Offset Rear Blade

   #1  

Bronco82

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I have been looking and looking for an offset rear blade for quite a while with no luck on the used market. I mean the offset which is adjusted by pulling the pin up, rotating the whole rear assembly, and then putting the pin back in. I am well aware that a lot of of the rear blades have offset adjustments in the blade, in which you unbolt it, shift it over to the distance you desire, and then bolt the blade back in. I am also aware that the rear blades do tilt, to angle them, pulling materials in, or pushing it away.

Where I reside, we have an old railbed, which has been neglected for far too long, and it now has most of the rocks pushed to the side or the hump in the middle. I also have a 200 foot gravel driveway I maintain.

Goal is to get the blade out past the tires and able to pull the pushed aside gravel back into the tire tracks on the railbed, and to push snow away from the edge of my driveway.

Is the bolt and unbolting of the blade to adjust the offset THAT big of a pain in the butt, or is the discount in cost and increase in availability well worth it?

Thanks in advance you giant wealth of knowledge.
 
   #2  

Fladogman

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I believe in the saying buy once cry once. So get the blade you want otherwise you'll always regret it. I found a used rhino 6 way and grabbed it. That was the model I was looking to buy anyway because it did everything I wanted. Finding it used was just luck. I've never regretted it.
 
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   #3  

kf4uda

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I was looking for the same features in a blade that you are. I lucked up and found a used Land Pride RB3784. I highly recommend it.
 
   #4  

CoyPatton

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Any type of offset blade will have lots of advantages over a fix blade.
As you are aware, the pulling a pin to adjust the blade position is a great time saver.
How often do you see yourself adjusting the offset? If it is a rare thing then the loosen a few bolts should not be a huge deal. If it is a frequent thing then wait to find the one you want.
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#6  
OP
B

Bronco82

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Buy once and cry once. That is a great quote, and it does make sense. Thank you for that.

And time and convenience, for sure, the ability to just lift the pin out, turn it, and pin back in and done.

I actually don't PLAN on having to move the offset quite frequently, like not on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis by any means. But on a job by job basis, however often that occurs.

I suppose it comes down to, is what is my price for convenience, when I do need it.
 
   #7  

fried1765

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I have been looking and looking for an offset rear blade for quite a while with no luck on the used market. I mean the offset which is adjusted by pulling the pin up, rotating the whole rear assembly, and then putting the pin back in. I am well aware that a lot of of the rear blades have offset adjustments in the blade, in which you unbolt it, shift it over to the distance you desire, and then bolt the blade back in. I am also aware that the rear blades do tilt, to angle them, pulling materials in, or pushing it away.

Where I reside, we have an old railbed, which has been neglected for far too long, and it now has most of the rocks pushed to the side or the hump in the middle. I also have a 200 foot gravel driveway I maintain.

Goal is to get the blade out past the tires and able to pull the pushed aside gravel back into the tire tracks on the railbed, and to push snow away from the edge of my driveway.

Is the bolt and unbolting of the blade to adjust the offset THAT big of a pain in the butt, or is the discount in cost and increase in availability well worth it?

Thanks in advance you giant wealth of knowledge.
Take a look at the..... EA Deluxe Scrape Blade.
It is the most versatile and easy to use blade on the market.
It has every possible adjustment, and a major offset capability!
 
   #8  

RickB

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Every major and many minor manufacturers make blades with angle, tilt and offset. Often not a huge volume seller, never at the low end of the pricing scale. Finding a used one the right size could be a challenge.
 
   #9  

deezler

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I was all set to buy the EA deluxe scraper blade myself, but they replied to me recently that lead time was 12-15 weeks, and that was just a guess. Plenty of reports of people going close to double their estimated lead times on implement and attachment orders from them this summer. So I had to grab a cheaper, temporary used blade off FB-marketplace to make sure I have something before the snow hits. No offset for me.... for now.
 

Underdog57

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I was looking for the same features in a blade that you are. I lucked up and found a used Land Pride RB3784. I highly recommend it.
I have this same blade with hydraulic angle, very sturdy, haven't bent anything in 8 years! I highly recommend it also.
 

LouNY

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I would highly recommend that whatever blade you initially buy,
that it have the tilt, angle and offset capabilities,
Also even if you do not intend to do so I would be sure that it has the ability to have
all of the operations performed hydraulically.
cylinders.jpg

I have the tilt and angle on hydraulics in this photo.

offset manual adjusters 1.jpg

The offset is still manual in this photo,
I do have another diverter valve and a cylinder that needs a bit of welding to add in to this unit.
With 2 diverter valves I will be able to control all three function using one tractor remote.
Just another "round toit".
 

fried1765

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I would highly recommend that whatever blade you initially buy,
that it have the tilt, angle and offset capabilities,
Also even if you do not intend to do so I would be sure that it has the ability to have
all of the operations performed hydraulically.
View attachment 713373
I have the tilt and angle on hydraulics in this photo.

