Opinions, Opinions

[NCMau]

My Massey 202 (industrial 35) tractor has a loader which is powered via a selector valve , by the onboard pump (I believe 4gpm). The loader is not as fast as it could be with an external pump, but it is adequate for my occasional usage.

I would like to add an hydraulic powered 30" deck as a side loader attachment to be able to trim several hundred feet of tree hedges of wood trails.

I have an Eaton motor P/N 101 1704 009 which, according to the specs, is rated at 10 gpm/1021 rpm. Since this attachment would be used probably only once a year, I would rather not install an auxiliary pump.

So my questions are: can I get by not using an auxiliary pump, and what do I need to control the deck motor? Also, would I need the full 10 gpm motor capacity to run the deck? The deck working load is actual minimal. It consist only of thin branches.

 

[kennyd]

My Massey 202 (industrial 35) tractor has a loader which is powered via a selector valve , by the onboard pump (I believe 4gpm). The loader is not as fast as it could be with an external pump, but it is adequate for my occasional usage.

I would like to add an hydraulic powered 30" deck as a side loader attachment to be able to trim several hundred feet of tree hedges of wood trails.

I have an Eaton motor P/N 101 1704 009 which, according to the specs, is rated at 10 gpm/1021 rpm. Since this attachment would be used probably only once a year, I would rather not install an auxiliary pump.

So my questions are: can I get by not using an auxiliary pump, and what do I need to control the deck motor? Also, would I need the full 10 gpm motor capacity to run the deck? The deck working load is actual minimal. It consist only of thin branches.

I believe your system has very low pressure also...I don't think you are going to get any usable work out of that motor hooked to your tractor.

 

[NCMau]

Kennyd,
this is the answer I was expecting, but I thought I ask anyway.
I need this deck attachment, so I am going to go with a PTO pump. I suppose I need some kind of variable speed control valve. I checked NH, but I am not sure of the choices.
What is an acceptable way to connect the motor to the loader control valve? A "T" before the valve input?

I welcome a suggestion. Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

I suppose I need some kind of variable speed control valve. I checked NH, but I am not sure of the choices.

You want want is called a "motor spool valve". Here is one at the SC: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6767&catname=hydraulic

What is an acceptable way to connect the motor to the loader control valve? A "T" before the valve input?

Not sure I understand this question? You will have to build a separate system, including the motor, pump, valve, tank, filter and hoses. There will be no "connection" to the loader valve.

What kind of budget are you thinking? It not gonna be cheap.

 

[KWentling]

I think by the comment that the loader is slow that he would also run the loader off the auxiliary pump. The first thing he needs to do is determine if the motor he has is going to be adequate to power a 30" mower deck. I have no Eaton info, but by the 101 prefix I think that may be in the 5 to 9 HP range so that may be marginal. What is the RPM limit for that motor? I'm thinking 1070 @ 10GPM is going to be too slow? More GPM will equal more RPM. How fast should a 30" blade turn? Twice that?

No tees on the pressure "in" side of valves. Hydraulic flow will go the route of least resistance so nothing will work. The loader valve would need to be power beyond to the valve to control the mower motor. Like Kenny said, this won't be cheap to build.

Kim

 

[NCMau]

Thank you Kenny and Kim.
Let me clarify my comments. I do have in mind to add a PTO pump, which I already have on hand.
The deck motor speed is 1021 rpm, 10 gpm and torque is 497. So with these figures, if I did my math right, the motor should develop about 8HP, which would be adequate for my purpose. The speed of 1021 rpm maybe questionable but I think it would be satisfactory for light work.

The main question was how to control this motor. I checked the link at Surplus Center, but how this valve motor work? Do I activate the lever to run the motor (hands off) than activated it again to stop it?
I have a spare control valve for my hydraulic splitter. Could I use this valve for this project?

... Or, if I am not over extending my welcome with another question. I also have a 4 spool control valve on hand that I could use instead of the existing loader 2 spool valve. Can I use one of the 4 spool section to control the deck motor? (Possibly with a modification?)

Again thank you for your patience. Just trying to increase my limited hydraulic knowledge and use parts that I have.

 

[KWentling]

You need a motor spool valve. A regular "loader or log splitter" valve will not allow a motor to coast to a stop and you risk damaging or destroying your motor from the sudden stop, especially with a inertia load like a 30" blade . I didn't look at the valve Kenny linked, but most valves would have detents that allow you to push the lever to start the motor and it would stay in that position until you return it to neutral. If you could replace one spool in your 4 spool valve with a "motor" spool you could use it. What do you plan to use for an oil reservoir? You will need at least 10 gallons, and more is better to avoid aireation and heating problems.

Kim

 

[Farmerford]

Attached are photos of a rig I built several years ago. It is a Prince 11gpm pto pump powering a Char-Lynn 4.9cu in/rev motor which drives a Bush Hog 48" Squealer rotary cutter mounted to the FEL of a Kubota L4330. I wanted to control the cutter with the pto clutch, just as if it had been connected by a driveshaft to the pto. This saved having to mount a separate motor valve at the operator's station with all the lines, plumbing etc. That spot is already pretty crowded as the third picture shows. So I ran the pump/reservoir lines directly to the motor. To address the overunning problem Kim mentions, I inserted a check valve into the circuit at the motor. The check valve is shown in the second picture. The only disadvantage is that the motor can't be reversed, but neither could the mower when driven directly from the pto.

 

[NCMau]

You need a motor spool valve. A regular "loader or log splitter" valve will not allow a motor to coast to a stop and you risk damaging or destroying your motor from the sudden stop, especially with a inertia load like a 30" blade . I didn't look at the valve Kenny linked, but most valves would have detents that allow you to push the lever to start the motor and it would stay in that position until you return it to neutral. If you could replace one spool in your 4 spool valve with a "motor" spool you could use it. What do you plan to use for an oil reservoir? You will need at least 10 gallons, and more is better to avoid aireation and heating problems.

Kim

Thanks for clearing things up, Kim. Yes, I plan to install a reservoir back of the seat.
I already have a 5 gl tank which would fit nicely, but I guess I'll be looking for a bigger one.
I think I misunderstood your statement about the 4 spool valve. How can you replace one spool for a motor application? Do you mean an internal modification or just add an external motor valve? I believe this valve came originally from a BH.

 

[NCMau]

Attached are photos of a rig I built several years ago. It is a Prince 11gpm pto pump powering a Char-Lynn 4.9cu in/rev motor which drives a Bush Hog 48" Squealer rotary cutter mounted to the FEL of a Kubota L4330. I wanted to control the cutter with the pto clutch, just as if it had been connected by a driveshaft to the pto. This saved having to mount a separate motor valve at the operator's station with all the lines, plumbing etc. That spot is already pretty crowded as the third picture shows. So I ran the pump/reservoir lines directly to the motor. To address the overunning problem Kim mentions, I inserted a check valve into the circuit at the motor. The check valve is shown in the second picture. The only disadvantage is that the motor can't be reversed, but neither could the mower when driven directly from the pto.

I like the idea of the check valve. It would work for my project because there is no need to reverse the motor. Thanks