Pickup fuel pump replacement - lifting bed

[not2old]

Go from the top or expect crap / dirt / rust in your face. Remove the fuel filler tube, wires connectors and tailgate. Put the rear axle on blocks and remove the rear tires. Three people can lift / slide the box enough to get to the fuel tank pump. The box will sit on the frame but may need a couple wood blocks to help hold it. The box only weighs 300 / 400 pounds depending upon 6 or 8 ft. I’ve done this before and is 100x easier than laying on your back. Last one was a F150. Start to finish - 3 hours and no in my face / eyes.

In addition to this, it makes it very easy to position wiring and hoses so that you can be sure they will be secure and not rub on thing they aren't supposed to.

 

[newbury]

Very interesting. I need to take the bed off on my F350 dually and replace the bed rails AND the fuel pump.

this tool is a god send if you have the room to use it, send shocks down the bolt, instead of twisting.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Tools...afa4ef3491f6e&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

This tool sounds like it will come in handy.

On my 1990 F250 with 8' box, I used two 6' step ladders and a 2x2 steel bar between them with ratchet straps hooked into the holes just below the top of the box. I used more straps to attach the 2x2 to the ladders. My straps are twice as thick as the typical cheap ones. At the rear I used ratchet straps hooked to the bucket on my tractor. Be sure to have some saw horses available if your loader slowly sinks like mine. I did this job alone with no help and didn't experience any problems. Lifting each corner a few inches at a time was easier than you might think.

NIce to read so many have few problems.

 

[1M05]

In addition to this, it makes it very easy to position wiring and hoses so that you can be sure they will be secure and not rub on thing they aren't supposed to.

True.

 

[boatmoter]

UPDATE 5/22 - I changed the fuel pump, and broke my utv now

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Hey guys I need to replace the fuel pump on my 06 Ram 2500 short bed. I've gone back and forth debating which method to access the tank - drop the tank or lift the bed? I'm still on the fence but could use a few questions answered to help me choose if yall don't mind?

First, how do I rig the bed to use the tractor to lift it? Do I used chains or ratchet straps? If so, where do I attach? Corner pockets or down at the corner tie downs?

Or instead should I use a lifting bar setup of some kind to support under the bed rails? Like those H-shaped bed lifts? Do they have to be metal or could a 2x4 jig be fabbed?

Backfilling some other info here on the rest of the scenario...

As for the tractor, I've got pallet forks or I can remove the forks from the SSQA mount and use the lifting shackle on the receiver hitch slot. Tires are filled w beet juice and I've got a box blade attached. I'm confident there's enough counter weight for the lightweight stock box (probably several hundred pounds?). I plan to remove the cross bed tool box. It has a few items in it, not heavy, but enough to cause a balance issue when lifting.

If I drop the tank I do have several floor jacks to assist. I have a Badlands 3T offroad jack and a Strongway motorcycle lift jack. Some assorted bottle jacks too. I would be working outside on an uneven caliche driveway, no flat cement here.

As for the truck, I've calculated I have 13-15 gallons of diesel left in the 34 gallon tank and don't have any place to transfer the fuel too. The fuel in the truck is treated w tcw3/atf for the 5.9 and I cannot run it in the tractor nor the 07.5 6.7 truck. And I think my utv is mostly full w a 7gal tank. I've only got a 5gal diesel jug on hand. I could go buy more jugs, didn't want to, but I could...

Anyway, that's the scenario I'm working with. Help on ready-ing the bed would be great. Or if you've done this before, I'm ears.

when I was in the work force at the shop we used to lift the bed of,1 tech on each corner and set it to the side on floor. a few yrs ago we did a friends dodge 3500 and removed all bolts on bed and unpluged light harness and put 2 extra long bolt in right front and lright rear of bed and used a chain hoist to tilt the bed up using the top center pocket hole on top of the bed side. tilt up and replace pump,test out, if ok, lower bed,the 2 long bolts will guide it back into the proper spot, but only screw the extra long bolts in about 5 turns so it doesn't restrict the bed from tilting

 

[Squirrel's242]

when I was in the work force at the shop we used to lift the bed of,1 tech on each corner and set it to the side on floor. a few yrs ago we did a friends dodge 3500 and removed all bolts on bed and unpluged light harness and put 2 extra long bolt in right front and lright rear of bed and used a chain hoist to tilt the bed up using the top center pocket hole on top of the bed side. tilt up and replace pump,test out, if ok, lower bed,the 2 long bolts will guide it back into the proper spot, but only screw the extra long bolts in about 5 turns so it doesn't restrict the bed from tilting

I saw that method and in fact I leaned towards doing that. Looks like it'd be easy to put the bed back down right where it needed to go. I dropped the tank this go round, it was just too hot that day and I was working in the dirt. Disassembly was not bad. Reassembly was a lot of wrestling. Next time I'll do a bed lift of some kind just for the reassembly of not needing to lift the tank back in place.