Picking PT implements

Homebrew · Apr 25, 2006

I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on a PT 180 and I'm hoping to get some feedback on implements. I have 4 acres (mostly gentle slopes, 1 small area of steep slope) of which about 3 needs cleared of brush consisting mainly of 1 to 3 inch diameter cherry saplings and a whole lot of greenbriar. I've been cutting the trees with a chainsaw leaving many 2 to 3 foot tall stumps. There are many surface rocks ranging from small to large that really need moved before the brushhog can be used.

I currently have a riding mower and a walk behind gravely with a brush hog attachment. I have a total budget of around $8000.

Here are the main chores I'd like to accomplish:

-move brush/logs/limbs
-move mulch/gravel
-dig and move surface rocks
-dig out stumps
-dig small drainage ditches
-light grading/path-making for go-kart
-plow snow

After reading past forums it seems that the rock bucket with aftermarket teeth would probably allow me to dig the small stumps and rocks and possibly dig shallow drainage ditches. I'm also leaning toward a LMB (no teeth) for moving mulch and gravel and possibly plowing snow. I'm leaning toward the Ag tires since I'll be working mainly in the woods and brush. After taxes and delivery (I'm about 4 hours from Tazwell), that will leave somewhere around $700. Is the LMB adequate for plowing snow on a gravel driveway or should I consider the blade? I suppose another option would be to sell the gravely which would pay for the brush hog attachment. Any other implements I should be considering?

I'd appreciate any advice. I've enjoyed reading over the last years posts, but I still can't make up my mind!

Thanks,
Jeff

MuncyBob · Apr 25, 2006

I have used the rock bucket with the PT teeth and have been able to dig fairly well up here in the rocky PA dirt. I seem to remember somebody saying the LMB was made of the same material so perhaps this bucket with aftermartket tooth bar would be ideal and maybe you won't need the rock bucket?? I know the rock bucket has a "cutting lip" on it not sure about the LMB.

KentT · Apr 25, 2006

The LM bucket has the same cutting edge as the rock bucket, it seems:

However, I wonder if he'll be satisfied trying to dig out rocks and stumps with any kind of front bucket... the mini-hoe is what I'd recommend, and that would require moving up to a 422 or 425 (or do custom mods himself).

IMO, he could dig a ditch with a bucket with teeth, though it might end up wider than he'd like, but it's the other digging that really concerns me...

BillCroasmun · Apr 25, 2006

Jeff,
My concerns match KentT's with regards to removing stumps. I have the PT180 with the LMB (no toothbar yet). From my experience I don't think a smaller bucket would do much for me. The LMB has done some grading, pathmaking, moved dirt & gravel and all without seeming over stressed. It sure can use a toothbar for biting in but that would be the same as the small bucket. I don't think it would be the right tool for the job though for digging out a stump. Front buckets dig forward (slightly down over distance) where as a hoe or mini-hoe dig downward.

I was under budgetary restraints that kept me from getting a 422 but have not been disappointed at all but you have to weigh your budget against your tasks. If "downward digging" (like stump removal) is a major concern and the budget doesn't allow a 422 in your future there are probably three options:
Renting equipment as needed
. . PROS
. . . Specialized equipment is the fastest way to complete a job
. . CONS
. . . You won't have it always on hand when needed
Building a fixed curl bucket
. . PROS
. . . "Inexpensive" option. You can get a 12" bucket for around $250 and a QA plate for $125
. . . add steel for a short arm and brackets plus welding costs and your probably under $500
. . CONS
. . . Won't be as capable as a full fledge mini-hoe
Building a full fledged mini-hoe
. . PROS
. . . (See all the wonderful projects completed with mini-hoes on this forum /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
. . CONS
. . . Cost. Beechwood estimated his costs at about $1300 for building his.

As far as snow removal goes. I have used my LMB to remove snow on a 240' gravel drive and it does OK. Overall (time-spent/quality of job/etc.) it beats out shoveling and small lawn tractors with blades but does not compare to a full size truck with blade. For me it does good enough. I would probably go with the blade if time was more of a concern since I wouldn't have to stop and empty the bucket (which is pretty quick with a PT but still takes time).

Good luck on your decision!

