Rebuild or Replace Troybilt Horse

tracracer8867

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
40
Location
U.S.A
Tractor
Deutz Fahr, X500, CT4045
One thing that has not been discussed is balance and weight. Kohler M Series engines are made of cast iron and use a very heavy flywheel. Your Kohler may weigh twice as much as an aluminum Honda clone engine. So depending on the style of tiller you have, using a lightweight engine may affect the balance and performance of the tiller. Front-tine models are notorious for bouncing around. Rear-tine models use the engine weight to offset the tine area weight when you have to lift the tiller up at the end of a run and quickly do a 180 for the next pass.
When Troy-Built engineered your tiller, they did so in full recognition of the engine weight. This too.... is something you may wish to ponder while deciding on a course of action.
 

bcp

Super Star Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
11,246
Location
SW WA
Tractor
Kubota BX2360
Mine had a Tecumseh with a large cast iron weight attached. I put on the HF replacement engine and re-installed the weight. Can't tell the difference in handling.

Bruce
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#13  
OP
R

RodXmas

New member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
2
Tractor
Troy Bilt Horse
Guys thanks for all the feedback. I am going to do some more research on the model get the manuals etc and get this done. I think it is going to be a good way for me to teach my kids some basic how to work skills that I learned as a boy running an old horse tiller in a big tomato patch. I am sure I will have a lot of questions and need more advice. Thanks again to all of you this was so helpful. If there are any other resources you would recommend I would appreciate hearing about them!
 

Jstpssng

Super Star Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
15,345
Location
Maine
Tractor
Kubota L3301
I'm on my third or fourth old Horse. They don't like rocky soil, and that's what I have always used them on. I've worn out a set of gears on each of my last two.
The one I have now has an HF replacement engine and works fine. The problem I have had since I bought it, used, is the gear lever; it has always been stiff and I had to weld on a piece of angle iron reinforcement when it bent.
I've worn out the Bolo tines, but have two sets of cultivating tines down in my shed. I just need to pick some more rocks before putting them on.
 
   #15  

1redfish

New member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
1
Tractor
Ford 3000
I have a dilemma. I inherited by father-in-laws Troy Bilt horse tiller that was bought sometime in the late 70s. It starts easy and runs smooth but has lots of issues. The transmission slips really bad unless I wire View attachment 707191View attachment 707192down the lever. I have to keep constant pressure on the throttle. I live in Maine and have been unable to find anyone to do a complete restore job. Do you know of anyone in the western maine area who would take on such a project.

Is it worth it to spend a lot of time and effort to get this rebuilt or should I just replace with a new Big Red Tiller or other recommendation you may have.

Thanks
I think you are saying that it's jumping out of forward gear and you wire the lever down to keep it in forward. If that's the case, Troybilt made an upgrade kit that includes a modified Adjustment Block and Friction Wheel. Search online for

Troy-Bilt Adjustment Block & Reverse Disc for 4 speed.​

This kit fixed the problem on the tiller I inherited from my dad. He fought the problem for years never knowing they made a kit to correct the problem. The kit runs $70-$80 and is simple to install. It is absolutely worth the money since your motor runs well.
 
   #16  

Sonny580

Platinum Member
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
765
Location
Central Illinois
Tractor
several kinds and sizes
I put new luni Kohler 7's on 2 of mine that had cast iron Kohler 7's on them and now they are so light on the front end that they are useless! --- NO traction at all and the new luni's only weigh half as much as the good old cast iron motors did.
The main problem I have is finding the right length belts for mine! --- they all turn out being 22 inches long and thats way too long. 21.5 would be the right length and I cant find them around here.
And the belts from Troy-built dont fit either since they are also 22 inch belts!
I did make taller side straps so I could get buy but they wont stay in gear cause the longer straps throw the geometry off just enough that they wont stay in so I use tarp strap of the right length to go under the depth lever spring pocket and up to handle to make it go. --- not a good idea but thats all I could come up with.
The belt/clutch was a VERY poor design by Troy-built from the word go!
 
 
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