OK, who knows how to replace this?

[tracecom]

As you can see in the photo, I have damaged the rubber boots around the ends of the steering cylinders in my L3830 GST. I have replacements on order, but any advice from someone who has done the job will be appreciated.

 

[bx23barry]

While I have never done it on your tractor; you must remove the tie rod end to replace the boots.

 

[simonmeridew]

Hi Trace
I've responded to this problem in a post in the archives probably 6 weeks or less ago. However, this boot is an easy fix. You need to take out the tie rod pin then unscrew the tie rod at the obvious threads and the boot will pull right off and a new one goes right on. A couple of things: the tie rod pin is a morse taper thing, undo the big nut underneath don't be tempted to beat on the pin because you'll bugger up the threads: put a slight upward jack pressure on the horizontal part of the tie rod ***'y and tap the side of the wheel casting (the female part)but only on the side of it and it'll easily pop up. Second hint: when you unscrew the tie rod from the steering part count the number of turns and so you can screw it in the same number and keep the wheel alignment the same. I cut my boot with a little over 2 hours on the tractor, not too impressed. Boot was bout $10. or so
simonmeridew

 

[Egon]

Again an interm job for Duct tape!

There are tie rod pullers. Some people call them pickle forks.

From the picture if the nut with the yellow on it is loosened the shaft may just turn out from the tie rod end elliminating the tie rod removal. Make sure you keep close track of distances as this shaft is also used to adjust the steering.

 

[bx23barry]

Whi;e a pickel fork will get break loose the taper it will/may also distroy the boot/seal on the joint. No big deal is replacing the tie rod which come with to boot but those boots are seldom available alone. The better way to loosen the taper is to take the nut off, turn it over (castle side first), screw it down so it is just above the end of the threads (this is all to protect the threads, you want to push on the nut), put a jack under the nut, lift the wheel just off the ground and wack the arm where the tie rod end goes through it with a good size hammer. The taper will pop apart pretty easy with no damage.

 

[tracecom]

I think I see the problem leading to the destruction of the dust covers. From the attached pages from the L3830 parts manual, it seems that the metal cylinder covers (ref. 120 in the drawings) have been redesigned. The old metal covers look like they completely covered the rubber boots, but the new style cylinder covers leave the rubber boots exposed. I wonder why?

P.S. Simon, I read your other post on this subject. Interesting.

 

[tracecom]

Thanks to the suggestions from members here, I successfully replaced the dust covers. The only part that took a lot of "headscratching" was getting the retaining ring back over the large end of the dust cover. I'm sure there must be a tool (or a trick) for it, but I didn't find either one. I just sort of threaded it around and around until it was in the right position.