pto snowblower size?

Farmer495

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How much weight do you have total with the loaded rears? I'm still trying to figure out what the magic weight/width ratio for snowblowers is. Another thread seemed to say you want at least 5 PTO HP / foot of snowblower width.



Each snowfall normally isn't enormous, its the drift that happens that really closes the driveway. I honestly couldn't tell you how much I get, but I'll attach pictures of one of the worst days last winter. GRANTED, this is the result of plowing for 2+ months and creating berms which just aggravate the drifting issue.

Tractor weighs around 8500lb with loader and 78" HD bucket + weight of snow blower. More than heavy enough for 78", others near me run an 84" on same size of tractor. The 84" usually are taller and bigger fan, might move more snow and take more power, but they were way more money when I priced. (50% more)

You can carry the blower off the ground to put all weight on the drive wheels until final clean up/

I ran a different 78" on a much smaller 38 PTO HP 2wd with no chains with minimal complaints.

64 PTO HP plays with 78" I usually end up pushing snow with the blower without tractor lugging down.

For what you are picturing worst day with drifts, I'd have no issue with my set up. 3-4 foot tall drifts for long distances do require some extra work to open up first pass.
 

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JJT

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I'm running a 78" AgroTrend blower with 30 pto horses, no issues for 25 years. Fortunately I have HST and can creep into the snow banks. We see snow storms from 4" to 4'. I plowed with a tractor and a truck for years, I'll never go back to a plow. No snowbanks and I only have to move snow once.
 

LouNY

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I have two blowers they are both just a bit wider then the tractors.
snowblower 8.jpg


blower 1.jpg

I like both blowers, the inverted works quite well on 20" or less more then 24" I would be concerned about riding up then digging a hole and high centering the tractor. A person could easily back up into a deep drift 5-6 feet then pull ahead.

I do run chains all of the time in the winter.
IMG_20151228_135705794.jpg
 
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MinnesotaMorg

MinnesotaMorg

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8500lb with loader and 78" HD bucket + weight of snow blower. More than heavy enough for 78"

I think I should be fine for weight then, as long as I stick to the 72-84" size. For chains I'll go a winter without and see if I need them.

I have two blowers they are both just a bit wider then the tractors.

What is your rear facing snowblower? It looks nice
 

LouNY

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I have no idea what the brand is it's quite heavy and tall, it was old and used when I bought it.
I think this was the brand not sure I haven't figured it out;
snowblower brand 2.jpg

It does seem to be a decently well built unit.
 

Farmer495

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I think I should be fine for weight then, as long as I stick to the 72-84" size. For chains I'll go a winter without and see if I need them.

Good plan, I haven't needed chains yet with 4wd. I do a lot of road travel in winter so sort of rules them out.

I do run chains on a 2wd loader tractor, they make a huge difference between being tractor useless and useful.
 
  
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MinnesotaMorg

MinnesotaMorg

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Does anyone have any opinion on open gear box vs oil bath?

I think I talked to one rep and he stated that the oil bath will last longer and less maintenance etc. How often do you need to lubricate open gears? Maybe open gear is fine for my own use?

1652568576453.png
 

Farmer495

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Does anyone have any opinion on open gear box vs oil bath?

I think I talked to one rep and he stated that the oil bath will last longer and less maintenance etc. How often do you need to lubricate open gears? Maybe open gear is fine for my own use?

View attachment 745878

The actual gear box that the PTO shaft on the tractor connects to the fan and auger drive should be oil bath anyways, at least it was on all the ones I've looked at. The auger drive is typically open sprockets and roller chain on the end of the auger, but I've seen some augers driven off the center of the fan with an enclosed gear box. I've had no issues with chain drive auger, keep chain tight and oiled.
 

CH4Ohio

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Buy a blower the width of the tractor, no narrower, but not much wider.

I have MK Martin. I run 78" on 64 PTO HP It's exactly the width of the tractor and was a lot cheaper than an 84".

4wd means next to zero need for chains. I do not run chains, loaded rears with cast wheels. I clear several houses plus farm yard every storm.

Creeper gearing is not necessary, most newer tractors, lowest reverse gear on proper sized blower usually sufficient with minimal clutching unless you are in really deep snow.

Once first pass is done you can take part width passes.

Get hyd rotate and tip (two remotes)

I hardly use loader for snow removal, just back dragging from doors or if I need to scrape with down pressure.

What are your average snow events? 6" or 24" for example?


I agree with the above. Have had a 64" and an 84" rear blower on several tractors.

Get a blower that covers your rear wheel tracks with a little overhang. I really don't think trying to go any wider buys you anything in the long run. This is the most nimble maneuverable configuration and maximizes your ability to power the blower in the heaviest snow.

I never run chains. Have never needed chains on a 4WD tractor. Can't understand why they'd be needed on a driveway. The few times that I've gotten stuck was because I dropped a tire into a ditch or a hole -- chains wouldn't help. And I've always been able to use the loader to push or pull myself out of those situations.

I bought one blower new and one used. The used one was kept in a barn, was like new, and less than half price of a new one. I looked for quite a while and was ready to pounce when I found it. Snowblowers, especially self-propelled ones, are often bought right after a big snowstorm and then get very little use -- at least in this part of the country.

Good luck with it.
 
 
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