Restoring antique plow - need to remove rusted nuts/bolts - how much heat?

[axeman79]

I don't own or need a full cutting torch set. Will the small Benzomatic Brazing Torch type kits (w/ oxygen) produce enough heat to get the nuts red hot? If so, any recommendations on a kit?

Thanks

If you are trying to remove the plow bolts and the moldboard, shares, shins, etc. are going to be replaced, then weld the flat head to the moldboard (or whatever) and torque the nut with an impact hammer. The plow bolts will turn or shear off. If you are removing 1/2" bolts or smaller, cut them or chisel them off and replace them with #5 or #8 depending on the application. If you are removing large bolts, then use penetrating oil and a 800lb+ impact hammer. If they won't budge, use an acetylene torch, without oxygen to heat the nut, let cool, then torque again. When replacing fasteners, do not use zinc coated, use plain steel or the new bolts will corrode quickly.

I rebuilt a 1958 JD 810A three-bottom, trip plow. I had to replace many of the fasteners and all of the wear parts. I purchase my fasteners from Fastenal and my wear parts from Agri-Supply. My plow is now new after a complete breakdown and restoration.

 

[Varmintmist]

Penetrating fluid and tap with a hammer, as long as you have the time. Then heat, then, well, they cant be stuck if they are liquid.

 

[rv7charlie]

A cutoff wheel might well be the most practical thing if it's really awful. But if you're going to try penetrating oil first, be aware that a 50/50 mix of 'traditional' (non-synthetic) automatic transmission fluid & acetone has been shown to be just as effective as any of the commercial penetrating oils. It does require a bit of patience. Apply, wait a few hours or overnight, and tray the wrench. If it still won't budge, reapply and whack it with a hammer to 'shock' it. Wait a few more hours, reapplying periodically if convenient, and try again.

Worked like magic for me when I had to replace the head on an old MF50 tractor. I keep an oil squirt can with the mix on hand, replenish the acetone if it's been a while since I used it (acetone eventually evaporates out).

 

[Andrus]

MAP gas on the nut has always worked for me, may take about 5 minutes to get it red hot. MAP gas comes in a small canister just like a propane torch.

 

[Hermio]

I am rather surprised no one suggested a simple nut breaker. If you can get to the nut, and have a nut breaker of the right size, it works every time. Example: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...568ed20f930b193ae40eb32c29fb1419&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

[CalG]

I am rather surprised no one suggested a simple nut breaker. If you can get to the nut, and have a nut breaker of the right size, it works every time. Example:snip

Considering that the OP has expressed the desire to preserve the original fasteners in order to better the "restoration" of an old plow". A nut cracker or a cut wheel would seem out of line.

There have been threads on rusty fasteners previously. This thread has a single intent in the opening post.

 

[plumbyII]

Would a nut splitter tool work?

 

[mahovy]

Propane or MAPP gas with oxygen can get hot enough to cut steel when a lot of Oxygen is used. So yes, it can get nuts red hot.
Kroil helps sometimes if you can get to the threads.

 

[Gord Baker]

After using Penetrating oil for a couple days, Get the nut as hot as possible then drench with cold water. That often busts loose the corrosion interface. You could also use a Nut splitter or simply hacksaw down the centre of the bolt and through the nut.

 

[sresites]

I replaced 90+ bolts/nuts on my John Deere 1600 4-18 plow. Bruit force with a Milwaukie impact or Aircat cutoff saw at 14,000 rpm.