Rookie tractor buyer neds advice

[ChubbyButtNinja]

Hi. I’m new to tractors but am getting close to buying one. I am a total rookie.

Situation: Have somewhat accidentally ended up with six acres to maintain. Was initially going to get a subcompact and rotary cutter, but have felt like I should try to redeem the land and not just stare at shorter weeds on it. The land is “flat” but there are a lot of bumps and small (3-4 foot) elevation changes that I will try to level out some. I have asthma and need a cab, but our needs seem modest for the six-acres property where we’re going to try to keep a smallish farm. We don’t know what crops we will plant - we are working with the UGA extension team to figure that out.

I have really liked Kioti and a big dealer gave me a quote on a CK2620 shipped to me. I've looked at and come close to buying used DK models. My local LS dealer has given me what seems like a great quote on the brand-new LS 226. I saw one dealer in Oklahoma has what seems to be a great deal on the TYM 4215 which I'm considering. I have gotten an okay quote on a Bobcat 2535 from a brand new dealer local to me but the attraction there is he's so local and we've done other business before so I trust him. I've visited a couple of JD dealers but their cab models are basically double my quote for the LS. Of course, I like the new tractor warranty but I'd be fine with a used tractor that has a good track record.

I feel like as a total rookie it could be smart to get something bigger and more stable than I need. I can pay cash or finance and am making that decision based on how big the cash discount is.

Budget is max around $40k out the door with my starter implements.

Would also be interested in two supplemental questions:
- What are the no brainer early attachments besides some kind of cutter and a box blade to help with the grading?
- Is a flail mower worth the upgrade over a rotary cutter, or put another way under what conditions would you splurge on the flail mower.

I'm very grateful for any help.

 

[steve tym]

When you buy a tractor, the dealer you buy from is just as important as the brand you buy.
I find it hard to compare tractors. They all seem pretty good these days.
Parts availability is important. When your tractor is broke down and you have to wait a month for parts......
I've owned an Iron Horse (Jinma) open station, no complaints
A Massey with after market cab, no complaints.
A Branson with dealer installed factory cab (no AC), no complaints.
Currently a TYM 65 hp with cab, no complaints. Well, a little one. It doesn't have a temp gauge for the engine. One of those things you don't even think to look for. Who builds a tractor without a temp gauge?
Attachments? You can never have enough.

 

[Torvy]

Iirc, that 4215 is a lot more machine than the others. The 42 HP version is apparently being phased out, but it is exactly the same as the other xx15 models except for the tuning.

Pallet Forks have been handy and are not too pricy.

I went with a ditch mower flail. It was about the same price as a good RC. The hydraulics allow for things an RC cannot do and the mower isn't as 'long', so it's more maneuverable. The RC length is a plus when using as a counter-balance for loader work.

 

[nrgmgmt]

If it is for farm use, it can be sold sales tax-free, at least in Oklahoma and Kansas. Buying in OK might save you a lot of money. This is most likely true in other states, but I live in Kansas and buy in Oklahoma. Usually, the Tulsa and Coweta area has the best deals. The dealers are all used to writing off the sales tax if you state that it is farm-related.

As for flail mower vs. rotary, the flail gives a nice, clean cut—think of a golf course—especially if you have nothing but flat earth. But if you hit a rock, you start to replace blades in many cases. And they are not great at mowing larger underbrush, at least the ones I have seen.

Rotary mowers have just two huge blades with a stump/rock hopper hub if you have freshly cleared or rocky land. You will still hit the rock or stump with the blade, but they are designed to fold in, jump the obstacle, and start mowing again. The blades last an incredibly long time, but you will of course have to sharpen those if you smash into a lot of hard stuff. These are really good at clearing most anything your tractor can run over vegetation-wise.

I have a Ford 900, Kubota 2500 and a TYM 4215. For the money if all you are going to do is mow, and nothing else, a Ford 900 is cheap and so are parts and it has live PTO. There are aftermarket loaders and the 3 point attachments are everywhere. Every auction has 5- 10 it seems.

My Kubota is cheap to run fuel wise, has a front end loader and the diesel has never failed me. My only complaint is getting onto the dang thing takes acrobatic ability to fit my size 14 feet into the step and then cross over and get in the seat. Parts are getting cheaper, and can be hard to find if it is a cosmetic part (Headlight assembly for example).

And my most used is the TYM 4215, easier access, easier 3 point access and parts are not horribly expensive. I can call up Coweta and they have the parts to me next day in most cases, sometimes 2 days. But I only live 3 miles across the Kansas-OK border, so that may be a huge part of that.
Service is easier than the Kubota to find the engine for oil changes, etc.

Hope that helps some.

 

[Mej13579]

I have a Branson 3515h and I really enjoy it, but sometimes I wish I had gotten either the 42 or 48 in the 15 series. If you can get a good deal on a 4215 I think it would be a great choice as you could run 6 ft implements on the back.

 

[Mej13579]

I also run a flail mower on mine I feel it cuts better than my rotary cutter and chews up small saplings and brush better. If you do get a flail I would suggest get the hammers.

 

[5030]

My only comment is...BUY FROM A LOCAL DEALER.... Being a newbie, you'll need dealer intervention for parts or repairs at some point and buying a unit from far away is always fraught with issues.

 

[Tractorable]

I think a Kioti CK2620SE Cab would be a great choice for 6 acres. Comes standard with dual rear remotes so you can run an offset flail if you want one. Get the third function on the loader to operate a grapple.

 

[RjCorazza]

As far as implements, I recently got a ditch bank flail with hammer blades and it does a great job on small brush, saplings and tall weeds. It also does surprisingly well on my front field that's maintained as a lawn. The hydraulic offset let's me get into places that a rotary cutter just can't, or at least not without a lot of difficulty.
On edit: you don't mention a loader... I would never buy a tractor without a loader.
Happy shopping!

 

[aesanders]

All three Korean manufacturer’s make nice machines. I would try and compare similar models that have the most similar engines, ie 25hp TYM to the 25-26 Kioti and LS, or the 40hp models of each.