View attachment 713374
The offset is still manual in this photo,
I do have another diverter valve and a cylinder that needs a bit of welding to add in to this unit.
With 2 diverter valves I will be able to control all three function using one tractor remote.
Just another "round toit".
Very nice......but hydraulically operated, you are talking about a mucho expensive rear blade
 

airbiscuit

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I have a Howse offset rear blade and I like it. It is a handy feature. That said if you find a good rear bade with a manual slider offset (loosening bolts) at a good price, buy it and treat yourself to a Milwaukee M18 heavy duty cordless impact wrench. Win - Win :)
 

fried1765

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I have a Howse offset rear blade and I like it. It is a handy feature. That said if you find a good rear bade with a manual slider offset (loosening bolts) at a good price, buy it and treat yourself to a Milwaukee M18 heavy duty cordless impact wrench. Win - Win :)
The EA blade does not require any tools to offset, and does not need a gorilla to slide it.
I have a King Kutter 7' sliding offset blade.
Anybody want to buy it? I do not have a gorilla to include.
 
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airbiscuit

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A used Woods slider would be a dandy blade.

 

RickB

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The EA blade does not require any tools to offset, and does not need a gorilla to slide it.
I have a King Kutter 7' sliding offset blade.
Anybody want to buy it?
Exactly 2 posts after saying hydraulics on a scrape blade were expensive. Fact is, cost, convenience, economy and inexpedience are in the eye of the user.
 

fried1765

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LouNY

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I used a Ford 11 ft hydraulic adjusted blade that I picked up for $1100 at an equipment dispersal auction.
Then I let the farm have that blade (was worried that my new tractor might have trouble handling it) and swapped for a Deere manually adjusted blade for several several years,
now I have a 10 ft Allied I picked up for $500 and am adding the hydraulics to .
 

TractorGuy

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It's not always possible to buy the implement you want. Sometimes you have to buy for the tractor and budget you have at the time.

I have a landscape rake and a grader blade I bought when I had a little 855 John Deere. They are too small for my 4310 but I have gotten plenty of use out of them. One day I may find some upgrades. As I do I will sell what I have. I'd be willing to bet I sell them for dang near what I paid new for them since prices have doubled.

My grader is a Kodiak brand offset with the slots. You loosen the bolts and slide it to one side or the other. With my current tractor it still doesn't really get outside my track. The pivot has worn to the extent I had to replace the pin with a bolt. If I want to rotate it I have to remove the bolt and nut then tighten them back down. I have had it loosen and slide out to the the extreme of the offset slot when I used it in a position other than straight on. I re-centered and leveled it the other day and tightened it with my 1" impact so maybe it will stay put. I don't recomend this model but if it's what you have you can grade a road with it. It's just going to take more time than it would with a better blade.
 

Sawyer Rob

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I moved up to a Bush Hog 90-08, and it IS an 8 way blade...

It's built quilt quite heavy, and I got it for a good price because the dealer had set on it, for quite a while.

I'm with the "buy once, cry once" crowd...

SR
 

nisaacs

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I have a 7' Frontier with hydraulic offset, I really like it. The tilt and angle is manual. As you can tell by the weeds, I don't use it much:)

0914211440.jpg
 

airbiscuit

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The OP has a Kubota B2650. He's not going ti add rear remotes and hang a 1,000# blade on the back. He can do th efollowing:

  1. Buy once, cry once - get what he really wants $$$
  2. Find a used, good quality slider that's in his budget and start working now $$ (sell it for what he paid for it later if he chooses)
  3. Wait,wait, wait to find a good used offset blade - no fun in the meantime

 

RickB

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Bush Hog makes a nice medium duty blade with all three manual adjustments that would match well with a B2650. Others surely do too.
 

oosik

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I bought a new Rhino 950 to go with my M6040. It has offset, tilt and angle - all are manual. This rear blade weighs 1050# and is 96" wide. I use offset and angle all the time. Gets the blade out beyond the rear tire. There are a couple places on my mile long gravel driveway where there is a significant drop off. Very close to the driven path. I do not like taking unnecessary chances.

I only use tilt when cleaning the driveway ditches.
 

BackRoad

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Mr. Sawyer Rob, what is an 8-way? Not questioning, just keenly interested.

My understanding is a 6-way typically allows for a combination of:

Angle - blade swings around a center vertical axis to allow pushing or pulling, such as commonly used to plow snow towards a ditch...

Tilt - blade edge can be rotated on a horizontal axis, so the the blade can be tilted up or down such as for cleaning out ditches or adjusting crown on a road...

