New RX730P - Couple of questions as a new owner

[OLV1071571]

Hi Everyone,

Recently came from a Mahindra 3540PST which I was very pleased with over the last 7 years. I have bumped up to an RX7320P and I am also initially very pleased with it.

Here are couple questions which I would like to better understand.

1. What do you guys run the RPMs at when you are just moving from one location to another on the property? Not "working" the traction but simply travelling. On some other threads people discuss running the RPMs around 1,800 - 2,000 to ensure more time between regens (or perhaps avoid altogether). This is my first tractor with DPF and my goal is to avoid regens as best as possible through fuel treatment (archoil/hotshots EDT) and higher RPMs. But what is the sweet spot?

2. Any suggestions on how I can modify this top link connection in the pictures? Any extensions? Adapters? I have a heavy hitch trailer mover that is Cat 1 and new tractor is Cat 2. The "ears" on the ball joint wont allow it to fit in between the top link connection (width) for the hitch. I can't seem to find another Cat 2 ball that doesn't have the ears on the ends. I love my old Mahindra that has both Cat1 and Cat2 in one swivel ball but I can't find a replacement repair end I believe they call it. I have searched high and low for any adapter etc but perhaps I am looking for the wrong terms.

3. Is draft control intended to be used on it own independent of position control or should they be used in tandem? The intent is for grading gravel or dirt. I believe some tractors you do both and others you use only DC to allow adjustments in the hills or valleys of the ground etc.

Thanks and I appreciate the insight. Looking forward to putting some good hours on this thing.

 

[D&D]

1. Point A to B, I run my DK at 1500 rpm unless I want higher ground speed.

2. https://www.agrisupply.com/ford-top-link-cat-1-2-trivalent/p/106037/ this may not be the right length though

3. Daedong Kioti RX6020 Manual (Page 165 of 262) | ManualsLib

 

[OLV1071571]

Thank you D&D. For point 2, I looked at those but was hoping I could get just the repair end (the part that connects to the implement not the tractor) being cat 1 but the thread size is often too small. Should be 1 1/8 for a larger Cat 2 top link.

 

[D&D]

Thank you D&D. For point 2, I looked at those but was hoping I could get just the repair end (the part that connects to the implement not the tractor) being cat 1 but the thread size is often too small. Should be 1 1/8 for a larger Cat 2 top link.

next thought then, have a machine shop (or you) make a threaded insert for the cat 2 to cat 1

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just grind the cat 2 end down far enough that it will fit between the ears of the implement.
Use a bushing to reduce the 1" dia down to the 3/4" dia of the cat 1 implement and still work fine for any cat 2 implement.
I imagine that this would cost all of maybe $2 for the reducer bushing and maybe 10-15 minutes of grinding time, and that's if you are not set up for it. If you are set up for it, maybe 3-4 minutes.

 

[OLV1071571]

Just grind the cat 2 end down far enough that it will fit between the ears of the implement.
Use a bushing to reduce the 1" dia down to the 3/4" dia of the cat 1 implement and still work fine for any cat 2 implement.
I imagine that this would cost all of maybe $2 for the reducer bushing and maybe 10-15 minutes of grinding time, and that's if you are not set up for it. If you are set up for it, maybe 3-4 minutes.

Thank you. I thought about grinding it. All I have is a cutoff wheel and I would need to figure out how to secure it while cutting then perhaps hand file it clean. Just didn't want to look at the ugly cutting job on a brand new piece of equipment.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No ugly grinding allowed.

You could always just get a Hydraulic top & tilt set, no grinding required.

 

[J&K]

What do you guys run the RPMs

I keep mine above 1500 rpms even when sitting. I idle it up if sitting still

The "ears" on the ball joint wont allow it to fit in between the top link connection (width) for the hitch.

Get a hydraulic top link. They are awesome to be able to adjust an implement. I got a quick hitch for mine also which is cat 1 and I did have to grind the balls slightly to make them fit.

Is draft control intended to be used on it own independent of position control or should they be used in tandem

Draft control was made for keep depth of moldboard plow the same. When starts digging in it raises the hitch. It can be used to limit how far you hitch travels.

This is my first tractor with DPF and my goal is to avoid regens as best as possible through fuel treatment (archoil/hotshots EDT) and higher RPMs. But what is the sweet spot?

Don't sweet the regen thing. It's not been that big of a deal just make sure you keep the rpms up if it starts a regeneration. I use Hotshots daily brand fuel treatment.

 

[OLV1071571]

I keep mine above 1500 rpms even when sitting. I idle it up if sitting still

Get a hydraulic top link. They are awesome to be able to adjust an implement. I got a quick hitch for mine also which is cat 1 and I did have to grind the balls slightly to make them fit.

Draft control was made for keep depth of moldboard plow the same. When starts digging in it raises the hitch. It can be used to limit how far you hitch travels.

Don't sweet the regen thing. It's not been that big of a deal just make sure you keep the rpms up if it starts a regeneration. I use Hotshots daily brand fuel treatment.

J&K I appreciate the detailed reply. Its helpful. I will check out a hydraulic top link. I have been considering a quick hitch as I am not getting any younger. Ill have to see what brands and build quality look like.

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

when traveling between sites I often just move to a higher gear/range and lower the RPM's to idle.

I ground my top link too, Had one piece of equipment where it was 1/8 of an inch or so too wide. Did that years ago no issues so far.