New to tractors and head spinning... L3200 add TnT, 3rd front, Quick attach etc

sadpanda · May 6, 2015

Greetings!

I'm new to tractors but not new to mechanics/fab or forums. I've been searching and reading for days but I'm still left with a few questions.

L3200 HST
1. Does anyone have a pdf manual for this guy? I found one for a 3200 but it does not cover the HST.
2. Is there a way to make the controls for the FEL less touchy? I've got many years of experience operating fork lifts and my 'feathering touch' is calibrated for those types of machines. Maybe change the arm ratio somehow?
3. I've just started looking but does anyone have any good threads on adding a proper tool box or other storage?
4. Can someone confirm there is no way to 'shift on the fly' with the HST (L-n-M-n-H pattern selector)

QUICK ATTACH - I purchased the HF QA. Only thing I had to do was open up a few holes so they would accept quick pins. However:
1. I'm assuming bushings are now required for all of my implements... What should I be looking for at TSC (size)? It seems like I need bushings for the QA as well. The pins are a little small for the swivels in the 3pt.
2. I've got an RD7200 mower. Currently the top and side links look like this:

The manual shows an optional quick hitch kit... Can someone break this one down for me? It's obvious they are extending the top link out but are they also taking away the floating function?

3. Does anyone else have a clearance issue with the QA when raising the 3pt? Obviously careful use and a TnT would fix the issue but I'm still thinking some trimming of the lights and grinding on the QA may be in order.

HYDRAULIC TOP LINK - I just purchased this property (tractor came with the deal) and the repairs and renovations killing me as it is. I've been looking at threads like this and weighing options. Yes I could go with a factory option ($$$$) or with the ever popular and helpful FitRite (long lead times right now

) but I think DIY is in order.
1. Adding a multi-function handle like this one, a double selector valve wired to the same switch to control TnT, and a single selector for the 3rd option on the FEL should do the trick yes? Is there a better/cheaper source for these parts?
2. If I go this route, I won't have side float on the 3pt... Is this a deal breaker or is there a way to add it perhaps with another electric valve? I will be doing a lot of blade work when it comes time to build the new barn.
3. If I go the stand alone route, can someone explain what the difference is between a 3way and 4way valve?
4. It seems the argument for going stand alone is future additions. If I run electrics as mentioned above, what valves/ports would I want at the rear? A double stack that includes a detent and spring center motor valves and another PB port?
5. Any of these stand out as a clear choice for the top link?agristoreusa, agrisupply 1, agrisupply 2, surpluscenter
6. Should I be looking at 2" diam cylinders for the side link as well? Any other advice on this?

THANKS!!!!!

s219 · May 6, 2015

This is the top link I put on my L3200: A-TLH01, Ford / New Holland, Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder (at the time, that was one of the only I found that had all the right dimensions). Works well so far. Hit it with a couple coats of Kubota orange and it looks great. There is a similar side link I plan on getting at some point.

I don't think float is real important for the side link -- at least it wouldn't be for me. If you want float for the top link (desirable) don't get one with a check valve, as that will defeat the float function.

aeblank · May 6, 2015

Regarding your QH......

In your picture, the top link is way too short. For the most part, the QH will be vertical through the entire range of motion. I think that'll take care of your interference.

For the bushings, yes, you need them. quick hitch bushings from Northern Tool + Equipment
Basically, you need lots of them...

For the lift arms, you can get the expensive stepped ones, or you can get a cat1-2 and cat2-3 bushing. They're like $3 each at TSC (so that's $12 just for the lift arms). Then for the top link there are 2 bushings as well (again cat1-2 and then cat2-3). So that's another $6.

Or (not sure of shipping) an entire set from Agrisupply is like $6. Items 11955,11959,11956,11958.

It's my opinion (opinion only!) that you could run your mower as-is. Just hook that flexi-link on the top hook. Maybe it won't want to stay in though, I dunno.

txdon · May 6, 2015

Regarding the HST shifting - it is not shift on the fly between HnMnL.

aeblank · May 6, 2015

My Grand L has a rabbit/turtle within each gear range. Not sure if your 3200 does or not.

s219 · May 6, 2015

aeblank said:
In your picture, the top link is way too short. For the most part, the QH will be vertical through the entire range of motion. I think that'll take care of your interference.

Good catch, I forgot to comment on that. Way way too short. I wonder if it's not the stock top link, as I don't think mine would even go that short (maybe it's that I never tried).

sadpanda · May 6, 2015

Thanks for the replies!

aeblank said:
Regarding your QH......
In your picture, the top link is way too short. For the most part, the QH will be vertical through the entire range of motion. I think that'll take care of your interference.

Top link has 3 positions on the tractor, this is in the middle position. I did not adjust the top link when I dropped the mower deck and hooked up the QH... It is nearly vertical in the down position.

aeblank said:
For the bushings, yes, you need them. quick hitch bushings from Northern Tool + Equipment
Basically, you need lots of them...

For the lift arms, you can get the expensive stepped ones, or you can get a cat1-2 and cat2-3 bushing. They're like $3 each at TSC (so that's $12 just for the lift arms). Then for the top link there are 2 bushings as well (again cat1-2 and then cat2-3). So that's another $6.

Or (not sure of shipping) an entire set from Agrisupply is like $6. Items 11955,11959,11956,11958.

So if I'm tracking you, going from the lift arm/toplink to the QH I just need single bushings... However, you are saying the QH is essentially Cat3 so I have to double stack bushings OR get the expensive adapters to get a snug fit? You are right. I'm going to need LOTS of bushings.

aeblank said:
It's my opinion (opinion only!) that you could run your mower as-is. Just hook that flexi-link on the top hook. Maybe it won't want to stay in though, I dunno.

[/QUOTE]

I hooked to it 'as is' drug it around the yard a bit and ya... chaos ensued. Top link flips up and down and tries to jump out of the top link hook.

sadpanda · May 6, 2015

aeblank said:
My Grand L has a rabbit/turtle within each gear range. Not sure if your 3200 does or not.

HST just has LnMnH and stick controlled throttle

sadpanda · May 6, 2015

s219 said:
Good catch, I forgot to comment on that. Way way too short. I wonder if it's not the stock top link, as I don't think mine would even go that short (maybe it's that I never tried).

no reason it wouldn't be stock... tractor is practically new. just turned 60 hrs.

coming from the automotive world, I know its an unequal length setup so there is no way to get rid of the angle change... just a matter of making sure nothing makes contact.

aeblank · May 6, 2015

QH is cat-3, so 2 sets of bushings in all 3 positions on all implements. WELL WORTH IT though.

Maybe a zip-tie to hold the top link in the hook? I dunno. Probably anything but the kit is a kludge. The kit seems to keep the "frame" a fixed distance for the QH and moves the "flex" back. It's an odd setup, but at least they have one.

For the 3-point, that's interesting. Mine does not vary nearly that much. I'd at least adjust it for vertical at mid-height (vertical at ground level isn't especially useful). Mine used to be in the middle hole too, but I read the lower hole will give you the most implement lift (and least weight capacity), so I moved mine down to the lower hole.