Flail Mower New to Me- Seppi SMO 200 Flail Mower

[Doug Vee]

New to me, definitely NOT new.

I have the mower on blocks in the shop. I was concerned about the ugly looking gear oil and not being able to drain it completely due to the drain not being at the low point of the housing. I removed the gear box and have it hanging at an angle that should allow it to drain completely...well, all that will run anyway. There will be a coating on everything that probably will not drain. I think I will let it hang for a while, then reinstall and fill it with new gear oil, then drain it after a short interval to flush out the remaining contaminates.

I started dismantling the rear roller bearing assemblies. It is not apart yet, but bolts are mostly loosened. It doesn't look like it will be very difficult to get the bearing supports removed. One bearing is completely. failed.

It looks like the left end of the rear roller has separated from the main body of the roller. I would like to remove it to try and address that, but that looks like it would be a tricky process. The roller support is lower than the bottom of the mower structure, which is what my blocking is under. The roller shaft is longer than the space between the two roller supports, so it looks like at least one roller support must be removed to completely remove the roller assembly. It appears that my roller is described as the "Prior Production" assembly in the manual, dated May of 2006. The roller and the inner shaft appear to be one part in the parts break down, so the shaft does not seem to be removable through the roller.

Does anyone have a feeling for whether it would be advisable to support the mower on the flail rotor with jack stands, at least one end? I am not sure how the fore and aft balance would be affected, but the front side would definitely get much lighter. If this would be safe to do (for me and the mower) it would make it much easier to remove a roller support.

Anyhow, I am sure I will be looking for more advice in the future. Thanks again,
Doug

 

[blitzen]

I'm definitely watching this as you bring the mower back into service! Can you tell me what hammers you have -SMW? also how long are the bolts that hold the hammers. Mine were welded on and I had to cut them to get them off. I am thinking around 3.5 to 4 inches hoping you can verify that. TIA for posting this project.

Dave

 

[Doug Vee]

I'm definitely watching this as you bring the mower back into service! Can you tell me what hammers you have -SMW? also how long are the bolts that hold the hammers. Mine were welded on and I had to cut them to get them off. I am thinking around 3.5 to 4 inches hoping you can verify that. TIA for posting this project.

Dave

Dave,

What remains of the existing hammers appear to be SMO/WM, part #13002001. The bolts are described as "Special Bolt", part #13002075, size M16x1.5x90 10.9 and the nut is described as- yes you guessed it, "Special Nut", part #30012076, size M16x1.5-10.9. I assume M16 is bolt diameter in mm, 1.5 is thread pitch in mm, and 10.9 is grade of bolt? Maybe someone can confirm that.

There is a hammer kit that is described as part #48020002, "Kit Hammer, SMO (hammer, nut, bolt)". Sounds like pretty much I would need, times 21. Sounds kind of expensive put that way.

The hammer bolt removal looks like it will be kind of a bear... though probably not as much of a pain as yours were.
I am not sure exactly when I will be out at the shop next, but I will measure the bolts and confirm with you when I do. Should be sometime later this afternoon, or tomorrow morning.

Doug

 

[Tinhack]

You need full and safe support to work on any mower. When I work on my flail mower, I have it attached to the tractor 3PH, raised to full height and have jack stands under the side panels. Tractor in 1st gear low range with parking brake set on both sides. (Brake pedals locked together--Hiway mode)

The roller most likely does not have a through shaft. Most have the shaft welded to the end caps then the caps are welded to the tube.

Here's my old Caldwell Barracuda flail. It uses the spoon flails at about $3.25 each. It leaves a manicured finish that's better than any of the rotary cutters I have including the Bad Boy ZTR. I like using it in the fields after the initial knock-down with the rotary.

 

[Tinhack]

M16x1.5x90 10.9 is pretty common. What's "special" about it and the nut? Have a photo?

Here's an equivalent SAE size.

 

[blitzen]

Dave,

What remains of the existing hammers appear to be SMO/WM, part #13002001. The bolts are described as "Special Bolt", part #13002075, size M16x1.5x90 10.9 and the nut is described as- yes you guessed it, "Special Nut", part #30012076, size M16x1.5-10.9. I assume M16 is bolt diameter in mm, 1.5 is thread pitch in mm, and 10.9 is grade of bolt? Maybe someone can confirm that.

