Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE

[Danica]

As for oil in coolant or the other way around, a good option is to have a lab test samples of each. They can detect cross contamination as well as exhaust residue or fuel in either fluid. One of the places I worked had it's own in house lab. We sold the sample bottles, two varieties of each. Physical return or prepaid postage. An empty bottle with label and instructions as well as an outer container. Pull your samples, fill out the label and return to the store or drop in the mail. It is amazing the amount of information you can glean from an analysis. I would guess probably 20 to 30 dollars per sample.
Good for a single use diagnostic or for regular monitoring of the engine or other fluids as well.
Odds are if you have a cracked head, block or bad head gasket an oil and coolant test will reveal it. But the test can't tell you which problem it is. But if it comes back clean you are pretty much assured there is no reason to pull the head for further testing.

Nice idea, I will find a suitable lab! Unfortunately it is raining today which delays my investigation of the radiator fluid by a day. I will reserve a few oz for the test kit.

 

[Danica]

If the diesel mechanic is willing to work on it, absolutely he should be able to figure it out.

I would have tried to run it on a 5 gal can of fresh diesel as was suggested earlier. If it will run on that then you know you have a tank issue. Another thing I have done is add a cheap inline fuel pump to feed the filter. Do you have pictures of the injector pump? Sometimes there is a lift pump mounted on or close by.

Update- mechanic working on it now and it appears to be air entering system between tank and filter bowl. Trouble is that it is a very difficult hose to get to. If he can’t access from front instrument panel then it will have to go to dealer since Sims cab will probably have to come off. That is going to be so expensive for a $5 piece of hose.
;(

 

[BleedingOrange]

Interesting, does he know how or why that conclusion makes it overheat after running for half an hour, or so ?

 

[dirttoys]

Update- mechanic working on it now and it appears to be air entering system between tank and filter bowl. Trouble is that it is a very difficult hose to get to. If he can’t access from front instrument panel then it will have to go to dealer since Sims cab will probably have to come off. That is going to be so expensive for a $5 piece of hose.
;(

Glad you are on track, much better than an internal engine issue, even if it is more than a person would like to pay. Have him put in a "life time" hose

JK but, the best hose he can get would be ideal.

Best,

ed

 

[SPYDERLK]

Interesting, does he know how or why that conclusion makes it overheat after running for half an hour, or so ?

OP tractor does not overheat. It cuts off after it warms up.

 

[Zach3988]

I'm Zach .Mechanic here lol , came from a background of hatz diesel engines and Medium duty/ heavy duty truck repair .tighter clamps on fuel hose from the filter to the injection pump . Noticed it ran better but would sustain the 2200-2500 rpm range for a longer period . Inspecting fuel hose from tank to filter housing . No leaking or signs of leaking . So tractor sputters and misses when hot or at about operating temp . Cracking the bleeder on the fuel Injection pump makes the engine run better but still tons of air bubbles , Next week I will be checking oring/ housing for possibly leaking when warm or cracking injector lines and seeing about bleeding entire system . Seems like an Intermittent fuel/ air leak on fuel system . Even possibly open radiator cap and check for bubbles. We will keep you guys posted !

 

[K5lwq]

Zach, welcome to TBN and so glad you are there to help her! Check the o-ring on top of the fuel filter insert. I know she put a new filter on and am wondering if it is not seated properly.

 

[dirttoys]

I'm Zach .Mechanic here lol , came from a background of hatz diesel engines and Medium duty/ heavy duty truck repair .tighter clamps on fuel hose from the filter to the injection pump . Noticed it ran better but would sustain the 2200-2500 rpm range for a longer period . Inspecting fuel hose from tank to filter housing . No leaking or signs of leaking . So tractor sputters and misses when hot or at about operating temp . Cracking the bleeder on the fuel Injection pump makes the engine run better but still tons of air bubbles , Next week I will be checking oring/ housing for possibly leaking when warm or cracking injector lines and seeing about bleeding entire system . Seems like an Intermittent fuel/ air leak on fuel system . Even possibly open radiator cap and check for bubbles. We will keep you guys posted !

Thanks for the update. Weird run time or temp effects it.

Stupid old guy question, can you put it on an alternate fuel source? Boat tank or something on the hood, gravity to the injector pump? It sure seems like this should be simpler.........

I am sure the OP appreciates the help, and we all look forward to hearing what cures it.

Best,

ed

 

[Zach3988]

Thanks for the update. Weird run time or temp effects it.

Stupid old guy question, can you put it on an alternate fuel source? Boat tank or something on the hood, gravity to the injector pump? It sure seems like this should be simpler.........

I am sure the OP appreciates the help, and we all look forward to hearing what cures it.

Best,

ed

Actually thought about that , have a spare tank here so Im going to make a fuel cell and give it a try , or swap fuel filter with a temporary one to see if it mimics problem or hopefully points is in a good direction.!

 

[dirttoys]

Actually thought about that , have a spare tank here so Im going to make a fuel cell and give it a try , or swap fuel filter with a temporary one to see if it mimics problem or hopefully points is in a good direction.!

Cool, kind of you to join and keep us updated. If I was a 1,000 miles or so closer I would have loved to help Be great to know the solution.

Best,

ed