"Pulling" tractors

Laminarman · Jun 11, 2006

\"Pulling\" tractors

I hear a lot of talk about older tractors being better for "pulling". For example I really struggle plowing my hard earth with my 40 HP NH TC40DA and 2-14 plow. I have the industrial tires. The dude across the street pulls a 2-14 (Dearborn?) with an old 9N like it was butter on the ground. Just curious if it's gearing, tires, weight, or if they design the new CUTs as PTO devices mainly.

Farmwithjunk · Jun 11, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

The primary use of a tractor, back when they first started appearing on farms, was to pull a plow. Breaking ground. The more things beyond doing basic tillage they were capable of, the better. As time went on, plowing was only a small part, but still the benchmark of a "good tractor".

Somewhere along the way, that changed as the most important thing about a tractor.

Then the compact tractor market came along. Plowing wasn't even a real consideration when most of 'em were designed.

Over-all weight plays a difference. Weight bias, even on 4WD tractors. DRAFT CONTROL- The thing that gave a little tractor the ability to do more than a much bigger tractor. Tires. Gearing. Lugging ability.

The 2-bottom plow I have needs to be centered behind a tractor with the rear wheels set 46" to 48" apart. That centeres the draft line, and keeps the right wheel in the previous furrow. Most compacts I've seen don't NORMALLY have their wheels spaced 48" apart. That has a profound effect on how easy a plow pulls too.

Toolguy · Jun 11, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

What do you "struggle" with? Is it traction or power? You should have plenty of power to pull a 2-14" plow. If you have traction problems then you don't have enough weight or, those R-4 tires don't have enough grip. Also, how deep are you plowing? A 14" plow is designed to plow 7" deep. It could also be your plow. Some brands pull harder than others for some reason. Those old Ford and, or Dearborn plows pulled pretty easy for their size. We pulled 3-14"s with an 850 Ford back in the day. It was about 45HP and had loaded tires (13.6x28) and wheel weights, front and rear. It weighed about 5200 lbs. It would plow all day long at 4mph in most conditions. In really hard clay you had to drop down a gear and maybe raise the plow a tad but not very often. If your tractor and plow are set up correctly you should be able to plow circles around that old 9N, especially with 4WD.

PineRidge · Jun 11, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

Might just be your plow or the way it's set up too. I used to pull a Dearborn 2 bottom plow with a 25 HP 4WD tractor with no sweat. My 40D pulled it like it wasn't even there with R4s.

Laminarman · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

Thanks for the comments. First I should state that I have my tires dished to their widest point due to the hilly terrain I have. Second, it's a TSC two bottom plow, which I've heard are not great, but I've never pulled anything else before. It's not so much a struggle pulling, as it is getting the sod to flip. I have a TNT and remote for the one side link arm, so I can adjust on the fly if necessary. I watched a buddy of mine flip my property with an old Ford plow on a 40HP Deere, and I was jealous, so maybe it's the plow. The tires are not great for traction, and I'm considering getting the agr. tires in a year or two. I also don't have draft control but don't know if that's worth it. I will be plowing 2-5 acres/year, and doing a lot of blade/box/rake work for years to come. I have 30 acres of fields and a new home that needs maintenance. Thanks again.

Pooh_Bear · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

I have an early 1949 8N. 23 PTO HP.
I pull a 2-16 bottom plow and the tractors not rated for that big.
But in our ground my tractor pulls it with gusto.

Two things I see that you may need to change.
Lengthen your top link so you don't plow as deep.
Shorten goes deeper. Longer goes shallower.

Second, you say the problem is with flipping the sod over?
Maybe you are not going fast enough. You have to go a certain
speed to get the plow to flip the ground over properly.

And loaded ag bar tires will help greatly.
My draft control doesn't work so I don't get to use it.
Good thing to have tho if you have varying soil conditions.

Pooh Bear

Laminarman · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

Ahhh...shorter goes deeper, that could be a problem, as it seems I am only going about 4 inches deep most of the time. I have such a hard time plowing, I really, really, really suck at this. My soil can be hard pan, then loam, then huge veins of shale and a bajillion rocks that scour my blades clean as a nickel whistle...all in the same 100 yard run. I'm only growing food plots, and some corn in the good soil for the family. But it stinks to have choppy ground to work with due to a cruddy plow job. I find in certain areas I pull beautifully, then go real deep and bog down, and in other places skim the surface and can't adjust the remote/side links quick enough. Keep in mind the ground is not real flat, it is old overgrown pasture and orchards and areas with dis-assembled stone walls, areas of significant wind erosion, so soil depth varies..etc. I'm thinking draft control might help.

JoshJ · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

Keep in mind that most people dont use TnT for moldboard plowing (in fact I've never heard of anyone that did). If you get your plow set up right you wont have to worry about TnT. Also, do your cylinders drift? That could cause headaches for you.

Once you have it all adjusted, depth is primarily controlled with your 3PH lever. Pick it up in heavy areas, and let it sink to a certain depth the rest of the time (use the stop on your 3PH lever)

If you have any pics of your plow, post them and maybe someone can tell you if something is blatantly wrong with it. Not sure how much you have used it, but I've heard that they don't work too well until you get the shears and moldboards "shiny" which means plowing bad until the dirt shines em up.

If all else fails, go see your neighbor and ask him for pointers. He's the closest help you have, and maybe the best.

Egon · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

As stated; make sure the plow is set up properly.

If you are turning new sod and it will not lay over neatly it's because the moleboard on is not made for sod. There are different moleboards for different conditions.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Farmwithjunk · Jun 12, 2006

Re: \"Pulling\" tractors

Making the top link shorter or longer may help slightly, but if the plow is set up right, not worn out, and in decent soil, that top link needs to be VERY close to making the plow LEVEL. Running it "nose down" even slightly might make it dig in quicker, but it'll also make it pull like a boat anchor. Plows are meant to run LEVEL. The shares being in good shape is what makes them pull into the ground. (called "suck")

Every since I bought my hydraulic top link, it doesn't miss the opportunity to get some use when I'm plowing. I use it to put the plow "nose down" when filling in dead furrows.

A question to the original poster. Is the ground you're plowing really dry? Hard DRY ground almost never plows well. ESPECIALLY sod.

One other bit of info. Shorter tractors don't do as well "holding constant position" with a plow. They tend to "porpoise" (sp?), making the plow ride up and down.