Need some advise, cutting a block wall to install a door........

[ddbackhoe]

Not ****.....maybe a bit overkill......but hard to even say that about good solid construction.




Given there does seem to be some pressure from above that may have cracked the window, you might want to get at least a vertical stud beside the wall and as much of a wood header above the proposed door as you can get for some reassurance, but yeah, other than that cut out below and whatever you have to do to get it in.

Maybe overkill and **** but I would put in some bracing/jack studs before knocking anything out. Hard to tell from the picture if the porch roof and deck load is being transferred onto the front wall.

 

[jfh28]

as others have said it all depends on if it is load bearing or not......so you need to determine how the loads from above are being transferred down......if there aren't any then it just needs to carry the wall load above and ancillary floor and roof loads as well as perpendicular wind loads on the wall.......if you are on a lake that could be something to look into.......that is a fairly easy calculation for a structural engineer to figure out for you.......I definitely do not like the single stud supporting the header especially for a door.......should be doubled at a minimum.......personally I like your method that it should have been a masonry lintel......like materials in a wall always work better and tie things together.......and make sure they did not run any masonry on top of the wood lintel.....if they did then that changes everything......Jack

 

[MotorSeven]

Maybe overkill and **** but I would put in some bracing/jack studs before knocking anything out. Hard to tell from the picture if the porch roof and deck load is being transferred onto the front wall.

Will do, all the other member suggestions are appreciated. Going to tackle it on monday.....will update then!

 

[Stimw]

I would fabricate a metal lintel and extend it into the concrete block wall.
The concrete fit up and finish work would be very simple.

 

[MotorSeven]

I am still kicking that around. The only problem is the time it will take to weld it all up and get it installed.....meanwhile there will be a huge hole in the wall....lol.

 

[GLyford]

I replaced a 6' sliding door with a swing door and a smaller sash window. Inspector was fine with using the existing door header across the combined opening.

It looks like your existing header is supported with jack studs to make the rough opening. As long as whatever header you end up with is also supported, I don't see a problem with what you propose. One or two addition jack studs between the door and window would not be an issue. I will dig to see if I can find my framing pics.

 

[GLyford]

Rough frame...

Note fill-in section to the left of the door. Also, the inspector was fine with removing 1/2" from the bottom edge of the header because the new door RO was that much taller than the slider. Wall plate rests directly on the header (7'8" walls) so there wasn't room to move it higher.

Trimmed out, went with a victorianesque style because it amused me.


Opening at bottom right is for a dog door. The end of the counter laps over the dog door a fraction.


Other end of the same wall we replaced a double window (much like yours) with a 5' french door, which leads out to an enclosed porch. While I would hesitate to use a french door on an actual outside wall since they have a reputation for not sealing well, there is another layer of windows and door (in fact, the same slider we removed above, since it wasn't that old). On very windy days, there is still a draft, so it seems ours are meeting expectations.

 

[GLyford]

Oh, and two studs between the door and window meant that there was the exact correct amount of space for the trim to fit back-to-back with a 1/4" reveal, though if you only had room for one you could go with a flat or other profile for that section. With your existing opening, I suspect you could use thinner spacers (or even shims) between your jack studs and blocks to get a bit more room if you need it. I am sure you've already thought of that.

 

[PILOON]

Bit off topic but,
Once I had to install a door and frame in a cinder block wall.
Attaching the door frame was a problem as ramset nails wold split the blocks and concrete screws were very 'touch and go' to say the least.
I then got a brain wave,
I placed the frame as plumb as possible and use a few tins of spray insulation foam to 'glue' the frame in place.
That was 12 years ago ant that door frame still is just great.

One caution is to firmly brace the frame width wise as that foam exerts a lot of pressure until it is fully cured.

 

[aczlan]

Bit off topic but,
Once I had to install a door and frame in a cinder block wall.
Attaching the door frame was a problem as ramset nails wold split the blocks and concrete screws were very 'touch and go' to say the least.
I then got a brain wave,
I placed the frame as plumb as possible and use a few tins of spray insulation foam to 'glue' the frame in place.
That was 12 years ago ant that door frame still is just great.

One caution is to firmly brace the frame width wise as that foam exerts a lot of pressure until it is fully cured.

They now make a low expansion "gaps and cracks" sprayfoam just for that purpose. That is what they used when they replaced our windows. 4 screws to hold it still and sprayfoam all around to lock it in place.

Aaron Z