New garage time!

   #1  

fatjay

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I'm about to get started on my new garage. It's going to be 24x44x35, interior finished and heated. I'm doing 24" wide by 36" deep footers, then 2 block up. On the 2 block will be 10' 2x8's making the first floor 12' high for a 2 post and 4 post lift. 2nd floor will have 14" manufacturered floor joists and 8' ceiling, 3rd floor will have 14" manufacturered floor joists and scissor trusses giving vaulted ceiling. I'll have a metal shop on the 2nd floor and an office for work, 3rd floor will be used half for storage and half for a man cave with bay window looking out over my property.

2 8x10' doors in the front, on the side will have 2 man doors. all 3 floors will have radiant floor heating, I haven't figured out how I'm going to heat the water yet though. Going between floors will have a 5x8' elevator. 2 windows per floor on the side and 2 windows on the front on 2nd and 3rd floor.

I have a friend who is a contractor and will be doing the bulk of the work but i'll be on site to help. I'm doing the excavation myself with my 1953 Oliver backhoe, old girl is still kicking and never misses a beat.
 
   #2  

shovelmike

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It looks like that will be a very nice shop, keep us posted...we love pictures.
 
  
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fatjay

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Shed needed to move as I needed to bust up the concrete that the shed was on. since it overlapped 4' where the garage is going to go. Then busted up concrete with my HF jack hammer. And hauled it away with the bobcat. Since I've started the project I bought a bobcat, built pallet forks for it, bought a ditch witch, and a 24" backhoe bucket. New garage means new toys to build it.

Had to take down the kids swingset that I build 12 years ago. Was kind of sad to see it go but they are in high school and haven't used it in years.

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   #4  

Gary Fowler

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I would make it 28' wide so you can have two 12' wide doors with one foot clearance on each side with 2 feet in the middle. that extra 2 feet make a world of difference when getting things in and out without scraping the mirrows or dinging the walls.
 
  
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fatjay

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My contractor keeps saying that but when looking at the front I don't want the garage to overlap with the house, and it adds complications with the ceiling joists. I don't want a pole in the middle supporting and I don't want to deal with I beams, 24' wide is as wide as i can get with the 14" ceiling joists.
 
   #6  

EddieWalker

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I'm about to get started on my new garage. It's going to be 24x44x35,

When I read your dimensions, I couldn't wrap my head around that last number. No way is it going to be 35 feet tall, but then when you said it's going to have 3 levels, I got excited to follow your progress!!!! That's going to be amazing. Are you afraid of heights at all? Will you be doing any of the work on those eaves that high up? I always rent a lift for stuff like that, there is a point when I just get too scared to go any higher on a ladder and I freeze up and can't function. With a lift, it's better and I can get things done, but only if I have room to get the lift where I need it.
 
  
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fatjay

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The plan is 35' high. The township put in restrictions for me to be 26' high while the zoning regulation is 35' high. I have a lawyer currently handling that, but he said there's no reason I can't start building while I wait for that to get fixed.

I'm not really bothered by heights, and my neighbor has a man lift he offered to let me use. he does high rise caulking on windows and stuff and it extends 60' and can safely do up to a 45 degree angle up and out, i didn't even know something like that existed, so that will make life a lot easier than scaffolding.
 
  
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fatjay

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Ok got a question. I need to remove the topsoil, 6" down BEFORE the footers are dug. I'm not sure the best way to do this.

The backhoe is not very maneuverable, using the front bucket to scrape would be a challenge because it would be many trips to the dumping site, it doesn't turn very well. I could use the backhoe, but it seems like it would be tough to get a consistent level area that's 1000 sq ft.

Kubota with back blade I'm not sure would do very well because I don't have the down force to get into the ground.

The bobcat might be able to do it, I still need to get the governor issue figured out though. When it bogs the governror isn't kicking in.

The ditch witch has the plow that goes strait down. I saw an interesting video where a guy just plows the grass. In creeper mode I think I would have the traction. The easy way to remove grass - YouTube

Maybe I'm over thinking this, I just don't want to screw it up and i have limited space/time to practice.
 
   #9  

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Do you have a turning plow or tiller? I’d break up the ground and scoop it up with the bobcat. Unless the bobcat has a lot better traction then I’m giving it credit for scooping up unbroken ground will be tough.
 
  
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fatjay

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I don't have a turning plow, I do have a tiller but it's on a tractor that I haven't run in a really long time. And last time it was run it wasn't running very well. It's my other 1968 New Holland S14 with 48" tiller. Worst case though, I could canibalize the 71 new holland s14 which runs well, but lacks the rear PTO and hydraulic lifts in the rear.
 