There is a hammer kit that is described as part #48020002, "Kit Hammer, SMO (hammer, nut, bolt)". Sounds like pretty much I would need, times 21. Sounds kind of expensive put that way.

The hammer bolt removal looks like it will be kind of a bear... though probably not as much of a pain as yours were.
I am not sure exactly when I will be out at the shop next, but I will measure the bolts and confirm with you when I do. Should be sometime later this afternoon, or tomorrow morning.

Doug

Thanks Doug, my hammers are SMW(short neck) size not SMO(long neck) On the back of the hammers it is cast into them mine has the SMW casting. I have attached a screenshot for the nuts and bolts. The 90 is the length in mm in inches it is equal to 3.54330709 inches--not from Seppi just curious what you/people think.

 

[Doug Vee]

M16x1.5x90 10.9 is pretty common. What's "special" about it and the nut? Have a photo?

Here's an equivalent SAE size.

The bolts are around 3-1/2" long. I don't know what is special about them. The bolts are fine threaded and the nuts look like nylon locking nuts. Maybe that is what makes them special?

Doug

 

[Doug Vee]

Thanks Doug, my hammers are SMW(short neck) size not SMO(long neck) On the back of the hammers it is cast into them mine has the SMW casting. I have attached a screenshot for the nuts and bolts. The 90 is the length in mm in inches it is equal to 3.54330709 inches--not from Seppi just curious what you/people think.

blitz,

I have not looked on the back of the hammers yet. The fronts are so worn, I doubt that there is anything legible still on them, but possibly.

I did not know what the SMO/SMW nomenclature meant. I learned something new...always a good thing.

Concerning the bolt length, the heads are recessed into the tab part way, so that measurement is probably really accurate. I suppose a backing wrench is not needed to prevent the bolt from turning...now stopping the rotor from turning is the problem. One issue at a time.

Doug

 

[Doug Vee]

blitz,

I have not looked on the back of the hammers yet. The fronts are so worn, I doubt that there is anything legible still on them, but possibly.

I did not know what the SMO/SMW nomenclature meant. I learned something new...always a good thing.

Concerning the bolt length, the heads are recessed into the tab part way, so that measurement is probably really accurate. I suppose a backing wrench is not needed to prevent the bolt from turning...now stopping the rotor from turning is the problem. One issue at a time.

Doug

I was able to work on the mower some the past couple of days. I removed the rear hatch. The pivot/hinge bolts were almost complete wore through. One broke as I was turning it, the other I cut off because I did not have a 11mm Allen wrench. The hatch adjustment holes on the right side are a little jacked up. One of the holes will need a little welding action to get it reliable again. The bottom edge of the hatch is worn from riding directly on the roller because of the completely worn out bolts. Otherwise the hatch is in straight condition.

I removed the rear roller bearings. One was completely failed (for a long time), and since it was not addressed, it ruined the stub shaft on one end.

Also, the inner bearing support brackets were nonexistent. This allowed a little over an inch of sideways play, which may have been responsible for the, what looks like a separate end cap, to slide apart and become slightly cocked within the main body of the roller.

I will remove the roller and investigate further. I am thinking the end cap can be squared up and reseated, and maybe some small tack welds on the seam. As far as the ruined stub, I am thinking a local machine shop can remove and reweld a replacement stub on the end of the roller. I may price a replacement roller and bearing assembly and compare to see if repairing the roller would be competitive with new.

With the rear hatch off, it is much easier to see the hammers. While peering under there yesterday, I noticed one of the hammers had a missing nut. I pulled the bolt and was able to get a picture of the hammer.

I removed the gearbox so I could drain it easier. It has been draining for a couple of weeks now. Not sure if I will flush it or not. I am in no hurry to reinstall it so, I will jut let it do its thing..

Anyway, the fun continues. Comments are appreciated.

Doug

 

[blitzen]

Wow, you are getting after it! here are a couple photos of the SMW hammer. After market from Clean Cutter Tiller Blades. item name MAZ07. Here is a picture of the SMW hammer front and back.