Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy.

[Woodfarmer]

I’d recommend the Husky 565, smooth and has plenty of power for what you’ll need. Get a 20” and 24” versacut light bars and your all set.

 

[Zetorboy]

Good advise Doughknob.
N80. Watchout! You are going directly into…..trouble! Luke you said, yoo are not a a chainsaw man nor you are not in good shape!
WOW! And you want to cut big big big tree!
N80- start to get in shape and ask the help of … your son or inlaw! Be carefull. This is a dangerous work to do lunberjack job and manipulating the most dangerous tool there is, a chain saw! I have been doing wood cutting for 13 years now on my woodland, It is a dangerous job. N80-Take care! Good luck!
Zetorboy

 

[DutchInNZ]

When I bought this property here 10 years ago, one of my neighbours had 5 chain saws and he gave me two of them for free, a 2ci/30cc 16" Poulan and a 2.75ci/45CC 18" Homelite. Me being Dutch, that made me like the guy very much. The Poulan does not have a brake so I know where preferably not to cut, but even cutting with the tip does not require a noticeable extra effort, if the chain is kept sharp.

Although the Homelite was only used twice, he gave it to me because it did cut badly and after a minute or so started smoking as hell. I took it apart and it was immediately obvious: the brake did not release. I checked on the internet and found that Homelite overdid the security; one just had to shorten the spring by one turn and the brake came free. Did that and presto, the thing runs and pulls like hell. The original chain was first class crap too, so I threw that one away and got full chisel for both, brandless from the roll at the local hardware shop, and a new blade for the Poulan because the old one was bent and cut in circles.

I fell four trees each year, hardwood or pine, 20 - 30", whatever stands in the way. The felling and cutting up of the thicker pieces I do with the Homelite, the rest with the Poulan that has a tad more bite. Splitting is done with an axe; takes some time but keeps me fit. Don't ask for my comments while I am actually doing the splitting, though.

As the Poulan does more work, I need a new chain each 2-4 years (abt US$20), dependent on the type of wood; the Homelite lasts longer. It all works perfectly for me this way. I am 75 now, a sad fact which makes me shave nowadays without looking in the mirror.

One last remark re. Amazon: Here the mentality seems to be a lot different. A quick phone call gives me local availability and price, and if the latter is obviously too high, pointing that out practically always remedies it. Availability neither is much of a problem, as long as what you want is somewhere in the country and can be delivered to the shop in one or two days.

 

[mark48]

I don’t think Stihl sells on Amazon, at least not the actual saws.

Chains? I wish I could point out the exact link but I think I saw the video on here. The guy tested a bunch of chains in a very scientific way. For example a carbide chain really wasn’t that great compared to others, I think it was actually the slowest cutting out of the box. In one of the tests he ran the saw in sand and dulled them all. The carbide one was the only one that still cut worth a darn. I remember Stihl chains were really good but maybe dulled a little easier.

I haven't seen that post..all I can say is that cutting for over 40 years...nothing beats carbide, hands down best chain for all hardwoods

 

[N80]

I remember from racing, people trying to use horsepower to make up for lack of ability.
Nothing wrong with deciding to buy a pro-style saw but your saw should not have any trouble doing the work you describe.

Good points.

It is not that the saw makes it impossible to do the job. I am not an experienced feller but each of these pines I cut with perfect hinges and each one fell exactly where I wanted it to. The chain is well used but it was sharp. The point was that the work was harder than it needed to be. And when bucking large (dry) blow down oaks that are more than 20" in diameter the chain gets dull real fast. And even when sharp the saw is struggling.

So yes, it is a good saw. And yes, it does what it is intended to do pretty well. But the Farm Boss series are not pro level saws or anything close. As mentioned they are for "occasional use". In terms of build quality it is not any better and in some ways worse than my old home owner 025. Not knocking the Farm Boss. Up until now it has performed as advertised. Struggling with a few big firewood oaks is no big deal.

 

[Budweiser John]

I am a few years older than you and have been clearing an acre of dense woods this past summer with maple, oak, and pine.
I have 20" Husqvarna so I have been doing similar work with similar equipment.
This isn't what you asked for but this may fix part your problem if you haven't used one before.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HY96EW8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View attachment 720815

I can do it while on the bar, it is fast and accurate.
I keep a small vise mounted on a table to clamp the bar and it takes maybe 5 minutes.
I make about 4 strokes per tooth and it is as good or better than new.
I saw a noticeable difference in how much I could do in a day,

Others can help you pick out a chain saw but I would recommend getting this to help with fatique.
Hope this helps.

I will add my endorsement to the Stihl easy sharpener.
I also own a Oregon chain grinder but find the Stihl easy sharpener to do a superior job with out having to remove the chain from the bar and fiddle with setting up the grinder.
B. John

 

[alfie0077]

Forget the power. Keep the blade sharp and you will be happy.
Harbor freight has a power sharpener for about $30. remove the blade and it does a nice quick job of sharpening.

 

[N80]

Forget the power. Keep the blade sharp and you will be happy.
Harbor freight has a power sharpener for about $30. remove the blade and it does a nice quick job of sharpening.

The blade has been sharp. That is not the issue.

 

[N80]

I will add my endorsement to the Stihl easy sharpener.
I also own a Oregon chain grinder but find the Stihl easy sharpener to do a superior job with out having to remove the chain from the bar and fiddle with setting up the grinder.
B. John

Yep. I uses after each use of the saw and occasionally during the same job.

 

[N80]

Are you using a green or yellow chain? Yellow is more aggressive.

No yellow Stihl chains are made for this model.