My Industrial Cabin Build

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groundcover

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southwest NH
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I always run second line back to the well to have a hose bib available, you already have the ditch so why not ! Always comes in handy.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,482  

Xfaxman

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Guthrie, OK
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Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
Also, i need to install two frost proof yard hydrants. Doing this myself is a pain but it also means I know how to fix it later on if something goes south.
This style is the best frost proof hydrant that I have ever had: Baker Water Systems - Monitor® Magnum Yard Hydrant

The water valve works just like a hydraulic spool valve. And after the hydrant is installed the handle can be rotated to any position desired then held there with the set screw.

monitor-magnum-frost-proof-hydrant-installation-diagram-913x1024.gif
hydrant.JPG
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
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WoodChuckDad

WoodChuckDad

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Free Union, VA
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Kioti RX7320 Power Shuttle Cab, Komatsu PC130-6
I always run second line back to the well to have a hose bib available, you already have the ditch so why not ! Always comes in handy.

You run a second line from the house back to the well? Why would you not install the yard hydrant inline? In my case this is over 200 feet from the house. Trivial if done now during initial install, but why?
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,484  

Ford850

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Case DX55, Ford 850
Where will your expansion tank and pressure switch be located? Your hydrant will need to be after that.
 
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WoodChuckDad

WoodChuckDad

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Tank will be in the house. I have seen them set up on the well line before the tank. Is that no longer acceptable? Was that just a “country solution”.
 
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Ford850

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Maybe without check valves that could work. I haven't see that, but that's not saying much :D
 
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Xfaxman

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When I installed the cycle stop valve and pressure tank where we lived before moving in 2019, I used an underground box with the hydrant at the well:

PA280003.JPG

The light at the upper left comes on when the pump runs.


PA280008.JPG
PA200004.JPG
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,488  

gary49

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free union, va
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Fordson Super Dexta, John Deere 2240, MF 1240, 2003 Simplicity Conquest
A nut or any kind of weight on a string works. You can hear very clearly when it hits water. Then just pull it out and measure. I’ll bet it’s not more than 50’ down. 30 gpm is way more than you’ll need or want to buy a pump for ($$$$). On a well that productive, I’d consider setting the pump so there’s 50’ or so of water over it and call it good. Makes it easier and cheaper to install and repair and you’ll never run it dry with a 3/4 hp pump. Drillers Service has the 250# poly in 100’ increments. Just use 1” pipe for both the drop pipe and the underground lateral piping. There are tables that are in the pump catalogs that will tell you what wire size to use for a given horsepower pump up to a max distance. I wouldn’t be concerned so much about using a Grundfos or Goulds pump. Just get one with a Franklin motor. I pulled one out a couple of years ago, an Aermotor, IIRC that had only quit because the torque arrestor had fallen apart and the drop wire chafed through that was I had put in 35 years previously. Client had raised 5 kids, 4 of them daughters in that time, so I’m sure it had pumped a lot of water. The pump in my own well is a Red Jacket and it’s about 25 years old. Both pumps have Franklin motors, although Aermotor now uses a Pentek motor. I’d probably put in a 3/4 hp 10-12gpm pump for your well if it were mine. Cable will probably end up being 10 gauge, you’ll want submersible pump cable down the well, and UF cable in the trench. The threaded opening in your well cap is for conduit, it should be 1” electrical conduit, with a glued on terminal adapter at each end, add a plastic bushing at the bottom where the UF cable enters. If you’re a bit paranoid about losing the pump down the well, buy some pump rope and attach it to the pump, add an eyebolt to the top of the casing to tie it to. Do use a rubber torque arrestor on top of the pump, and add 6-10 cable guards about 10’ apart above that on the drop pipe. I’ve never had any real problems with the cable chafing with that setup. Don’t spread the diameter of the torque arrestor so much that it’s tight in the bore and tighten the hose clamps that hold it firmly, you don’t want it to get stuck down in the well. Good luck! There are a lot of details that matter in doing a good install even though the job is conceptually pretty simple.
 
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WoodChuckDad

WoodChuckDad

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Client had raised 5 kids, 4 of them daughters in that time, so I’m sure it had pumped a lot of water. C.

That made me laugh. I’ve raised two daughters and 3 boys and had 4 wives so I know how much water they use. Some of the boys would get in the shower and run a 40 gallon water heater cold.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,490  

Steppenwolfe

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The Blue Ridge Mountains
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Kubota MX5400, 1140 RTV
I was hoping more along the lines of lowering something down. I have a 300 foot tape that I could put a weight on but I’m not sure how I would know when it hit water. I could put a float above the weight I guess.
My driller tied a plastic soda bottle with a little sand in it to a tape measure to find the well head. Mine was only 35ft down... lot's of water in that casing.
 
 
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