Questions re Farm Pro 2425

[Ed_B]

Hello all:

I have a couple of issues. First what is the easiest way to get a FEL (FarmPro) off the Farm Pro 2425 tractor?

Second rear engine oil seal. Do I have to break the tractor in two to get at it? Is it behind the flywheel? Or can I get at it through the oil pan?

Many, many thanks in advance.

Ed

 

[greg_g]

Well, the Chinese loader is in no way/shape/form considered a quick-change. So it's just a matter of bracing it up where you want it stored, then start working on the loader frame with wrenches.

No way I know of to get at the rear engine seal without taking off the bellhousing. So yes, splitting the tractor is almost a certainty.

What is it that makes you think the rear seal needs to be replaced?

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Hello all:

I have a couple of issues. First what is the easiest way to get a FEL (FarmPro) off the Farm Pro 2425 tractor?

Second rear engine oil seal. Do I have to break the tractor in two to get at it? Is it behind the flywheel? Or can I get at it through the oil pan?

Many, many thanks in advance.

Ed

Can't help much with the loader question. Some have brackets that unbolt when supported, some will self support or use a kickstand and the pins and hydraulics can be separated easilly leaving just the subframe on the tractor. Mine(custom made) is self supporting I fully dump the bucket and put the bucket edge on the ground. I can then remove the two lift arm pins and remove the control valve from the loader subframe. I then raise the loader/extend the lift cylinders. This rolls the loader forward till the bucket opening is flat on the ground. The bucket with lift arms will freestand like this. Once standing free, I remove the lower cylinder pins, shut off the tractor and take the loader valve out of circuit and connect up all QC's to send fluid to 3PH then startup and back away. It takes a floor jack and some big wrenches to remove the subframe.

As for the rear main engine seal, looking at the engine diagram on John's Jinma site, http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/EngineBodyFig001.jpg the rear main seal(part 66, upper right corner) appears to be a solid round seal so you will have to split the tractor and remove the flywheel to change it out.

Hope this helps.

Ron

 

[Ed_B]

I have a LOT of out coming out between the engine and bell housing.

 

[greg_g]

I have a LOT of out coming out between the engine and bell housing.

Strange. Is it safe to assume that you're referring to engine oil seeping through where the circumference of the bellhousing mates to the engine block? If so, how high up does it start. And what - if anything - is coming out the bellhousing weep hole?

//greg//

 

[bluechip]

I have seen this several times on Agri cat tractors, not as common on the Farm Pro versions as they are newer. but the assemblers at Yandgong don't always get the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the back of the block, behind the flywheel, tigt enough, and or use too short of bolt, they sometimes put flat washers between the lock washer and the surface, which to my thinking, keeps the lock washer from doing its job. The bellhousing holds the rear main seal, so a gap between the block and bell housing creates quite a leak. if those bolts get loose enough, the seal will bind on the crankshaft and you will think you have a locked up engine.

We always pull the flywheel when doing a clutch job, and check these bolts for torque, if loos, we remove the flat washer, and put a bit of locktite on them and retorque...

 

[Ed_B]

Hey Bluechip Ron and Greg:

Looks like Bluechip is spot on.

Upon re-examining the tractor, there is a gap between the engine and bell housing.

I have had the thing for 3 years. Broke it in in half last summer because the rivets in clutch plate sheared off. WIsh I would have known about the bell housing bolt problem at that point in time.

ANYWAY, thank you all for the help.

Greg, I didn't see any oil in the weep hole which is good I take it?


I guess I better by another jack to get the !@#$% FEL off!

Ed

 

[RonMar]

Did you add the FEL since the last time you split the tractor? Maybe it is a contributing factor with the added stresses?

 

[greg_g]

Greg, I didn't see any oil in the weep hole which is good I take it?

That's part of wha I thought was strange. Your weep hole is apparently blocked. Otherwise you'd have seen oil coming out there before it started coming out around the bellhousing.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

That's part of wha I thought was strange. Your weep hole is apparently blocked. Otherwise you'd have seen oil coming out there before it started coming out around the bellhousing.

//greg//

Greg
If you look at the exploded view that I posted the link to up above, if the housing(part 61) is separating from the rear of the engine block, the oil will be comming down the front of the housing(between housing and engine block) and not inside the housing. If it hasn't shifted enough to thrash the rear seal, then that seal(66) is probably still doing it's job and keeping the oil out of the clutch comparment side of the housing.

But, I would poke something up into the weep hole just to make sure