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I'm a backhoe guy. I'd tear it loose with the backhoe. Then trim it smooth with the Bobcat.
 

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I'm a backhoe guy. I'd tear it loose with the backhoe. Then trim it smooth with the Bobcat.

That’s what I would do before I spent much effort getting a tiller to work but I think the tiller be more uniform.
 
  
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fatjay

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I do have a shiny new 24" bucket on the backhoe, Maybe i'll mess around with that and see what I can do.

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Fatjay: I love the old 53 bobcat and happy to hear it's a gem. any regular maintenance or just keep gas fresh and turn it on?

also interested in seeing a 3 story shop and will there be living area up above or just storage?

how do you post these amazing pics? imgur, photobucket or do tell cause very nice?
 
  
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fatjay

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Fatjay: I love the old 53 bobcat and happy to hear it's a gem. any regular maintenance or just keep gas fresh and turn it on?

also interested in seeing a 3 story shop and will there be living area up above or just storage?

how do you post these amazing pics? imgur, photobucket or do tell cause very nice?

The oliver is the 53, 67 years old. Sits years at a time keep the gas tank full to prevent rust, keep the battery on a tender. Leaks hydraulic fluid enough that it never gets bad as I'm always filling it. The bobcat I just bought, it's an early 70's model. I rebuilt the carb, changed hte oil and filter, hydraulic fluid, new battery, and it runs great except the governor isn't working, so that's on the list to be fixed.

I'll have my office on the second floor, metal shop, stuff like that. Storage on the 3rd floor and an elevator between floors. I don't want to haul equipment up one flight of stairs let alone 2. Things like seeders, sprayers, aerators, snowblowers, all that stuff can go up on the 3rd floor and out of the way.

I like imgur, it's easy and there isn't any bs like photobucket. Upload the picture from the phone, bring it up on my computer, click copy on the bbcode, and paste it in. Real easy, no ads or bandwidth throttling or blocked images.

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TBN supports posting pics from your computer without any outside support.
 
  
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fatjay

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TBN supports posting pics from your computer without any outside support.

Right, but I like to keep my information backed up globally. I reference it in other forums, and it's more for a backup so I can look back. I use it for non-tractor pictures too, family, computer stuff, pets. I have a hundred different projects going on aside from tractor and yard stuff, so it's nice to have it all in one place.
 

ovrszd

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Right, but I like to keep my information backed up globally. I reference it in other forums, and it's more for a backup so I can look back. I use it for non-tractor pictures too, family, computer stuff, pets. I have a hundred different projects going on aside from tractor and yard stuff, so it's nice to have it all in one place.

Yep. I used to do that too. Not anymore. I do my backup here at home.
 

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We just had a slab poured for a new shop/barn and the concrete guys used a mini-excavator and a bobcat to level everything and a sheeps foot roller to pack it down (not having any real rain for the last six months helped). If you have to move the dirt very far, try to scrounge up a dump trailer - they make it so much faster than moving dirt by the bucket full.
 

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Ok got a question. I need to remove the topsoil, 6" down BEFORE the footers are dug. I'm not sure the best way to do this.

The backhoe

I would dig it with the hoe bucket and pile the dirt where I could get it with the front bucket, and then haul it to where it needs to one bucket at a time.

Do you really have top soil? Is it loamy and organic? I consistently see people post pictures of what they call topsoil on their places, and to me, it is not top soil, and it was a wast of time to remove it. Where I live in East Texas, we do not have top soil. Where I used to live in CA, the organic loam went down a hundred feet and required significant footings, but once you got into the hills and, there was no top soil and the foundations where designed for earthquakes.

If you actually have 6 inches of topsoil, are you replacing it with gravel that you will have to compact or clean fill that you will have to compact?

If you do not have top soil, then you do not have to pay for fill material that is very difficult to compact.
 

Jack Murdock

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I really want to follow this as well. My dream after #3 and #4 are out of college is to build a shop / mancave / living area here in upstate NY. Just curious I saw radiant heat but what fuel ? Oil, Nat Gas, LP or wood ? Radiant implies a hot water boiler and you can easily add a separate zone for a water heater off the boiler. Thanks for the pictures.
 
  
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fatjay

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I consider topsoil the part where the grass/roots are. Under that it's hard, but if you put it on top of where grass is growing, the grass/roots will die, it will break down, and it can sink, thus creating foundation issues.

