Need recommendation for new metal primer

[Spudland_Dave]

On the new metal of my Power Rake build I used a Nason (DuPont) Self Etching Primer...Worked awesome and didnt break the bank...
Prep work consisted of wiping all oily residue off the steel with Lacquer Thinner, spray the Self Etch Primer, then Shoot the color coat 30 mins later.

 

[swines]

If it's clean metal, you need a self-etching primer. I use materials from the Eastwood Company, they make a lot of automotive primers, rust conversion materials, and rust preventative materials.

Self Etching Primer

 

[DEON]

The first time I run across epoxy primer was when I purchased used metal from a machine shop. It had been left outside to rust for quite some time. Every inch was rusted except one section that was painted grey.
I asked what kind of paint that was. It was epoxy primer that had been spray over new mild steel. It didn't look like any special prep was done as I could not see any signs of sandblasting at the feathered edge of the paint. I kept the steel parts outside for another 10 years and it held up well. If that metal had been top coated with paint, it would even be better. I have since used PPG epoxy primer and love the way it covers and fills imperfections so I can paint over it with nice results. This summer I refinished 4 aluminum VW Jetta wheels with 1 thin coat zinc chromate primer, 2 thick coats PPG epoxy primer, enamel paint and clearcoat to finish. I found a rock ship on one of the wheels the other day but the epoxy primer is still there to protect the aluminum.

 

[radioman]

I buy the valspar primer and tractor implament paint at TSC and spray it .Ive had good results on my projects,seems durable

ALAN

yeah , same here. I use the oil based primer from TSC, however I also add the hardener stuff in my primer and mix and air spray it on. I use the same hardener in my implement color paint from TSC too. So far I haven't had a scratch in the paint yet, and its on my snowplow I mounted on the FEL. This winter will tell on how well it stands up.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

The first time I run across epoxy primer was when I purchased used metal from a machine shop. It had been left outside to rust for quite some time. Every inch was rusted except one section that was painted grey.
I asked what kind of paint that was. It was epoxy primer that had been spray over new mild steel. It didn't look like any special prep was done as I could not see any signs of sandblasting at the feathered edge of the paint. I kept the steel parts outside for another 10 years and it held up well. If that metal had been top coated with paint, it would even be better. I have since used PPG epoxy primer and love the way it covers and fills imperfections so I can paint over it with nice results. This summer I refinished 4 aluminum VW Jetta wheels with 1 thin coat zinc chromate primer, 2 thick coats PPG epoxy primer, enamel paint and clearcoat to finish. I found a rock ship on one of the wheels the other day but the epoxy primer is still there to protect the aluminum.

Gonna have to agree with you on the epoxy....But after I recovered from sticker shock, I decided to go with the self etch primer..

One Q for you....I was told and have read that with epoxy primers you just shoot straight to steel...no need for the Zinc Chromate?

 

[RedDirt]

I used Nason when I repainted my 63 Power Wagon and was pleased with the results. I may try and find a local dealer to try their self etching primer. Thanks

Also thanks for the Eastwood lead. Went to site, product looked good and affordable. Alas not available in CA due to new CA VOC limits.

I've used the Valspar primer from TSC but I did not use the hardener and I was not pleased with the durability. Who knows, could have been my prep.

The PPG products and epoxies seem to be the ultimate solution for fine and durable finishes but cost more than I want to invest for a tractor implement finish.

 

[radioman]

as my final prep, I used paint thinner to clean the surface before spraying the primer. What did you do?

 

[SPIKER]

One of the main reasons for not using beach sand and or silica play sand is the silica will leave a residue that does not come of very easy and prevent the paint from sticking as well. there are also fine bits of the sand left on/in the metal that will eventually come loose and cause the paint above to also come off. Even when sand blasting you need to clean off any oils that may be there as the sand will push the oils into the metal and also cause paint adhesion problems.

Please note that the veslpar paints at TSC work well for me, the hardener is a key but requires more breathing care as the hardner is very toxic in the lungs and will cause the paint to burn into and seal into the lungs. Had a friend form my autobody class end up with severe health issues when he sprayed a tank outside and didnt use proper protection the thought he said was he was outside and had forgotten his good mask... almost killed himself for lack of a mask...


Metal PREP is the most important step when painting ...

the if you go to a paint shop look for a bare metal prep that contains the phosphoric acid. use it liberally and pay close attention to the directions. One thing I have used for small rusty metal items is a electrolytic chemical rust removal. (no links on this PC new laptop.) which uses boron washing power and a battery charger, works great on stuff that is rough surface or intricate details capture the rust. I have treated several items this way to acheive great results removing heavy rust in hard to reach areas....

TSP (tri-Sodium Phosphate ) works great as a metal prep to, it works to clean off stuff that is on top of the steel such as grime dirt and also helps to etch it but is rather weak in the phosphate side...

There are a few companies that sell smaller quantities of phosphoric etching cleaners but usually on the industrial side look to spend 100+ for a 5 gallon can if there is a local company handle it..
Mark

 

[Bill_C]

The REAL reason not to use beach sand or playground sand: this is regular old quartz sand. The kind that causes silicosis (white lung). The fine powder will settle in your lungs if you inhale it, and once its in your lungs...it doesn't leave.

Glass bead media, while it still shouldn't be inhaled, is supposedly less likely to turn into the fine pwder that causes silicosis.

 

[Bill_C]

Oh, I bead blast to bare metal if possible, then I wipe down the metal with acetone before applying the primer. Seems to help.