Homebrew · Apr 25, 2006

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like I should give serious consideration to getting a 422 with LMB and mini-hoe. The LMB for moving stuff, plowing snow and light grading. And the mini-hoe for stumps and ditches. There goes the budget! I guess this would allow me to move slightly larger rocks as well.

Anyone have any feelings about which tires to get?

KentT · Apr 25, 2006

IMO, you should get the bar tires, without question since you won't be using it as your primary mower. The PTs steer by articulating, so the bar tires do not damage the turf when steering like a normal tractor. With them, being full-time 4-wheel drive, you'll very seldom spin a tire (only if you're putting down-pressure on the front attachment or pushing into a pile of dirt or something) and that's quickly corrected...

Bar tires will leave a shallow imprint on wet soil, is the ONLY conceivable negative that I can think of...

If you were going to use a PT primarily for mowing on flat land, turf tires would likely be best. For any oher than that, I'd vote for the bar tires every time, because of the "up-sides" and no "down-side"...

My 2 cents...

Barryh · Apr 25, 2006

Hi Jeff,

I would have to agree with Bill, if you have a (LOT) of small stumps to clear you may be better off with a 422 or renting additional equipment. I'm just now getting to know my 180, and putting it through it's paces around here. I'm in the process of digging up a large tree stump. Even though the 180 is doing really well, I am making a big mess digging around it.

No worries though, I'll just fill it back in when I get the stump pulled up. Just as I thought the PT will not budge the large stump. I am digging down under it, I plan to chain saw off roots as I go. I have dug up one 3- 4 inch sapling, but as stated by Bill the bucket will only dig at an angle rather than straight down which made for a big hole to go back and fill.

For all of the other tasks you mention, I think the 180 would be up to the job. I used a small converted plow from my craftsman for snow. I also used the small bucket, both worked out great. The PT drove through 12 inches of snow going up hill and across to my neighbors yard with no problems. I have turf tires.

If your anything like me, you started out looking for a larger yard tractor, but decided you wanted something that could do a lot more. For myself the 180 was the perfect price, and size for (my) needs. Fits in my garage perfect. I couldn't justify spending any more for my 1 plus acre. If you have read through most of these threads, then you have a lot of great information.

I'm sure you already know which PT meets your budget, and is right (For You). Thats all that counts. Good Luck.

tracdoc · Apr 25, 2006

( Anyone have any feelings about which tires to get)

imo, the bar tires are the best choice, bar none /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif for all the reasons already given. They are higher ply rated than the turfs, which translates to less damage potential when working in the woods. I treated my bars with the "bulletproof" grade of Ultraseal which I purchased from Gemplers, and I've had no flats. I finish mow ~3 Ac, and the bar tires leave zero marks on the turf.....nuff said.

On the question of buckets, I would definitely favor the LMB over the smaller rock bucket. This has been noted by Forum members here again and again. A good after-market toothbar, like a Markham will give you the best versatility. I have been using this setup for several months and it is "the bees knees." The only concern with the LMB is to avoid overloading it when you are moving rocks or gravel. The LMB is made of the same materials and has the same edge as the smaller rock bucket, but if you fill the LMB to overflowing with dense materials like gravel, sooner or later you will see sagging of the bottom or other signs of metal fatigue. Remove 2 bolts, and your toothbar is off so you can use the LMB for snow removal.

On your quandary of the 180 vs the 422, I wish I could give you a solid recommendation. I like 'em both. Me thinks that the 180 would be up to any tasks you've noted, AND have a solid margin of reserve. But that's just my $0.02. Another $3.50 and you could get a tasty Starbucks concoction /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Go Mountaineers! I lived in Morgantown for some 10 years--great people and a wonderful place to live.

Phils · Apr 26, 2006

"...but if you fill the LMB to overflowing with dense materials like gravel, sooner or later you will see sagging of the bottom or other signs of metal fatigue." 

With a load like that you'll also likely experience the 'PT Pucker Factor'. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Phil

BAGTIC · Apr 28, 2006

If you are working in the woods I would recommend going with the heaviest tire available. In less than 100 hours I have had three flats. The first two were due to broken valve stems. I had them replaced with shorter stems. The last flat was a puncture of the SIDEWALL. I have never before had that happen with any vehicle.