3-Point Hitch new project far fetched, need input

   / new project far fetched, need input #1  

SI2305

Gold Member
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
320
Hello to all,

My last project with my truckloader was a bust--the leaf blower seized on me when it ran out of fuel. It was an old troy-built, the second tool from this brand that met an untimely death. But the failure of this project had me thinking in a totally different direction. I was thinking about the usefulness of power beyond for the top link. It also had me thinking about the advantage of having something like a top and tilt or other hydraulic operations. I think that my ultimate modification would be to modify my rear blade to angle and offset hydraulically (or electrically, etc.) simply to ease snow removal. I have found that the rear blade is a great snow removal tool, but I would love to be able to make adjustments on the fly.

Any thoughts on adapting hydraulics for this application? I know this is a more expensive route than other projects I have recently undertaken, but this would be a long term project. I love my 2305 and really can't see parting ways with it though I would not mind having some of the capabilities of some of the larger models. I have seen rear hydraulic controls on the 3032e and 3038e series and wondered is such a modification could be adapted to my 2305. I know up front that I am limited to about 3 GPM, and I can accept limited speed of the hydraulics as long as it gets the job done.

I appreciate any input,

SI2305
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #2  
If you are blown away by the price of the power beyond solution, look at an electrical actuator. They are not that fast, but they do the job. After a year of reaching back and hand cranking the top link on my three point hitch to get my quick hitch to hook up with various attachments I'm ready to go the electrical route. Speed is not important.
 
   / new project far fetched, need input
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Actually I have been blown away by the cost of actual power beyond systems. What exactly is an electrical actuator? I have seen several comments about them and they look like a whole hydraulic system all in a nice cylindrical package with only electrical lines sticking out. I agree that speed is not necessary and rotating the cylinder requires me to have to drop the implement to relieve pressure anyway. Is my basic assumption correct?

SI2305
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #4  
An electrical actuator, aka linear actuator, basically is like a cylinder, but it is run by a little electric motor. The motor turns a set of gears that extend and retract the actuator. First off, linear actuators can be very expensive, depending on strength, length, etc. Second, I would be worried that those little gears wouldn't last under the shock loads that they would be subjected to pulling an implement. What about a Hydraulink? I don't have one myself yet, but a lot of other folks on here seem to like them. http://www.hydraulink.net/
 
   / new project far fetched, need input
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Highcompression,

Is the linear actuator a hydraulic pump or is it a worm drive? I have heard talk about both of these, but I am not exactly clear what category it fits into.

SI2306
 
   / new project far fetched, need input
  • Thread Starter
#6  
High Compression,

Another concern that I just though about and you may have knowledge here was about just how much force is going to act upon that top link. If I had say a box blade that was u in the air, I would think that the top link would endure minimal force. But if that box blade were grading over my 500' gravel driveway, I imagine that the forces acting on it would be considerably higher.

Presently, I do not have a box blade, I use a rear grader blade (60") which has served me very well both on the gravel and on snow, but the principle is the same.

Please, let me know what kind of force I should expect to exert on the device if you have even a reasonable educated guess.

Thanks for the input,

SI2305
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #7  
I would stick with hydraulic cylinders for the heavy loads you would incur. I would check into simple electric diverters to utilize the front fel circuits you presently have or add the power beyond and additional rear valves and outlets.
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #8  
Highcompression,

Is the linear actuator a hydraulic pump or is it a worm drive? I have heard talk about both of these, but I am not exactly clear what category it fits into.

SI2306

More of a worm drive for most. Some are spur gear. Everyone that I have seen, the gears are plastic or maybe aluminum. Every one that I have seen has been an aluminum housing.

It would be difficult to calculate the exact force that would be applied to the top link due to many variables. I have to agree that hydraulic might be a better choice for this application. Gut feel. Did you check out the Hydraulinks? Kinda the best of both worlds with no hydraulics to have to mess with.:thumbsup:
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #9  
jenkinsph nailed it on the head. Use a "circuit selector" solenoid valve with a momentary contact push button switch to split your front hydraulic circuits.

I use a rear blade to move snow and have a hydraulic top link. Personally, the hydraulink might be marginally more convenient than a standard top link, but no where near as useful as a true hydraulic top link. The hydraulink requires an outside force to adjust it's length. ie gravity or pushing/pulling against something. When I have pile of snow moving and need to adjust the angle of the cutting edge I don't want to have to lift or stop to make an adjustment.
 
   / new project far fetched, need input #10  
Set your back blade down on the ground. Now disconnect and remove your top link. Grab the toplink connection on your backblade and PULL. When you have the blade off the ground, you will be duplicating the MINIMUM force required to lift the blade.
 

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