Rotella question

[GreatWhitehunter]

This is a stupid question but I'll ask anyways. I Rotella synthetic? Or is it just the container labeled synthetic? If it's just the labeled stuff what is so special about the plain rotella? I'm ignorant to oils so please feel free to include details. I have a 250 PSD I would like to start changing the oil on. The dealer charges over 100 bucks for plain jane oil. I figured I can do it for half that. I read all the Rotella post here and was pricing it at TSC. I went to purchase some last night and noticed it didn't say synthetic on the container.
I want to make sure I know what I'm putting in my truck.

Matt T.

 

[kenmac]

If it says synthetic , I would say that it is synthetic. What group synthetic ?I don't know but, I'am sure diesel power could tell you what group synthetic it is.It may tell you on the container if it's group 2-3- etc, synthetic.The synthetic will have more additive package than plain rotella. I don't know it rotella is a POA synthetic or not .Like I said ,I'am sure diesel power can tell you more.

 

[DieselPower]

There are two different Rotella T's. One is a conventional and the other is a synthetic. If it does not say synthetic on the bottle or pail then it is the conventional kind.

As far as additive packages go synthetic oils do not have more additives by nature over their conventional counterpart. The main difference is the oil base stock used.

Synthetic Rotella T is a Group IV basestock oil.

 

[IH3444]

Lifted from another thread, in the Ferrari forum.....don't know if it's true or not, reads interesting.....

"A bit of information directly from a shell engineer. Note that at the end he states that the base stock in Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic (available at walmart for $14 a gallon) ,Shell Helix(Ferrari dealer $16 a quart), and Ferrari's formula 1 oil cocktail is the exact same thing minus different additives. Is the highly rated Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 another credible alternative to overpriced Helix? After all, the Rottela t does meet and far exceed all current testing standards (SL, Sj, etc) not to mention an incredible viscocity index of 178 degrees c (mobil 1 0-40 is 168 c).

"It is true that ROTELLA T Synthetic is Group III (not PAO) based, but you must keep in mind that not all Group III base oils are created equal. ROTELLA T Synthetic is made with Shell's XHVI base oil, which unlike other Group IIIs does not begin as distilled crude oil, hence of all Group III base oils, XHVI is truly the only one that can legitimately be called "synthetic." XHVI is a wax isomerate, meaning that it is made from the slack wax removed from distilled crude in normal solvent dewaxing. This slack wax is catalytically transformed (isomerized) and hydrofinished into a chemically pure base oil which rivals PAO in virtually every category. There are other "synthetic" oils out there based on Group III, but Shell's is unique in that it uses XHVI base oil. Chevron and Petro-Canada produce Group III base oils that come close to XHVI, but even though these oils are all hydroprocessed and utilize the same type of isomerization technology employed in the making of XHVI, they are not the same thing. Only XHVI is made from pure petroleum slack wax and its CAS number is 92026-09-4. The CAS number for the more typical all-hydroprocessed Group III base oils is 64742-54-7. If you want to know what your "synthetic" oil is made from, take a look at the MSDS and look for these numbers. (The CAS number for PAO is 68037-01-4).

In brief, don't be so quick to dismiss Rotella T Synthetic as just another "synthetic pretender." It's made with the same base oil as Shell's Helix Ultra, and everytime you see Ferrari win a Formula 1 race, that's the oil in the engine.""

 

[rback33]

This is a stupid question but I'll ask anyways. I Rotella synthetic? Or is it just the container labeled synthetic? If it's just the labeled stuff what is so special about the plain rotella? I'm ignorant to oils so please feel free to include details. I have a 250 PSD I would like to start changing the oil on. The dealer charges over 100 bucks for plain jane oil. I figured I can do it for half that. I read all the Rotella post here and was pricing it at TSC. I went to purchase some last night and noticed it didn't say synthetic on the container.
I want to make sure I know what I'm putting in my truck.

Matt T.

Boy.. they are putting it to ya.... I change my own oil on most of my vehicles, but since the engine is still under warranty I am letting the dealers change it. Even then I only get hit for 65-75 dollars for it. I also specify Rotella. I probably got a great deal on my last service...did the engine & tranny both with both filters and an air filter... for $262 felt like I came out OK on that... Coulda done it all myself, but the dodge tranny scares me a bit from the horror stories I hear.. so I baby it some and let the pros mess with it.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I think my truck takes 16qt of oil. I want to do the oil and the fuel filters myself. I had priced the rotella at around 42 buck not including the filter. And I don't need to drop off the truck at the dealer so it seemed like a no brainer.
Can someone recommend a full synthetic that it both cost effective and a quality lubricant?


Matt T.

 

[George2615]

I use Rotella T synthetic 5w30 in my Duramax and my tractor. Valvoline is also available for diesel engines. It depends on what the store has in stock. I get it at Walmart or Advance Auto. I do my own changes and write up a work order for what I do. I think I last paid about $19 or so a gallon plus filter etc. Runs about $45-50 doing it myself. My truck takes 10 qts. and I always change it way before the mfg. scheduled change time. I probably waste some money that way but I like clean oil.

 

[kenmac]

Can someone recommend a full synthetic that it both cost effective and a quality lubricant?



You asked so, I'll open the 1 st. can of worms the can of worms I use Amsoil

 

[cp1969]

I think my truck takes 16qt of oil. I want to do the oil and the fuel filters myself. I had priced the rotella at around 42 buck not including the filter. And I don't need to drop off the truck at the dealer so it seemed like a no brainer.
Can someone recommend a full synthetic that it both cost effective and a quality lubricant?


Matt T.

The only way you can make a synthetic "cost effective" is to leave it in the crankcase for a much longer period of time than you would a regular oil. For cars and trucks that operate on the highway, that may make sense. For tractors, which operate in a much dirtier environment, I don't think it does.

If you're talking about "cost effective" regarding synthetic vs synthetic (not synthetic vs. conventional oil) then, yes, there are all kinds of variations in price. At the bottom you've got Walmart's house brand and at the top, oils like Royal Purple and Red Line. Are the top of the line oils worth the extra money? Not to me, but others must think so. Otherwise, they'd be out of business. I would guess Rotella's synthetic would fall into the category you describe as cost effective (reasonably cheap) and quality lubricant (good oil).

 

[HGM]

I'll just add a reminder here since I dont care for Rotella.. The Ford PSD used engine oil as a Hydraulic oil, so it see's more use than in most other engines. I dont recommend leaving it in for long periods.. Is there something wrong with the Motorcraft 15-40 that was designed to run in the engine?