Offset - blade can be angled at the 3PH end, to offset the blade to the left or right behind the tractor...

The only other thing I can think of is angle of attack, such as adjusting the length of the top link to make the blade edge to cut more or less aggressive, (although that's not really inherent to the blade).

What other adjustment is on an 8-way blade?
 

fried1765

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Wow....the price of those blades has risen dramatically!
I bought that EA blade in the 72" size, for about $300 less, just 4 years ago.
They are still very likely the most blade bang for the buck!
The offset requires no sliding.

I have had 3 other blades!
Nothing was as easy to use, or as effective, as the EA blade is.
 
Last edited:

ctgoldwing

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I ended up with this EA 72" Extreme blade
It has been used extensively for snow removal and trimming my gravel driveway. The offset is an absolute necessity for me when working on the driveway. The grade was raised 10' to accommodate the driveway. Going over the edge is a two wrecker call - just ask one of our friends who came to look at the house while under construction.
Without the offset I could never get close enough to the edges. One caution tho - with a big load on the blade while it is offset will tend to crab the tractor.
 

Sawyer Rob

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Mr. Sawyer Rob, what is an 8-way? Not questioning, just keenly interested.

My understanding is a 6-way typically allows for a combination of:

Angle - blade swings around a center vertical axis to allow pushing or pulling, such as commonly used to plow snow towards a ditch...

Tilt - blade edge can be rotated on a horizontal axis, so the the blade can be tilted up or down such as for cleaning out ditches or adjusting crown on a road...

Offset - blade can be angled at the 3PH end, to offset the blade to the left or right behind the tractor...

The only other thing I can think of is angle of attack, such as adjusting the length of the top link to make the blade edge to cut more or less aggressive, (although that's not really inherent to the blade).

What other adjustment is on an 8-way blade?
On a dozer 6 way blade, up down is counted, as there is no "offset"...

SO, up/ down is also counted on a back blade, to make the 8.

(actually, it's the offset that makes the 8}

SR
 

RickB

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On a dozer 6 way blade, up down is counted, as there is no "offset"...

SO, up/ down is also counted on a back blade, to make the 8.

(actually, it's the offset that makes the 8}

SR
So tilting the blade via toplink or other adjustment on the blade itself makes it a 10 way blade? 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

Fladogman

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now it's becoming a challenge to count up the ways to adjust lol. I have the hydraulic top link so I'm going with the 10 way.
 

Zebrafive

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I have a 6 way WOODS RB 800 blade for sale in Southwest MI, all manual, no hydraulics. Width is 8 foot.
I bought a bigger tractor, so I also bought a bigger blade, rather than damage this one.
$800
 

Smokeydog

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I had a slider that I wore out in a couple of decades. Bolts could never keep the blade in place well. Was at the Kubota dealer for an used equipment auction. Used blades were going for more than I thought they were worth. Wander over to the new equipment section looking at new offset blades. Salesman priced woods and bush hog the same. While I was trying to decide which one was better a Woods rep happen come over to talk to salesman. The woods blade thickness was slightly thicker. He dropped the price on the woods $150. So that’s what I got. So much better than what I had. Getting the correct geometry for grading and heavier blade so important in getting the results you want. Only regret was not upgrading sooner.

Any grading requires lots of adjustments. The old Ford 850 and Kubota M5030 could make side link adjustments from the seat were tremendously helpful. New cuts have turnbuckle type. Upgraded the B26 to an aftermarket gearbox sidelink.
 

marhar

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I have been looking and looking for an offset rear blade for quite a while with no luck on the used market. I mean the offset which is adjusted by pulling the pin up, rotating the whole rear assembly, and then putting the pin back in. I am well aware that a lot of of the rear blades have offset adjustments in the blade, in which you unbolt it, shift it over to the distance you desire, and then bolt the blade back in. I am also aware that the rear blades do tilt, to angle them, pulling materials in, or pushing it away.

Where I reside, we have an old railbed, which has been neglected for far too long, and it now has most of the rocks pushed to the side or the hump in the middle. I also have a 200 foot gravel driveway I maintain.

Goal is to get the blade out past the tires and able to pull the pushed aside gravel back into the tire tracks on the railbed, and to push snow away from the edge of my driveway.

Is the bolt and unbolting of the blade to adjust the offset THAT big of a pain in the butt, or is the discount in cost and increase in availability well worth it?

Thanks in advance you giant wealth of knowledge.
Take a look at Everything Attachments. Their blades are easy to pull a pin to rotate. to offset and to change the angle. They are even made in the USA. When I ordered mine they offered free shipping. The folks there were easy to work with.
 

RancherGuy

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Buy once and cry once. That is a great quote, and it does make sense. Thank you for that.

And time and convenience, for sure, the ability to just lift the pin out, turn it, and pin back in and done.

