Re-Decking a Trailer

   / Re-Decking a Trailer #1  

Inspector507

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I was wondering......Since the new pressure treated lumber is not really good to use in contact with steel, what should someone use to put a new deck on a trailer with? The trailer I have is decked with plain 2X6 lumber painted, but I'd like to replace it with treated lumber. Am I going to have a problem here?

What if the lumber was "isolated/insulated" from the steel by way of a rubber strip or something along that line?
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #2  
Jerry; Try using some Ice Gaurd to isolate the ACQ lumber from the steel. Or maybe even some pieces of torchdown roofing? Just love that new treatment. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

What if the lumber was "isolated/insulated" from the steel by way of a rubber strip or something along that line? )</font>

I believe You might have the right approach there .
We're starting to see a lot of ACQ now in our pole buildings . We are provided with a strip of material that looks a lot like ice and snow guard to put between any ACQ and the metal siding . The screws are different as well for that application . John
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #4  
Kinda same principal: I built a deck with ACQ and had powdercoated steel brackets for the rails/benches. I asked at the powdercoating place, and they didn't know if it would be a good enough barrier.

I used some rubber adhesive backed sound deadening material I had on hand. Stuck it to the steel and bolted it together. It will last longer than I will care about it........
ron
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #5  
I didn't know there was a problem with pressure treated wood touching steel frame. What is the problem?
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #6  
The new treatment "eats" steel. I don't know what the technical term is--I suppose corrosive is a good term. I was told to use Hot Dipped Galvanized bolts and special screws to hold it together.

As an example, I had some regular cad plated 3/8" bolts through some ACQ 2x6s for five months. When I took them out, the area that was INSIDE the treated wood was badly surface rusted.
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #7  
I've found buying green oak cheaper and stronger than the pine lumber at the box stores.

And I don't see the advantages of treated except for ground contact.

Check around. There might be a mill that cranks out oak planks for pallets etc. You'll find it cheaper than pine finished lumber.
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #8  
Inspector,

Are you replacing because it is rotted out? I remember when I was younger; we replaced the boards on our 16' tandam with regular (not pressure treated) wood.

We kept it from rotting by putting a coat of diesal fuel and a little motor oil mixed together. Had a 5 gallon bucket and an old mop to apply it with. The trailer was latter sold to a friend, but the decking has not rotted out yet (15 or so years).

If all you are doing is hauling equipment and the such on it; I would not worry about it. I would not want to move furniture or something like that on it.

Fig
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #9  
Later this summer or maybe next, I am going to have to do this job, too. What about just painting regular (non-treated) lumber? I mean paint both sides before installation on to the trailer, then maybe a 2nd coat on the top surface after re-assembly. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

My trailer is just beginning to show some rot on the deck after 10 years of abuse. The OEM decking was unpainted non-pressure treated wood. I've never done any thing to the deck other than leave it parked outside in the sun, rain, snow, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Re-Decking a Trailer #10  
Taken from another web site:

<font color="purple"> Can I use the same metal fasteners used for CCA lumber?</font>
The chemicals used in ACQ will corrode ordinary galvanized fasteners, therefore special consideration must be taken when working with ACQ lumber. Hot dipped or stainless steel fasteners MUST be used with ACQ.

The two most important things to remember when selecting deck fasteners, framing nails, decking nails or screws are: (1) holding capacity, and (2) resistance to corrosion. Using the wrong fasteners can compromise the appearance, longevity, and safety of an outdoor project.

Many fasteners traditionally used with treated lumber are no longer recommended for this application. Dacrotized, electroplated, brass, and aluminum fasteners should not be used in treated lumber when the appearance of rust or the likelihood of corrosion is unacceptable.

Hot Dipped Galvanized - Fasteners galvanized to meet ASTM A 153 class D are acceptable for use with treated lumber. It is important to point out that galvanized fasteners are rust-resistant and not rustproof; there is no guarantee that these fasteners will remain rust-free.

PrimeGuard +10-Coated – This is a patented coating that carries a 10-year guarantee against rust and corrosion when used with treated lumber. For maximum performance we suggest PrimeGuard Plus Stainless Steel or PrimeGuard Plus coa
ted fasteners. PrimeGuard Plus Exterior Fasteners are a complete line of premium fasteners for all outdoor projects, and available at most Sutherlands retail locations. All PrimeGuard Plus fasteners are guaranteed not to rust or corrode.

USA Today article

Industry page
 
 
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