Newly OCD'ing about motor oil

[Rock knocker]

'83 John Deere 950 with 700 hours. We've always used Deere brand 30. I've started OCD'ing about this, and was wondering about going synthetic. Chevron recommends Delo 400 Multigrade for pre-2007 engines. I wonder if this is even a concern with a machine doing so little hours, yet getting an annual change.

What say ye

 

[RalphVa]

I've never had a problem converting old engines to synthetics. All you hear are myths. If you don't do more than about 100 hrs/yr (yours is 35), almost any oil would do. You could probably even use a gasoline engine oil because the main thing a diesel oil gives is ability to handle soot accumulation over time. This is why I was using a 0w30 gasoline oil in both my 240D and 4010 tractor because I changed both these every year with little miles/hrs on either, and Mobil 1 was the only 0w30 I could get at that time. Now, there are lots of 5w30 diesel oils out there to choose from. This is what I use in my Jetta TDI and plan to use in the 1025.

Ralph

 

[The Fred]

Although Mobil 1 is good oil I always use a European spec full synthetic oil such as any VW spec'd 502.00 505.00 505.01.
Look for ACEA A3/B3/B4/C3 on the label. 5W40 meets your requirement for cold and warm weather. Your only issue would be using high sulfur Diesel fuel in which case you would cut the drain interval in half. I use old fuel with high sulfur and change my tractor oil at 100 hrs. IF I had ULSD I would extend to 2oo hours.

VW says 10,000 miles or 1 year on most TDIs. I would never run 0W30 in anything but a hybrid or watch winder engine that got low use and short trips. VW certainly does not recommend 0W anything. 2009 up TDIs require 504/507 spec'd oil for DPF pollution. I would not use it in my tractor unless DPF equipped.
Here is a 2003 Jetta 2 liter gas engine with 200,000 miles and always Mobil 1 at 10K intervals (salesman's car). This picture is from 2009 and engine now has over 300,000 miles with no bearing issues.


Good info:
http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

Fred

 

[DEWFPO]

I would never run 0W30 in anything but a hybrid or watch winder engine that got low use and short trips.

Fred

Why?

DEWFPO

 

[The Fred]

0W30 is simply too thin in all but the coldest climates. I am assuming 240D is an old Benz car? With crank journal clearances at .003" and more this oil is a wrong choice.

Just my opinion, I see many engines apart for various reasons. Lots of info about oils leading us the in a strange direction. The biggest reason we see thin oils in the US these days is simply a government attempt to raise fuel economy standards.

When Ford first came out with 5W20 for US engines but none of the European engines it raised a red flag. You couldn't even buy 5W20 in England.
I always use European spec oil. I am told that US blended oil is quite different than opils blended over "there". I think the EPA has much to do with this.

Again just my opinion, Fred

European import cars motor oil specifications

 

[DEWFPO]

Fred,

Are you saying the 30 weight is on the low side of the 30 weight spec for operating temps?

DEWFPO

 

[Soundguy]

'83 John Deere 950 with 700 hours. We've always used Deere brand 30. I've started OCD'ing about this, and was wondering about going synthetic. Chevron recommends Delo 400 Multigrade for pre-2007 engines. I wonder if this is even a concern with a machine doing so little hours, yet getting an annual change.

What say ye

a couple years ago i went thru a 63 ford 4000 gasser and did some top end work ont he head, valves.. etc..

when i put her back together i used walmart supertech 10w30 full syn oil.

as syn goes.. it's on the cheaper side.. but I put less than 100 hours on her.

doing good.

i did this partially to combat sticking intake valves due to this junk the govt is passing off on us calling it gas. nt good in a moist state... goes stale in a couple weeks! makes varnish... valves stick on intakes...

grrr...


just worked on a 55 a50 ford today.. same issue. only 1 intake stuck on this one.. not all 4.

did the same.. only this time had ? kendal 10w30 full syn on hand cuz it had been on sale at the auto store. again.. cheap oil.. but low hours and good cleaner.


the 4000 so far has been loving the new oil.

no issues.

i did a filter change after 25 hours and topped off a quart and cut filter open to see if any of the myths about all the varnish breaking loose .. was even close to happening.

nope. looked like average oil filter.

think about this.

sludge took x or xx years to accumulate. even a high detergent oil ain't making it all wash down immediately.

 

[The Fred]

Fred,

Are you saying the 30 weight is on the low side of the 30 weight spec for operating temps?

DEWFPO

I am saying if you take 5W-30 and 0W-30 at 212 degrees or 100 C the 0W-30 will be much thinner than the 5W-30.

Another thing too is about synthetic blends. It took me 2 years for the Castrol oil rep to come clean about profit makers for these guys. Most blends only use 10-15% synthetic base, not like you would expect. When Saab and VW/Audi was having major sludge issues (ruining MANY engines) we were told a synthetic blend was a great option; NOT true. I stopped selling their oil after that fiasco.

Fred

 

[ovrszd]

Another thing too is about synthetic blends. It took me 2 years for the Castrol oil rep to come clean about profit makers for these guys. Most blends only use 10-15% synthetic base, not like you would expect. When Saab and VW/Audi was having major sludge issues (ruining MANY engines) we were told a synthetic blend was a great option; NOT true. I stopped selling their oil after that fiasco.

Are the oil packages required to state whether they are a blend or a true synthetic??

I've read some discussion about Amsoil being a true synthetic. How would I know for sure??

 

[Soundguy]

the 3 oils i have onthe shelf right now that are syn all state full syn. kendal, supertech, and valvoline.

I do see some that list 'blend'

the price point on the blend is so close.. why not go full syn...

Are the oil packages required to state whether they are a blend or a true synthetic??

I've read some discussion about Amsoil being a true synthetic. How would I know for sure??