My Satoh ohh Satoh

   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #11  
Yes I am loosing the term loosely. Simple facts is the exhaust smells like raw fuel. For the 4 hours it ran with the new coil it was not like that. This tractor has seen mods through the years. The old guy I bought it from reconditions tractors and sells them. The resistor definitely may not be factory, and it is acting weird. When I ohm it out it just jumps from 1.5 ohm to infinity. My meter does not like it. The resistor that is on it looks like a coil of wire with brown lacquer coating. When I did the ignition tune up not 100 hours ago I did not replace the resistor. I replaced points, plugs / wires, and coil. I am pretty sure it all came in a kit and I just connected the new coil to this resistor. I took the resistor out of line just to test and the new coil is hitting hard again, but it is not running right. That being said I think the damage is done.
Where is this resistor in the wire schematic?

Is the resistor color coded to understand it's value?

Additionally, the cap and rotor on the tractor, are the contacts brass or aluminum? If aluminum contacts, those tend to corrode or fuzz up in as little as several hours with lots of aluminum oxide. When this happens, things get hot. Additionally, the aluminum oxide will destroy the points by causing arcing.
 
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   / My Satoh ohh Satoh
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Where is this resistor in the wire schematic?

Is the resistor color coded to understand it's value?

Additionally, the cap and rotor on the tractor, are the contacts brass or aluminum? If aluminum contacts, those tend to corrode or fuzz up in as little as several hours with lots of aluminum oxide. When this happens, things get hot. Additionally, the aluminum oxide will destroy the points by causing arcing.
20250126_162709.jpg

This is the ballast resistor installed on this tractor. I do not recall ever seeing one like this, but it worked for a long time. One side is connected to the + side of the coil and the other lead drops to the alternator and connects into the charging wire going back to the positive terminal of the battery.
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #13  
View attachment 2381585
This is the ballast resistor installed on this tractor. I do not recall ever seeing one like this, but it worked for a long time. One side is connected to the + side of the coil and the other lead drops to the alternator and connects into the charging wire going back to the positive terminal of the battery.
WOW :eek::eek::eek:

Mitsubishi-Satoh machines having a coil with no ballast resistor would be 3 to 4 ohms.
IF you placed in a coil that is for NOT having an external ballast resistor, then that coil will get HOT with that odd looking resistor there.

If you used the correct ignition coil per the parts catalog, Satoh 0180030, or the Mazda 0710-18-100 with no external ballast resistor required.

So yeah, your ignition system is jacked up.
1738032614943.png
 
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   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #14  
This is the correct coil for your Mazda engine, for 0710-18-100,
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh
  • Thread Starter
#15  
WOW :eek::eek::eek:

Mitsubishi-Satoh machines having a coil with no ballast resistor would be 3 to 4 ohms.
IF you placed in a coil that is for NOT having an external ballast resistor, then that coil will get HOT with that odd looking resistor there.

If you used the correct ignition coil per the parts catalog, Satoh 0180030, or the Mazda 0710-18-100 with no external ballast resistor required.

So yeah, your ignition system is jacked up.
View attachment 2386932
That is what I thought. It is why the tune up kit failed. This entire time I have been chasing a carb issue.The question is why i have gotten years of service from this tractor until the mods failed.
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #16  
That is what I thought. It is why the tune up kit failed. This entire time I have been chasing a carb issue.The question is why i have gotten years of service from this tractor until the mods failed.
possibly the ugly looking ballast resistor went bad with high impedance and is playing havoc with your machine now.
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Ummm can anyone explain to me why my points are sparking with the distributor cap off?
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #18  
Ummm can anyone explain to me why my points are sparking with the distributor cap off?
I wish I could be of more assistance. I usually work on diesels. We don't have those things.
Diesel engines have 200 less parts than a gasoline engine and life is so much simpler. (y)

I would suggest using the electrical schematics and go thru the entire tractor to restore it to the OE original way. Sounds like a short or ground or something not OE in the electrical/charging system.

Go back to post-9 and review all the documents on the Satoh S55G website.
 
   / My Satoh ohh Satoh
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Ok here is where I am at. I did find out the points will spark with distributor cap off. At least that is what Ive been told. I gaped points to spec, checked plug gaps,changed coil, had to adjust idle air screw it was off, had to adjust distributor position, and I treated the oil with head gasket repair. Ohh and I had to change choke cable, and a coolant hose that went bad beside distributor position bolt. She is idling a little rough but is running with choke open now.
She is clearing up the more i let it run. My guess is it needs a new head gasket.
She idles fine but under load I am having to run it on half choke.
 
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   / My Satoh ohh Satoh #20  
Ok here is where I am at. I did find out the points will spark with distributor cap off. At least that is what Ive been told. I gaped points to spec, checked plug gaps,changed coil, had to adjust idle air screw it was off, had to adjust distributor position, and I treated the oil with head gasket repair. Ohh and I had to change choke cable, and a coolant hose that went bad beside distributor position bolt. She is idling a little rough but is running with choke open now.
She is clearing up the more i let it run. My guess is it needs a new head gasket.
She idles fine but under load I am having to run it on half choke.
If needing new head gasket, you can try this in the cooling system. It is a 50/50 chance it will fix the head gasket leak.

When the coolant gets to the head and air is nearby at hot temps, the kevlar will fill the leaking void. Thus it will seal the blowby. It's like repairing the head gasket with new fibers, just way better with kevlar!

P-Asian.JPG
 

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