O my, I am comfused

[Ooklaa]

:thumbsup: rusty. Nice pictures.

As to my questions about the inventory. Im pretty sure from a manufacturing point of view, if dealers are still sitting on 2014, 2015 models and its 2016. Their not gonna get any 2016 models. No matter if it says 0 hrs or not.

Its all about being patient. Thats my opinion i may be wrong.

Sois their something out their for 15,000 grand, loader, mower deck?

 

[boggen]

2 acres... is not a lot. it is a large "city lot" but to farm acres meh....

you are basically looking at an "over sized riding lawn mower on steroids" in order to get your FEL (front end loader) and 3pt hitch on rear end. others words a SCUT (sub compact utility tractor)

your moaning and groaning on 2 acres to cut down some trees. cut them down and cut them up were they fall and be done with it. toss chunks of wood into FEL of tractor and haul them out of the area. better yet pull a trailer style log splitter in with tractor. and cut up the trees and split them up and then load them into FEL general duty bucket and move them into stacked row for burning at later time in fire place.

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trying to go up to a large size tractor CUTS (compact utilty tractors) generally will give you higher ground clearanace and get you more away from a "riding lawn mower frame" to more of a tractor frame. along with adding overall weight (good for most things) but you are jumping up a lot in HP. that in 2 acres? seems a bit much. or less you have $$$ burning a hole in your pocket.

with above said. SCUTS... generally have a lot of features not there. that you might find begin showing up in a CUT to larger size tractors....
--such as "split rear brakes" a left and right pedal for rear tires. ((and on opposite foot than the go pedal))
--you most likely will not have "road gear" 20 to 25 MPH but lower overall max MPH. it can be illegal to drive down road even in town to out in country. to many drunks, no licenses so they hope on the riding lawn mower and go down the road....
--you will be missing "weight" weight can be king. when it comes to traction.
--3pt hitch return to position, meh forget 1 or 2 others for 3pt hitch control ability.
--you may not be able to run a "12v winch" even on larger tractors this may be the case. and generally suggested if they offer larger alternator get it, more so if playing to run a winch. other wise you will need a second 12v battery to run winch from. or end up with a tractor with a dead battery.

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--get 4x4 / MFWD or what ever they call it. it is worth it.
--get some sort of hydrualic / hydrostatic / or like transmission. stay away from "gear/manual transmission" preferably something that does not transfer power via a belt. a lot of riding lawn mowers. not sure on SCUTS. and transfering power back to rear end / final drive of tractor / rear axle.

--see about getting rear wheels filled with a fluid. for added weight. if you have a 12v "sprayer" for say atv, back of truck or towbehind. you can DIY filled tires pretty easily.
--see about getting rear wheels swapped around or what not with the rims to give you a wider stance. more so if you plan to have chains put on tires.
--double check manual some manufactures / make / model do NOT recommend filling front tires, and/or putting chains on front tires. ((seeing you are new york and dealing with snow))

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look at "power trac" hope i got name correctly. they are combo unit / cross between a skid steer and a tractor. were everything attaches in the front. last time i checked the units were priced right at or perhaps cheaper than other manufacture regular tractors. the equipment / attachments cost a little bit more. but you pay just a little bit for everything attaching out in front of you with a nice clear view of what you are doing.

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to note it... i am not brand specific. when ya get into SCUTS. your better off just jumping on each machine and seeing how it feels. and make sure basic features are there and /or features are there that you want. other words their just to many of the units, and they change yearly with different features. major brands are out there should be safe. they sell to many i would imagine most companies... that it comes up in luck if you get a manufacture defect or not. the exception might be, not all manufactures have a free "online parts manual" for me that is a high bonus. wish they would shove the operators manual and the shop/service manual onto internet freely as well.

 

[boggen]

forgot two thing to add....

tractor itself, cab, FEL (front end loader), 3pt hitch backhoe tend to be high dollar ticket items. you are better off getting them all on the same bill hopefully a larger discount will happen. vs trying to deal with them little bit at a time later on. all other 3pt hitch attachments can be had via third party and more likely cheaper and/or better.

