Project Root Cellar ......out of a 8' tall x 14' metal culvert

[forgeblast]

Would you burn off the coating with the torch though?

 

[GLyford]

Well, how about this, instead of opening it up far enough to lay down, cut it and open it up enough still standing on end to fit in the framing for your rough opening (or maybe one of those metal framed industrial doors). Frame above to desired height. Might not get you a lot of extra room, but it'd be some?

If I calculated right, 3' door opening would take it from 8' to 9' diameter...? (quick edit, I had the length and height reversed)

 

[radioman]

forget the door-- its gonna be fun making half moon shelves and a second floor to fit. What kind of wood will you be using? recycled palletwood? wood crates from sign company? milling your own with chainsaw?

 

[GLyford]

In the modified 9', ten sections of shelves, 12" wide and 2' long would leave you a full 3' for at the door. Knock the two front corners off 3/4 in from each end and 2-1/2" back, and they'll almost touch. At the back, they'll gap enough for a 2x4 upright flat against the wall. Run the shelf support "rungs" flat, and there would be more than enough support for the shelves. If paranoid about them flipping out, run a screw in near the front on each end.

In the unaltered 8', still ten sections of shelves, but now cut them at 21-1/2", and knock half of each end off at 30 degrees. On the supports, now the edge is against the wall. If you half lap the shelf supports it would look something like this.

In either case there would be a surprisingly small gap at the back. Certainly less that shelves on an open stud wall, and people do that all the time.

I wouldn't bother with a loft, I'd just run the shelves full height and keep a 6' stepladder in there. Use it folded and leaning on the shelves. Two steps before the top and you'll be hitting your head, and still have the top of the ladder to hold on to.

 

[GLyford]

BTW, why would he need a chainsaw, he's got the sawmill...after all, he built a cabin with it.

 

[Rustyiron]

Side hill & doorway. Make the cut 8-10" off the bottom, drain pipe to daylight, then fill with gravel. I can cut it out with a zip saw, insulate both sides with 2" high density foam. Didn't get a chance to tip it up yet....maybe today.........

I like it!
A buddy built a more conventional one with block/wood into a hill and used saw dust for insulation in the block core & backfill. I'd think about welding or bolting on your shelving supports while it's laying down. Much easier access to both sides to either have someone hold a wrench on a bolt and to tar over any loss of galv. by welding, or seal a bolt hole.
Have you researched what you'll need for ventilation?

 

[MotorSeven]

Well guys a few months ago I sold the sawmill. I was planning on buying a hydraulic(Woodmizer LT35), but my neighbor 2 miles down the road bought a brand new Hyd LT40. So, for now, when I need something I will just pay him to mill it.

No loft & shelves all the way up?...that is a thought...I'll have to ponder that a bit. I am gathering the steel for the roof form/pour....pic's as soon as I get 'em.

 

[Happy Gilmore]

Really cool project, looking forward to the progress

 

[MotorSeven]

BH guy arrived Sunday:

This is the walk out side and drainage pipe trench:

Starting on the 8x8 hole now;

 

[MotorSeven]

Checking measurments:

Drain tile in out to daylight:

Swinging the culvert in:

Phone battery died after that last shot...more to follow. I decided to form up and pour retainer walls on either side of the entrance door along with a concrete entryway roof. For the roof of the "silo", I ordered a 8.5x8.5' corrugated steel bridge concrete form form a local lumber yard...$220 and it should be here tomorrow. I picked up 6 - 3/4 sheets of ply and a bunch of 2x4's today and will start building the forms this AM.