R4 tire popped off the rim

[beersngars]

I need some ideas on how to reseat a rear tire on it's rim. This is what happened. My new Kubota L3400 had a defective rear tire (out of round). My dealer got it handled through the manufacturer. They came out and installed a new tire about a month ago and I put the tractor back in the barn. I did watch the guy install the tire and it had a small bead leak (I saw the lube bubbling) and he smacked it a few times with a hammer and it seemed to quit. Today I tried to back it out and felt the bead let go. I do have a small Sears compressor there but could not get it to pop back on.

Hoping not to have to remove the rim and take it somewhere as our cabin is very rural. I thought of tring to put a strap around the center of the tread and expand the tires beads tighter to the rim. Any thoughts?

 

[john_bud]

A strong strap around the middle of the tire can help. First mix up some dish soap and water (20% soap) and wet down the whole rim on both sides. Then give it the strap and pressure.

The problem you will have is getting enough air into the tire fast enough.


You may want to call the dealer and see what they think. They may handle it for you.

jb

 

[jimmer2880]

I have used the ratchet strap idea on several mobile home, 4-wheeler, golf cart and utility trailer tires. Works like a champ. Just run the ratchet strap around the center-most part of the tread of the tire. Ratchet it down as tight as you can. The bead should then be touching the wheel. After you hit it with a little bit of air, don't forget to releast the strap.

 

[ctjstr]

You could do like the jeep guys do....i've seen folks several times re-seat tires by squirting some starting fluid in the tire, next to the rim, then squirting a small stream a few feet away and then lighting it. POP! Tire blows right back on the rim.

Although I've seen it done, I've never had (or will have) the nerve to try it myself. Does work though.

On the ratchet strap thing. What has worked better for me is to get the strap in place, but not terribly tight. Then I take a small bar and stick it between the strap and tire, and twist a few turns. You can really squeeze the tire and thereby expand it. The advantage it gives you is that when the tire starts to take air and seat, you can just release your bar and you're back to having slack in the strap. If you just ratchet the strap tight, once the air starts expanding the tire, it can be a booger getting the ratchet to release quick enough.

 

[zzvyb6]

I presume you are having a problem getting the air chamber filled and the bead at the bead seat of the wheel, not that the tire bead is in the rim, just not all the way against the flange.

Your chances of popping the bead back on the rim will improve if you remove the valve core from the Schraeder valve. You need a special tool to do this, often found on the end of some caps.

There is an industry standard for the tire to rim seating tension. If it keeps blowing out, you are probably going to have to increase air pressure to keep it on there. Perhaps the wheel is defective.

The way to tell is when reseating the bead, it should not just roll on, but snap with a noticable pop, often at pressures much higher than operating pressure.

Another possibility is that it is a tube type tire and needs a tube. I've run tube type tires tubeless, but they slowly leak down.

 

[gemini5362]

You could do like the jeep guys do....i've seen folks several times re-seat tires by squirting some starting fluid in the tire, next to the rim, then squirting a small stream a few feet away and then lighting it. POP! Tire blows right back on the rim.

Although I've seen it done, I've never had (or will have) the nerve to try it myself. Does work though.

On the ratchet strap thing. What has worked better for me is to get the strap in place, but not terribly tight. Then I take a small bar and stick it between the strap and tire, and twist a few turns. You can really squeeze the tire and thereby expand it. The advantage it gives you is that when the tire starts to take air and seat, you can just release your bar and you're back to having slack in the strap. If you just ratchet the strap tight, once the air starts expanding the tire, it can be a booger getting the ratchet to release quick enough.

Starting fluid is ether and highly explosive the guys the people that do that are taking a big risk.

I have used the strap method and it worked pretty well. You have to jack the tractor up and get the tire and rim completely off of the ground. You have to get the strap very tight so that it will push the bead out towards the edge of the rim. When you get air in it remember to take the strap off before you fill the tire up. If you are using the standard ratcheting strap you can pull the lever that allows you to loosen the ratcheting handle. Pull it up until it is completely straight this will loosen both locks and it will come loose.


Make sure that you block the tractor up very solidly while you have the tire off of the ground. I think the biggest problem you are going to have is to be able to put out enough volume quickly to push the tire onto the bead without loosing it all around the rim.

 

[RickB]

I presume you are having a problem getting the air chamber filled and the bead at the bead seat of the wheel, not that the tire bead is in the rim, just not all the way against the flange.

Your chances of popping the bead back on the rim will improve if you remove the valve core from the Schraeder valve. You need a special tool to do this, often found on the end of some caps.

That's right.

There is an industry standard for the tire to rim seating tension. If it keeps blowing out, you are probably going to have to increase air pressure to keep it on there. Perhaps the wheel is defective.

Or debris between the rim/tire. or a damaged tire bead.

The way to tell is when reseating the bead, it should not just roll on, but snap with a noticable pop, often at pressures much higher than operating pressure.

A lubricated rim/tire will seat smoothly and quietly. NEVER, EVER use more than 35 PSI to seat a tire on a rim.

Another possibility is that it is a tube type tire and needs a tube. I've run tube type tires tubeless, but they slowly leak down.

Almost all tubeless tires will leak down over time, especially in spring and fall when air temps vary a lot.

 

[Savagepike]

I vote for the strap method. But have several straps available, mine required 2 straps, 2 strong people plus a homemade bead puller built out of a rope, a 2x4 and several coat hangers to motivate my rears back on the rims. Also patience is a big plus. My next tractor I'll gladly pay the extra $$$ to have my tires filled. Huge PITA.