R1 / ag / agiruclture tires = pizza cutter tires. they are thinner tires with deeper lugs on them
R3 / turf tires are like riding lawn mower tires
R4 / industrial tires. are a cross betwene R1's and R3's in that they are a wider tire with deeper lugs on them
--generally you can replace R3 tires with R4's and vice vs on the same rim. R1's on other hand normally need another rim if you want to swap tire types.
--if your lawn is to wet. "stay off it" and let it dry out. all there is to it. R4's tend to be more acceptable tire between the 3 tire types. and/or perhaps R3's with chains when it comes to snow.
--there is one other tire type out there. "forestry tires" they generally have MUCH deeper lugs on them. and i doubt you would ever need them.

 

[jhasafety1]

Everyone has a preferred tractor brand, I bought a 2012 Mahindra Max 28xl and have never regretted it. I mow every week with it, have the backhoe, loader, tiller, box blade and rock rake when I need them. I take care of about 5 acres with it. Several are going to find fault with my choice, and say I don't need that much tractor. I just throttle it up and smile as I go about my business.

 

[4570Man]

If lifting smallish logs and mowing is the only task it needs to do a BX should be more than sufficient. I would rather have a little more tractor like a L3800. I have mowed some with my L3240 weighing about 6,500 pounds, but in the spring and fall or any other time the ground is wet you can forget about that. If moving already cut and delivered logs is the only wood you deal with a set of pallet forks would be more than sufficient and way cheaper than a grapple. I prefer a stand alone splitter. They are so much more convenient, and it keeps my tractor free to move wood. The advantage of a tractor mounted splitter is that a tractor usually moves more GPM at higher pressure than a stand alone splitter. I along with most TBN members have never wanted a smaller tractor. A lot of guys buy too small of a tractor and then loose money trading up to a bigger one.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I have two Kubota BX tractors - a BX23 (tractor/loader/backhoe) and a BX2660 with a loader and a midmount mower. So I'm biased, but I'd suggest taking a hard look at the Kubota offerings. If you have cash, you can also look for a gently used low hour Kubota BX and save a few bucks. My BX2660 had only 125 hours on it. They are very dependable little tractors.

Don't give away your JD lawn tractor until you buy a tractor and use the midmount mower some. You may decide that you'd rather do the yard, especially the delicate parts of it, with the lawn tractor.

 

[s219]

If you're not shopping a Kubota BX in this price/size range, you're missing the top seller in the category.

As for model years, well, tractors don't really go by years, so it won't really matter to the JD dealer or customers when the stock comes in or when they sell. When there is a model changeover, you'll know because the tractor model number will change.

 

[Wagtail]

To me the important thing is that the tractors are mostly good but not all dealers are close to the same. start going to dealers and find one that will treat you right. Talk to tractor people about who the good dealers are in your area. Go to where the farmers hang out and talk to them, they know the rep of all of the dealers. Find a good dealer and Then look for a tractor.
I have seen a dealer charge over $50 for labor putting on a new push mower blade. How much could they get from a tractor owner. Ed

This. I won't push a particular colour. At 2 acres you may want to consider a separate Lawn Tractor, then outfit your SCUT with R4 tyres.

Good luck, G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder. Enjoy the site.

 

[Ooklaa]

Excellent info guys thankyou! I dont want my lawn to get ripped up at all. After i do all the moving and landscaping im going to leave about .14 of the property for my wood/splitting/cutting. Use the scut for all the moving of logs and split firewood. If a log splitter attachment is better then the store box versions id rather have that. As For mowing is a belly mower better or a bull behind? I won't get rid of my d125 but im hoping the scut can do a way better job of mowing the lawn and fall cleanup.

Investing in a machine like this for me means not having to buy or have extra motors around. I don't mind getting attachments, but if i can't get a log splitter and if the scut doesnt mow grass as good as a d125 that might just make me move away from these. Before i move in that direction tho i will exhaust every bit of information I can find. Im not afraid of having a machine that is too much for my property per say. But i domt also domt wamt to rent machines when i wanna do semi heavy work.

 

[Ooklaa]

Everyone has a preferred tractor brand, I bought a 2012 Mahindra Max 28xl and have never regretted it. I mow every week with it, have the backhoe, loader, tiller, box blade and rock rake when I need them. I take care of about 5 acres with it. Several are going to find fault with my choice, and say I don't need that much tractor. I just throttle it up and smile as I go about my business.

Whats a good proce for it?