted to squeeze in to say congrats on being the "Member of the Month". I've always enjoyed you posts and appreciated your knowledge. :thumbsup: Cheers, Paul
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #6  
Regarding the Motor Guard M-50 air filters, with the 623 element, has anyone used these filter assembly's for their filtration with plasma or painting?
Yes.

The replacements cost anywhere from $5 to $30 each.
There are other, cheaper "elements" that you could use ...... :rolleyes:

More on that in a moment ..... :D

The question is, if there is moisture in the air from the tank, is there supposed to be another unit in front of the Motor Guard filter to remove the moisture.
I dunno about "supposed to be" ...... but I have a Schrader filter/water separator installed on my shop air line, after it comes off the compressor .... I'm sure it helps to keep the M/G cleaner (and drier) ....

The point to make here is that if the Motor Guard filter is the only filter in the system, it looks like the paper element would absorb any water/oil,
That's absolutely the general idea ..... ;)

and clog up or cause the element to swell and block incoming air.
I think that it would take quite a bit to actually "clog" them up .....

I'm fairly certain that water or oil wouldn't do it .... :D

Although the issue that you would likely run into is the filter becoming so saturated that it passes some small amount of moisture or oil ..... which, of course, would be a bad thing for a plasma ....

It does have a water drain on the bottom.
Huh ?

Water drain on an M-50 ? ..... don't think so .... :confused2:

I don't have the instructions for this filter, and was thinking some of you might be using or have used it before, and do you think this is the best filter for plasma cutting?
For the money, a Motor Guard M-50 is hard to beat .....

I actually own three of 'em ..... one is stock, and is used on my plasma cutter .......

The other two are specially modified for a slightly different purpose :D ..... bypass fluid filtration ..... I use one to filter motor oil and the other to filter automatic transmission fluid, on my Dodge Sprinter van.

I've also seen them used as a coolant (antifreeze) filter on vehicles ...

Back when the founders of Motor Guard were actually involved in the business they used to sell and promote the filters for this purpose (oil filtration) .... the current management frowns on the idea .... must be all "the filtering oil with toilet paper" jokes and ribbing ....

I've used a variety of different "filter media" with the two that I'm using for bypass fluid filtration ..... you would likely be familiar with these other brands of "filter media" when used for a different purpose (ie. blowing your nose or wiping your hiney :laughing:) ...

Scott 1000 single-ply is pretty good ..... about 70 or 80 cents per roll at Walmart .....

What you want is a roll that is dense and very tightly wrapped ...... the stuff you know as "cheap TP" that feels about like sandpaper when you wipe is great ..... avoid the "floofy" stuff the wife buys .... not dense enough and not usually tightly wrapped ....

Those brown paper towels you find in wash rooms would be absolutely great .... but they're not made in the correct size .... too big of a pain (and too much waste) to unroll and cut them down to the correct size.

BTW, longest run on my Sprinter's oil sump using the Motor Guard/TP filter was over 50,000 miles on before complete change out (using Mobil 1 0w40 Synthetic) .... oil was still good and could have gone longer :thumbsup: (according to Blackstone Labs)

On the filter used for the engine oil, I usually changed out the filter "elements" every 3K to 5K miles (diesels being very dirty) and added a little make up oil (1/2 quart) ..... on the one for the transmission, I ran the element until I changed it .... usually somewhere between 60K and 80K miles ;)
 

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   / Motor Guard plasma air filter
  • Thread Starter
#7  
rswyan,

Thanks, that was very informative. This is the kind of post /answer that a person would like to receive. Informative with actual use and experiences. Thanks again.

So I am thinking, a water separator first after the tank, then the desiccant filter, and then a particulate filter.
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #8  
Thanks, that was very informative. This is the kind of post /answer that a person would like to receive. Informative with actual use and experiences. Thanks again.
JJ,

You're quite welcome - glad to be of service. ;)

So I am thinking, a water separator first after the tank, then the desiccant filter, and then a particulate filter.
The M/G will act as a desiccant, by virtue of the fact that a dry element (made from wood pulp) will absorb water - up to a point - that point being where the filter's ability to capture additional moisture is diminished by what it already holds. I'd imagine that this is true of any desiccant filter, and probably why M/G recommends changing them as often as they do.

Absolutely nothing wrong with your plan - for me it would be a cost vs. performance issue: which element, acting as a desiccant, can I replace the cheapest ?

(70 cents for a roll of TP is pretty cheap ..... ;))

No experience with the HF unit, but reading the manual they say to "replace the desiccant every 6 months, or as needed depending on use" ....

Desiccant cost is $5 ..... and every six months wouldn't be bad ...... but ......

Considering where you live, you might have to replace it more often ...... :D

Having said that, also considering where you live, having both might be a very good idea :thumbsup:
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #9  
Here are some pictures of the air dryer I built for my plasma, also use it for painting. ;)

50-feet.jpg

Intercooler.jpg

Temptest.jpg

Aftercooler.jpg

Temptest2.jpg
 
   / Motor Guard plasma air filter #10  
Shield ARC!!
I'm from GA. I can recognize a cleverly disguised still when I see one!!!:laughing:
 

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