I don't know what I'm going to do for radiant heat yet. For now I'm concentrating on the building, and my entire budget is going towards the biggest building I can afford. I'm not even doing floors aside from plywood around the perimiter on second and 3rd floors to start, so it'll be all open aside from the floor joists. I'm 35 now so I hope to get 50 years out of this building and if it takes a while to finish, I'm 100% ok with that. For now I just want to get in out of the elements. I have 8 cars and 3 car garage right now, i need more space.
 
  
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fatjay

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Once top soil is off, it'll be backfilled with 2b stone and i'll compact it with one of those compactors.
 
  
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fatjay

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Cleaned up the garage site, got the plans finished up. Going to trench to a lower portion of the yard so water drains out of the dig site. It is raining a lot and the yard is a mess.

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I don't see an $$$ elevator in the plans.
 
  
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fatjay

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I don't see an $$$ elevator in the plans.

That's coming later. Blowing the budget on the building first, just an empty building, then I'll improve it over the years.
 

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FJ: some of the builders around here use HAY to keep the mud at a minimum or because the inspectors make them buy it, but if you can get some cheap it might help your mud issues and maybe keep your machines from getting stuck.

good luck!!
 
  
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fatjay

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The problem is 6" down is nothing but solid clay and it sucks for absorbsion. Straw prices are insane right now, $9 for square bales so I'd rather avoid it if I can. Since the yard is pitched once i have a trench it should drain pretty well.
 

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FJ: just throwing it out there about the hay and sounds like you've researched it and hopefully your trenching will work.

good luck
 

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I like all the detail that you have in your plan. Why are you using 2x8's for your framing?
 
  
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fatjay

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Due to the 2nd and 3rd floor, it's structurally required for the 1st floor. The cost isn't much extra compared to 2x6's on the 2nd and 3rd floor, can shove more insulation, wiring, and plumbing in the wall.
 

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Thanks. I've seen quite a few hotels built that are 3 stories tall and they all used 2x6's. I've never heard of anybody using 2x8's because of the extra money and dealing with how much heavier they are. But I've never built or lived in PA, so that's all new to me.
 
  
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fatjay

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Got the excavation started. Block arrived. Permit arrived. Going to line it out on Saturday.

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fatjay

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I’ll replace those upside down images when I get to a computer.
 
   #36  

EddieWalker

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That's a lot of block!!! Your timing is perfect with everyone having to stay home right now. You'll be able to get a lot done.
 
  
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fatjay

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A buddy of mine works for a lumber processing company that supplies other lumber companies that contractors use. Due to the virus and loss of business they're opening up to employee's buying materials. he said he can buy it for me at his cost, which is going to save me thousands. The only catch is i have to pick it up myself. Which means I get to buy a new trailer!
 
   #38  

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Win - Win!
 
  
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fatjay

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Staked the dig site. Bobcat starter bit the big one so I'm waiting on a replacement. Then i'll dig the driveway and have a stone guy come in and pour stone.

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fatjay

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what does "pour stone" mean?

I'll take the topsoil off and get down to the clay for all of the driveway, which is about 150' long. then have a guy bring in stone and stone the driveway so the cement mixer can get back to the garage site without sinking in the yard.
 
   #42  

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Are you talking about tailgate spreading, or one of those fancy conveyor trucks?
 
  
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fatjay

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not sure. whatever hte guy shows up with.

Got the bobcat running again after a dead starter set me back a few days. started digging the driveway. I have red clay and it's insanely tough. I thought since it had just rained it would be easier to break up. Spinning all 4 tires trying to dig into the dirt. I think i need a set of tracks.
 
   #44  

EddieWalker

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I'll take the topsoil off and get down to the clay for all of the driveway, which is about 150' long. then have a guy bring in stone and stone the driveway so the cement mixer can get back to the garage site without sinking in the yard.

That's going to take a lot of stone to support a cement truck!!!!! They are freakishly heavy.
 
   #45  

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That's going to take a lot of stone to support a cement truck!!!!! They are freakishly heavy.

So true. If you want something compacted, hire some full cement trucks to come drive on it.

I got away with just 3 to 4" of crushed concrete road base to support cement trucks driving into my home building site (800 feet of gravel driveway through the woods). But I have sandy soil, and I put a big fat crown on my road first. Get your roadway DRY before you stone it.
 
  
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fatjay

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going to put down 3" crushed stone first. Not gravel but 3" large rocks. The guy who is bringing it in knows better than me.
 

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Your windbreak is very impressive. Did you plant those trees? or are the shrubs?
 

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The equipment is older than the operator :)
 

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That's going to take a lot of stone to support a cement truck!!!!! They are freakishly heavy.

They’re probably not as high of ground psi as a dump truck because they have bigger tires but the local ones are 34,000 empty and 74,000 gross.
 
 
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