PT425 choke cable length?

   #1  

MossRoad

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Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
My choke cable finally bit the dust. It's seized up. With work, I have freed it up a couple times and lubricated it, but it still freezes up after I shut it off and let it sit for a few days. If I get it running, after about half an hour, the cable is nice and loose, but I don't need it nice and loose once it's running, now do I! :laughing:

So, I want to replace it. Does anyone know the length? I'd like to know it before taking it out. I don't know why. It has to come out anyway. :confused3:
 
   #2  

Frank Sorbello

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Don't the know the exact size, but I do remember I replaced both throttle and choke a couple years ago. I got them from Power Trac and weren't as expensive as I thought they were going to be.
 
  
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MossRoad

MossRoad

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Throttle cable stopped working yesterday, too. Called Power Trac this morning. About $27 for each cable. I ordered a pair. Should be here in a couple days.
 
   #5  

SpringHollow

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I recently bought a spare for my tractor - they send it with the blade for the handle etc, not just a cable.

Ken
 
  
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MossRoad

MossRoad

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Yep. He said it's the complete assembly, not just the cable. Said it's best to cut off the old end under the dash, tape that cut end to the business end of the new cables, and use the old one to pull the new one through to the carb area. Sounds so simple.....

:laughing:

We'll see how that goes.

Most of the trees decided to dump the leaves two days ago, and it snowed on top of them. So I can't really pick them up right now anyway, so if I had to pick a good down time, this is it.
 
  
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MossRoad

MossRoad

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Cables arrived Wednesday night. I put them in today. Not too hard but not too easy, either. The machine screws and nylon nuts that hold the throttle and choke lever assemblies on are kinda tricky. They are the same size, but for some reason, they used short screws on the throttle assembly, and long screws with 1/2" spacers on the choke assembly.
:confused3:
I don't know why. A 1/4" drive 3/8" socket on a 4" extension was used to hold the nylon nuts from underneath while a flat blade screwdriver was used to take the screws out. Not too bad.

I had to pry the old cables out of the lever assemblies as they were in a slotted bracket that was crimped down. Again, to too bad.

I taped the new cable ends (the carb ends) onto the disconnected old cable ends, overlapping the bent wires and using a good amount of electrical tape.

Started pulling the first cable through from the carb end, and it went really well for a couple feet, then hit something and stopped. Investigation reveals a large, thick tie-wrap around all the hoses and cables that goes into the tunnel. It was just before that protective wrap that goes around everything. I snipped off the tie wrap and was able to pull it another 18" and came to another stop.

I marked the old cable in the rear tub area just past the tunnel with a silver sharpie marker and pulled the cable back out to the front until I could see my silver mark. I wanted to see how far into the rear of the tunnel the blockage was. It was only 2" from the rear of the tunnel. I reached in the tunnel from the rear, but could feel nothing.

So I pulled it back in until it stopped again. Then, on a hunch, I pulled in the 2nd new cable. It, too, stopped at the same point. However, with a little firm pulling, it came through the rear of the tunnel with another tie-wrap that was wrapped around just the choke and throttle cables. I snipped it off and all was well.

Pulled in both cables, attached them to the carb, and went to mount the levers under the dash.

I put a piece of tape jammed into the socket to hold the nut up towards the top of the socket, and was able to easily start the nuts on all four screws. However, I had to switch to a deep-well socket to tighten up the nuts on the long screws. I skipped the a 1/2" spacers on the long screws, as I saw no need for them.

Finally, I secured the cables with the clamp-down bracket at the carb, making sure the levers were all the way forward (off) and the throttle was all the way closed and the choke all the way open.

Put a couple tie-wraps back on at the carb end as well.

Then I tested them and it fired up OK.

I will have to get some heat shielding wrap for the throttle and choke cables, as I cannot get the old heat shielding off the old cables and re-use it. The cables pass pretty close to the left exhaust header, and it is definately needed.

I'll also get a large tie-wrap and reinstall one around the hoses and cables where I took the old one off.

All-in-all, it took me about 2 hours. I wish they wouldn't have tie-wrapped the two cables together inside the tunnel. Other than that, it was a piece of cake. :laughing:

I hope this info is useful for anyone else that might want to do it. Sorry, no pictures. My hands were filthy and I didn't want to touch my phone. :rolleyes:
 
  
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MossRoad

MossRoad

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Sooooooo.......

:laughing:

I put the knobs on the throttle and choke levers today since I figured everything is going to work OK now. I started the tractor up just fine and went to drive back it out of the garage to go pick up my leaves today. And when I started backing out and turned the wheel to the left, the tractor started to die. So I started to pull forward and turn to the right and the engine picked up speed again. So I started backing out to the left again and the engine started to die, so I started moving forward and to the right and the engine picked up speed again. Repeat 7-8 times.....

What the heck!?? :confused3:

Well, I found out what those 1/2" spacers under the choke control are for! It lowers the choke control so it doesn't hit the steering wheel spoke each time you turn the wheel!

:laughing:

I didn't experience that problem earlier because I didn't put the knobs on when testing. I removed the choke knob to get my leaves done. I'll put the spacers and long screws on the choke cable fixture later.
 
 
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