need help identifying friction clutch

[ning]

The friction discs in the clutch for my tiller don't look like they're all there (they're fractured and missing chunks).
I'm not surprised, as I bought it at auction ~5 years ago and while it was unused then, it had clearly been left in the weather, as I've done since I've had it.
As of yesterday, the clutch function was still working (as in, tiller tilled until it hit huge rocks, then it didn't till, without destroying my pto).

How do you go about identifying what plates to look for in replacement?
Ideally this would be possible without taking it apart, since I may still get some use out of it while the new discs are in shipment.

Also, is it a normal thing that the u-joint yoke is integrated into the clutch?

 

[TractorTech]

It is metric friction clutch; Bondioli Pavesi or Walterscheid.
Measure the size of the cross caps and the width across the cross caps in metric to determine what series drive shaft you have. The you can look up the friction plates that way.

 

[ning]

From what I can tell, the clutch on the attachment (tiller) end has an outer plate that may exist just to put even pressure on the friction disc of its side.

One disc is just a ring that appears to be 9/64" thick, no more than 3½"ID and 5½"OD but likely 1/16" less. There's not enough disc fragments left to accurately measure them so I'm going by markings on the metal disc.

The other disc looks it probably originally resembled the top of a 1950's UFO with a ring that sat inside the recess on the tractor side of the clutch.

 

[TractorTech]

Take a look at the catalog starting page 183 for metric clutch setups.

If I were to guess, I would say it was a series 4,
but hard to say with just pictures

https://www.weasler.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Weasler_Aftmrkt_Catalog21_09-14.pdf

 

[ning]

It is metric friction clutch; Bondioli Pavesi or Walterscheid.
Measure the size of the cross caps and the width across the cross caps in metric to determine what series drive shaft you have. The you can look up the friction plates that way.

I guess the "cap" that I saw is a bushing (#4 in drawing).

I measured 85x138, so I guess that's 85x140 here.

 

[ning]

Take a look at the catalog starting page 183 for metric clutch setups.

If I were to guess, I would say it was a series 4,
but hard to say with just pictures

https://www.weasler.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Weasler_Aftmrkt_Catalog21_09-14.pdf

Thanks, I'll look at that tonight on my bigger screen

 

[TractorTech]

I guess the "cap" that I saw is a bushing (#4 in drawing).

I measured 85x138, so I guess that's 85x140 here.View attachment 801892View attachment 801893

The “caps” I was referring to are on the driveline crosses themselves, but just to replace the friction components, you probably have enough info in the disc section

 

[ning]

I found the PTO shaft profile in the Walterscheid literature - S4LH here:

Best I can find on the Walterscheid site, my clutch is similar to the K90 range (example; another good link) - 6 springs.
All of the K90 clutches have under the "spare parts/accessories" heading the same friction disk K 92 - 1168556 which states "91X150X3", most likely ID=91mm, OD=150mm, thickness=3mm. From what I can tell, my former disks were about 85x140x3.5.

However everything else about my clutch is much more similar to the B&P FF1 (diagram).
The last concern I have at the moment is that it appears that my clutch had at least a bushing like in the FF1 diagram:
and it looks like it may or may not have been attached to something else; it fits over the protrusion of the hub, but it's not just a bushing like in the FF1 in that it's not merely a ring - it goes over the end of the hub as well as being over the step in the hub - at least it looks like there are hardened remains of a melted version of this "bushing"-like thing there

I can probably buy whatever 85x140 disc for the primary purpose here, but I'm concerned about this bushing thing.

The FF1 bushing looks suspiciously metal on this page. I suppose I could try this bushing and see if it all goes together and works; I'm not sure what my alternative is (other than potentially replace the whole clutch and possibly pto shaft).

 

[ning]

I cleaned up the metal parts, got the FF1 bushing and a couple 85x140mm discs. Fits together perfectly.

Put it together, spun it up, put the tiller in the ground, spun it, tightened, repeated until no slip tilling reasonable ground.

Bushing cost $14 and two came; friction discs were $11 each, plus a bit for shipping - $55 total. I'm going to buy some extra discs now that I'm certain of the size just as insurance. Very happy!

Hub, cleaned up with bushing lightly pressed into place (fits snugly without requiring much force to emplace) and one friction disc:

Reassembled clutch in driveline:

Final product, new area tilled. Will add a few buckets of soil from my compost pile then wife is planting summer greens garden here (lettuce grown in full sun at our place in the hot summer tastes bad - too hot too sunny - partial shade works great in the summer for it):

Footsteps are from me looking for rocks; I have almost a full bucket of rocks pulled from the freshly tilled dirt (I tilled for 15-30 seconds, got off and collected rocks, repeat), ranging from one to twenty pounds... the tiller broke most of the bigger ones.

 

[ruffdog]

Good job!