I moved the top link as Jeff suggested but it made no difference. Had a pause while I fitted a Quick Hitch system. It gives me another 4" length on the lift arms. It also put more angle on the tooth.
I strapped a bag of cement onto the top of the ripper and it made a big difference. It could use a little more weight but it is working a lot better. I managed to get it deep enough to rip some large roots around a stump that I hadn't been able to shift and once I pulled them up the stump gave in and toppled. Thanks for the suggestions. Problem solved.
Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson)
As far as which hole to use for the top link on your tractor there are a couple of variables.
Read your manual for some idea of which to use.
Also "if" your tractor is equipped with draft control your manual will provide the information if one position is more sensitive for the draft control then the other. Most of the smaller draft control equipped tractors sense the pull on the top link bracket.
In the case of the ripper it may be flattening the shoe out at it's designed depth,
one way to check that is to back over a ditch or hole and lower the ripper down to the desired depth and view the angle of attack at that level.
Exactly! I often see stuff like that sitting on sidewalks that folks are trying to get rid of so I will grab some one day. 30 - 40 kg would be just right. I only have 20 kg at the moment but it is working.