PowerTrac Specific Modifications

[ponytug]

So, I picked up a power broom and an auger at auction. I needed the broom for a construction project, and realized that renting one was going to be 2/3rds the cost of a new one. The only issue was that the attachments were for skidsteers.

So, I made a PT QA to skid steer quick attach plate.



I bought the SSQA locking mechanisms off of eBay. At $99, I can’t build it for that price (3/8” steel).

I put 1/4” plate between the two ready made ends, cutting the plate to match the curves in the lock mechanism plates and added a 2”x2”x 3/8” heavy wall square tube to reinforce the bottom and to tip the Power-Trac quick attach out ten degrees or so to better match the PT’s curl range of motion. The PT QA portion is flat 1/4” plate with 3/8” rim and a bevel cut piece of 3/4” round stock as the top retaining lip. (That was a production as the rim has an extended bend that I couldn't quite reproduce. I ended up cutting my bent to shape rim and welding in a little extra metal to broaden the curve. I am sure that someone more skilled than I am would have been able to do this faster and better.) I tacked it together and made the mistake of lifting with it. (I got excited and wasn’t thinking.) That bent the top of the middle plate a bit so I removed the bend and added a 1/4” bar across the top to reinforce it. Probably unnecessary with all the other full welds in place, but I thought why risk it?


(It is leaning on the broom, so it looks crooked, but isn't.)

I’m still working out how to best adjust the springs on the locking assembly. The other minor thing that I did was remove the original grease zerks as they were a small metric variety in a location that was going to be a problem for my uses. I welded the old openings shut and then drilled new holes and tapped new NPT threads in a better location for standard US zerks.

I may make another plate for my auger. I have some concerns about overall weight of the auger and adapter, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.



The broom in the photos is supposedly 800-ish pounds, but with the weight so far in front, it is close to the limit of my 1445. The broom also came with a snazzy AB/straight through/BA solenoid to run the left / right swivel angle off of the main PTO power. I elected to bypass it and just use the PT QA/QC fittings in a dedicated circuit for the angle and run the PT PTO directly to the motor. I am considering using it as a reverse for the broom, if that turns out to be important. Otherwise, I plan to just sell the system to someone who needs a +/- function from a full flow hydraulic.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

I made one for my 1430, shown with the boom and one for my 1460 which is a lot heavier. Both started out as 3pt hitch to SSQA adapters.

 

[ponytug]

@m5040 so how are the springs on the pins supposed to be set/adjusted? I am wondering if I was supposed to weld a stop 10-15 degrees past BDC.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

Mine came all put together. But they are like a dump truck tail gate hook. It should push the pin down and go just a slight amount past, starting to raise up and stop there. That way they can't disengage unless they get tighter first.

 

[ponytug]

Thanks, that is what I suspected. Time to weld on some stops, just past the point the pins go in.

All the best,

Peter

 

[DTTNWO]

Hitting your head on the ROP during entry/exit:

Get some 3/4 inch split foam pipe insulation and place it on the offending area of impact.

 

[SpringHollow]

Split rubber hose works well too. I used that until I learned to duck.

 

[cqaigy2]

I used to have the pipe insulation on the edge, but it all got rubbed off.

From tree limbs, not my head...

 

[MossRoad]

Aww, just keep a whacking my noggin on it over and over. Eventually your skull toughens up. You just can't stand too close to the microwave oven when it's on...

 

[CreativeGuy]

I bought a front hoe with the Toro Dingo attach plate. All I needed to do to make it work with my PT425 was to cut a notch in the top and cut the two rectangle holes in the bottom for the locking mechanism.