Refurbishing a Delta 930 Lathe

[ededic]

I purchased this antique lathe, then found an original set of cast iron legs for it. I built the connector planks and feet out of Red Oak cut and sawn from the location where my woodshop stands now. I purchased a new motor to be trouble free.

 

[Doofy]

Very nice job and a worthwhile project. I never had the opportunity to learn to use a lathe. My senior year of high school only involved the purchase and setting up of all the shop equipment...never got to use a single piece. I envy a good wood working craftsman. Enjoy!

 

[ededic]

I’m having a heck of a time figuring out this drum switch. Just when I think I have it, nope, nada.

Has anyone connected one of these? It has to be so simple that I am really overthinking it. I have watch numerous YouTube videos and looked hundreds of wiring diagrams on Google’s image library with no better understanding or clarity.

Here is the motor diagram and I am using 110V.

Here is the drum switch for forward and reverse:

Thanks in advance if you can help me connect the drum switch to flip 5 & 6.

 

[ponytug]

I’m having a heck of a time figuring out this drum switch. Just when I think I have it, nope, nada.

Has anyone connected one of these? It has to be so simple that I am really overthinking it. I have watch numerous YouTube videos and looked hundreds of wiring diagrams on Google’s image library with no better understanding or clarity.

Here is the motor diagram and I am using 110V.

View attachment 723972

View attachment 723973

Here is the drum switch for forward and reverse:

View attachment 723974

Thanks in advance if you can help me connect the drum switch to flip 5 & 6.

Good news!

You have all the info that you need, as you have motor and switch documentation. I find it easiest to start with the switch.

If you look at the connection diagrams, switch lead #3 and switch lead #4 are all that switches between forward and reverse, so for 110V, those need to be blue wires, i.e. motor lead 5 and the other needs to be motor lead 6. Put the red / yellow and black/white wires on the switch for whichever direction is "forward" for you. (i.e. CW=forward, 110V, red on switch #1 yellow on switch #2 and motor lead 5 on #3, with motor lead #6 on switch #4, black on switch #5 and white on switch #6.)
220V is simpler as three of the wires bypass the switch, (black, yellow, and motor #5, blue.), so fewer wires on the switch.
Clear as mud?

I hope that it helps.

Nice to see a great delta restoration. I think it is great that you used oak for the shelves.

All the best,

Peter

 

[ponytug]

By the way, often all the old motors need are some new bearings, a little dust removal from the windings, sometimes a new capacitor, and you are back in business. Easy to do.
I had an old Walker-Turner motor whose motor leads had crumbled, and they needed to be replaced which was a little more challenging as the original wires had been silver soldered together.

Don't get me wrong, newer motors are often far more efficient, but sometimes for the sake of historical accuracy, the older motors can be worth the effort.

All the best,

Peter

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

And some Delta motors of that era, were rated for more horsepower at 220 than at 110. They are the only ones I have ever seen that were wired that way.

 

[Dragonpharm]

Nice job! Love seeing the restoration. Careful with lathes, they are like potato chips you can't have just one. I currently own three. Should be 2 but I haven't sold my other full size lathe yet.

Good luck with the electric. I'd start on switch side too as suggested.

 

[ededic]

Good news!

You have all the info that you need, as you have motor and switch documentation. I find it easiest to start with the switch.

If you look at the connection diagrams, switch lead #3 and switch lead #4 are all that switches between forward and reverse, so for 110V, those need to be blue wires, i.e. motor lead 5 and the other needs to be motor lead 6. Put the red / yellow and black/white wires on the switch for whichever direction is "forward" for you. (i.e. CW=forward, 110V, red on switch #1 yellow on switch #2 and motor lead 5 on #3, with motor lead #6 on switch #4, black on switch #5 and white on switch #6.)
220V is simpler as three of the wires bypass the switch, (black, yellow, and motor #5, blue.), so fewer wires on the switch.
Clear as mud?

I hope that it helps.

Nice to see a great delta restoration. I think it is great that you used oak for the shelves.

All the best,

Peter

Thanks Peter. Really appreciate the help. Got the switch wired up like you wrote.

Now need to move on to connecting the power. No place to connect that makes sense to me.

 

[ponytug]

Glad to help!

You made great progress! Nice terminal crimps and heat shrink.

If you look back at the motor wiring diagram, for 110V, you see that red and yellow go into one ac lead, and black and white go into the other, so on your switch, you put one ac lead on either red or yellow, and the other ac lead on black or white. Usually, I pick whichever side of the switch has the most room, usually the side away from the motor lead entry. (Like on yours, red gets one and then whatever color is on the bottom that side (black? I can't quite tell in your photo.) gets the other ac lead.)

The really important thing is that you don't want to have the AC leads side by side on that switch, or they will short.

Does that help? Just for the record, I am not an electrician and I don't play one on TV...

All the best,

Peter

 

[ronjhall]

Good post. I have a Craftsman 12" metal lathe mounted on the same stand. Got to be over 60 years old. Need to wire a new switch to motor. Using a similar switch to what you have to it. Have saved this thread for future help with the wiring.