 

[Timber]

Well I can tell you that semi ties always have a problem seating the bead. They use hand soap like a 1 gallon can of goop or something similar. The other thing is an air tank with a knife valve an a large opening that is wide and narrow like a cow bell the dumps a high volume of air into the tire as you fill it. Personally I would take it to a tire shop and just have them seat it for you

 

[beersngars]

Thanks for all the help. If the tractor were at my home, no big deal, as I have a large compressor and air tools. At the cabin property there is only a small compressor and very little tools. I may to try the strap method, but I will bring tools to remove the rim so it can go to the tire shop.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for all the help. If the tractor were at my home, no big deal, as I have a large compressor and air tools. At the cabin property there is only a small compressor and very little tools. I may to try the strap method, but I will bring tools to remove the rim so it can go to the tire shop.

You probably have all you need if you were to do it quickly while the tire still had some memory of spread beads. Quickly removing weight from the wheel and cleaning the bead area is a must. Apply the soap solution. Then remove the valve core and use a rubber tipped blo gun on the open valve. If it doesnt pick up instantly, stop and strap it. Unless the bead wires have been bent this will work - even with a small compressor [if it has a storage tank?]. Hopefully the tire has been sitting w/o weight on it. I think you still might have a good chance.
Good Luck!
larry

 

[dynasim]

Bring an air bubble. The initial kick can be had by maxing the pressure in the bubble, which can be refilled with the slow compressor. It only takes a couple of psi in the tire to begin the seating process.

Chris

 

[beersngars]

Bring an air bubble. The initial kick can be had by maxing the pressure in the bubble, which can be refilled with the slow compressor. It only takes a couple of psi in the tire to begin the seating process.

Chris

Air bubble? Sorry, but I don't know what that is.

 

[hydrovane218]

I think the AIR BUBBLE Dynasim is refering to is also known as an "air pig". It is just a portable air receiver that can be had at any autoparts places, usually they are about 10 gallons.
He is talking about using the same method as mentioned earlier by dumping all that 10 gallons of at say 100-125 psi to quickly jar the bead on the seating area of the rim. I have done alot of work for transport truck tire guys on their air compressors and they all have these AIR PIGS with a 1 1/2" ball valve on them with the knife type of mouth after the valve. They put the knife up to the tire and by very quickly opening it, it immediately seats the tire by unloading all that volume of air into it.
I haven't had the pleasure of seating a tubeless tire on a tractor yet. I had a small travel trailer tire off the rim that sat over the winter like that and I had no luck with it. I took it to one of my tire guys and he used the above method(at the side of the road where I met up with him) and had it sorted out in seconds. If this strap method works, great. Otherwise, I think it might be less aggrevation to take the tire off and bring it in.

 

[Richard]

I once had a tire replaced. I watched them install it.

They had a small (20 pound?) "propane" tank that had the propane removed. They had some kind of ball valve on there so they could QUICKLY open it and blow out the air that they had pumped into it.

They also had some kind of wide opening flair that is what they used to set near the tire/bead and direct the blast of air from the tank, into the tire and this shock of air into the tire is what set the bead.

I set our tractor tire just couple months ago and darn thing took me several hours of persistant attempts.

Removing the air stem core was a big help. Strap around the tire was mandantory. Liquid dish detergent was at minimum, a big help (mandatory??)

The ratchet I used ended up being a bit of a pain because the ratched parts themselves were long enough that they were now following the contour of the tires shape. Kind of made for a flat spot where the ratchet was. That was one of the reasons I had to keep at it.

I finally persevered but it was not without several choice comments made at the tire during the process

 

[GIJOE]

Bead Seating Tank, Air Pig, Air Bubble.... There are numerous names for it, but this is what one looks like. They can be had in different size tanks also.

TSI Cheetah Bead Seating Tool 6 Gallon Capacity, Model# CH-5 | Tire Equipment | Northern Tool + Equipment

Joe

 

[donais]

when i worked in a shop that did tires we had a cool tool. it was an a ring made of sheet aluminum with dense black foam,about 1/8 in thick and the same size as the rim. soap it up good put it over the rim and press it while giving it air. worked every time and we had one for each rim size..jon

 

[travis potter]

I use a rope rather than a strap tie it tight then use a pipe or rod to twist the rope this will tighten the rope with out the long flat spot the rachet makes. the tractor must be jacked up and the valve removed. I use the plasttic tie raps on small tires just tighten 1 or 2 long ones, what ever it takes and air the tire up. The strap will break before you get too much air in the tire. I have 80 some odd tires on all of my stuff and use this method all the time. it faster to just change a bad tire at home rather than take it into town to the tire shop. Use the fel bucket to break the bead then tire irons or big screw drivers to remave the tire. use soap or grease on the bead to install the new tire.

 

[elkun1]

Guess it depends on how remote you are and how soon you need the tractor. Cold temps makes the rubber pretty darn hard to use a strap successfully and about the only other thing we've had luck with in the winter is tire soap, but i bet you don't have a pail of that handy. Safest bet is to take the tire into the tire shop, but thats kind of boring and lots of work. However, as i get older that's probably what i'd do unless i needed the tractor right away.
Most every tire I've had done in the winter (fertilizer trucks, 66x43x25) has ended up with ether in it. problem is this new either just doesn't have the required poop in it anymore, napa brand didn't work, case ih did. haven't done it for a couple of years so by now who no's what brand will work, some hairspays also have some bang in them. when the tire goes boom you need to put the air to it instantly. not for the feint of heart and the neighbors will give you strange looks. be careful and keep your fingers out of the tire. Video tape it, you might have a youtube hit. Happy New Years and let us know what ya did, Ron