I actually don't PLAN on having to move the offset quite frequently, like not on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis by any means. But on a job by job basis, however often that occurs.

I suppose it comes down to, is what is my price for convenience, when I do need it.
The replies here should be a good help in your selection. 25 years ago I bought my first tractor and at the time the salesman also sold me on a 10 ft Rhino HD rear blade at the same time. Absolutely no regrets. On my ranch it has been unbelievably useful. Not constantly, but a great asset. I bought it with zero hydraulics. 10 years later I laid out the money to outfit it with 4 cylinders for those actions, and added controls to operate off of 3 rear remotes - the cost was an added $1,000 as I recall.

So, you have a decision. As I see it, do you buy a blade that is expensive but does all that you want, or not? Do you see use beyond the railroad rock? If your biggest desire is just the rock, consider the ROI. Is your money better spent renting something to do the job, hire someone to do the job, or buying the truckload(s) that you desire? 200 feet of driveway is not a big project. If your time is free or you prefer spending an afternoon with your tractor, you might consider taking your tractor with FEL and "back dragging" the rock up to center of the railroad bed instead of going all fancy with a blade.
 

Yard Sarge

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I agree EA makes a good looking blade but I didn't want to wait that long. I ended up buying a Rhino 70-07 and added hydraulic cylinder to offset it.
 

oosik

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With my FitRite hydraulic top link - my Rhino 950 is ten way adjustable. Eight of the ways are manual. Otherwise it would look like an octopus out back.
 

airbiscuit

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If you could get your front wheels to lean like a Road Grader, you could have a 12 way adjustable blade!

 

airbiscuit

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Ooh, ooh, ARTICULATE and Lean, and you have a 14 way adjustable!

 
  
  • Thread Starter
#42  
OP
B

Bronco82

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As I see it, do you buy a blade that is expensive but does all that you want, or not? Do you see use beyond the railroad rock? If your biggest desire is just the rock, consider the ROI. Is your money better spent renting something to do the job, hire someone to do the job, or buying the truckload(s) that you desire? 200 feet of driveway is not a big project. If your time is free or you prefer spending an afternoon with your tractor, you might consider taking your tractor with FEL and "back dragging" the rock up to center of the railroad bed instead of going all fancy with a blade.
I think so.
I definitely do.
Renting is not an option where I live, nor is hiring someone else to do it. I have considered approaching the local Polaris, Yamaha and Suzuki dealer and asking if they wanted to go half on one, or toss any money in towards one, kind of a sponsorship idea to maintain the local trails.
I thoroughly enjoy tractor time doing "work", but back dragging the material from both sides back in is definitely not an option. The rail bed goes on for miles and miles, with some sections getting quite grown in. I enjoy working smarter not harder.

I appreciate all the replies. For something like this, I too am of the opinion of buy once and cry once. It is something that I do only plan on buying once, and having for the rest of my life, so I have to bite the bullet and go with what I want from the beginning and not having buyers remorse should I go with what I don't want, but that will suffice every single time I go to use it.

I have seen two go by for $850 Canadian, so they DO come up, I was just hoping for that deal of a lifetime. Looks like I'll be jumping on the next one.
 

CoyPatton

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Many dozers these days have THAT option, so........maybe ?. lol

SR

If it is not a function of the implement it does not count in its adjustments!
You are attempting to apply tractor functions to the implement as if that function leaves the tractor with the implement!
I call
Foul!
 

dadohead

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When I bought my JD2520 in 2011 I also bought a new Frontier RB2072 rear blade to clear snow from my 1/4 mile lane. It could only offset by unbolting the blade, shifting, and re-attaching. What a pain. I had it a few years but ended up selling. While looking for an offset blade, I borrowed an old Land Pride from my neighbor. It didn't offset either (and wasn't QH compatible) but opened my eyes to another factor I hadn't considered: the moldboard shape.

That thing allowed my tractor to fly through SO much deeper and heavier snow.... snow just 'rolled' off of the blade. The Frontier blade shape was much flatter. The snow quickly piled up on it and wouldn't unload... the tractor was always traction limited.

Looking for an appropriate offset blade for my 2000 series (with a moldboard shape like my neighbor's ancient Land Pride) I considered all the brands and bought a Rhino 5006. It is fabulous! It is heavy for its class (400 lbs), has a deep moldboard, terrific build quality (WAY better than the Frontier at the same cost), and operates with ease. It does 80% of the snow work. The front SB handles the rest. Highly recommend for a 1000/2000 series tractor!
 
   #46  

jyoutz

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I will never again buy a rear blade without a pin offset capability. Every time I grade the gravel road or plow snow I wish that I could finish the job by reaching the edge of the road next to the ditch.
 
 
 
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