NorTrac 25hp tractor - need to pull the engine

   / NorTrac 25hp tractor - need to pull the engine #1  

steveneashcraft

New member
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
3
Location
paulden, az
Tractor
Nortrac NT-254
I have a 2006 NorTrac 25 HP tractor with a YangDang 385 engine. I need to replace the freeze plug on the rear of the engine on the block. It seems like I have a coolant leak coming from between the block and the clutch housing (I think)
I need some advice. Is there any "easy" way to replace this freeze plug. That would be magic but I think I am going to need to pull the engine but I'm not sure where to separate the engine from the clutch, transmission, etc. Seems like a
picture of yangdang 385 engine water leak.jpg
engine pix from manual.jpg
picture of yangdang 385 engine water leak.jpg
simple operation if the engine is separated from the rest. Motor mounts are obvious but bolts holding the engine to the heavy stuff are not obvious to me.
Any thought would be appreciated Thanks, Steve
 
   / NorTrac 25hp tractor - need to pull the engine #2  
I'll give you a bump, hopefully one of the more knowledgeable members will see this thread.
 
   / NorTrac 25hp tractor - need to pull the engine #3  
Hey Steve...Broke several of the FarmPro versions of this tractor apart for clutch repairs. You are going to need 2 people at times. You take apart at the bell housing and you will need a clutch alignment tool or old tranny shaft to line everything back up later. We always blocked the back wheels, then bolted plates we made onto the side holes where attachments normally fasten. These plates were just flat with a round piece of pipe welded to it through which a heavy acme rod would fit with a large nut. These rods rested on jack stands and were adjustable if need be for height. These supported the back half of the tractor. You can do it with just one jack stand in the middle if you want. Your hardest job will be joining the halves together again by getting the clutch shaft to seat.
Fuel has to be drained and the line disconnected. Electrical lines going up front must be removed. On some models the steering wheel has to be removed and then the hood removed. Others the hood is in sections.
The front half is controlled by a motor puller from the front attached to the motor as far back as possible. Remember the front tires will flop when rolled forward without someone to help. After breaking apart you need to remove the clutch and flywheel The rear housing and then you can then remove the freeze plug. You may have to drill through the old one and use an ease out or other puller to remove it. Use plenty of sealer around a new one. Also when you reassemble clean all bolts and use locktite blue, not red on all block bolts.
Hope this helps. PS....just remembered....one or two of the bolts holding this first housing on may go into the water jacket so be sure they have sealer on them when you put back.
 
Last edited:
 
Top