Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE

   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#21  
All the syptoms point to fuel starvation - which means as annoying as this is, it is still a better type of mechanical problem than something broken.

This sounds too simple, but could it be that the air vent is clogged on the fuel tank? Well, probably not since you do say,
"....When it died just now I quickly unhooked the fuel line to the filter and it was gushing out. So, this suggests it can’t be fuel starvation or I’d have just a trickle coming down from tank."

But it costs nothing to quickly loosen the fuel filler cap when it starts to die. Simple test.

Uh....back to your quote - which fuel line did you unhook? Was it the one from the fuel tank to the filter? Or the one from the the filter to the inlet to the fuel pump?

It doesn't matter, because all I'm going to say is that is a good test but would repeat it and this time unhook the other line just to make sure that there wasn't a bubble of air hiding out of sight and then expanding with heat. THat kind of hidden air bubble could be in either the fuel filter cap or the solenoid & gets warm, expands, and shuts off the flow.
And let it run into a can or jar for a few seconds to make sure that you really have continuous flow and are not just emptying the cup of fuel trapped in the hose by the air bubble.

luck,
rScotty

good luck beats good planning

Yes I blew out every line to the sediment bowl/filter including the one from the tank. The others I disconnected both ends and shot air thru them. So every line has been cleared of any sort of obstruction. And, yep I did try the tank cap trick many times!
D
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#22  
If voltage to fuel shut off solenoid is fluctuating or dropping what is the source of power for the coil?

Can you mechanically tie the shut off open? Some models have levers that make this simple and some do not.

My reasoning is it to try and isolate is this electrical or fuel system problem.

Well I did change the solenoid but could get voltmeter out again and monitor fluctuations (if any) as the engine starts dying. Generally I’d think the solenoid could be extended out half way if getting 7v but fully retract with 14v (or whatever it is…have to get manual out)
Thanks again for ideas.
D
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#23  
When the machine dies (or starts to) can you tell what the level of fuel is in the fuel bowl? If it is not FULL (no air) then than you have a fuel delivery problem. We have the same fuel filter housing / valve on our TC40D & had a similar issue. Fuel flowed perfectly from the tank if the line was disconnected, because the fuel cap vent was working fine. Reconnect it to the fuel valve / filter housing & 10 to 15 mins machine would die. Had to disconnect all the houses from the filter housing & blow them out with air... it was the vent / return line that was causing our problem...

Just a thought... don't rule out a line blockage.

Fuel bowl is absolutely full thru the entire die down process. I’ve made the mistake of accidentally leaving it off and come out to see it half full or lower. But in this case, no fuel level in bowl doesn’t change.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I didn't know that the Ford 1920 had a fuel transfer pump (lift pump) so I Googled it and sure enough there it is. So it jumps to the head of the list. Much as I hate to throw parts at a problem there comes a point when I will do a bit of that before calling a diesel mechanic.

View attachment 761914

Yup, I may just break down and buy one. I have done everything else mentioned on this site having created two separate threads. The only other thing I will check is the outflow from filter bowl during its power down cycle and checking a screen another user pointed out as a possible culprit. I need to write down ALL of the approaches suggested here and preserve for posterity and future users with similar issue.
Thanks again,
Danica
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I didn't know that the Ford 1920 had a fuel transfer pump (lift pump) so I Googled it and sure enough there it is. So it jumps to the head of the list. Much as I hate to throw parts at a problem there comes a point when I will do a bit of that before calling a diesel mechanic.

View attachment 761914

Ordered this. Couldn’t find on Amazon so got hit with $25 shipping! Oh well. By the end of this I may have replaced every part on the tractor. :)
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #26  
Well I did change the solenoid but could get voltmeter out again and monitor fluctuations (if any) as the engine starts dying. Generally I’d think the solenoid could be extended out half way if getting 7v but fully retract with 14v (or whatever it is…have to get manual out)
Thanks again for ideas.
D
Usually the way those fuel solenoids work is, they get full voltage for a few seconds to activate, then the voltage reduces to hold them in place without burning them up.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Have you taken fuel filter off and blown from fuel tànk to filter? Un do fuel pump and blown from filter to pump? I mean compressor blowing. Does your return look good? Blown tank out by putting a rag around blower and blocking return, to pressure the tank?

Yes I used 30psi on all lines (e.g., the returns too) and disconnected both ends on all but the fuel line since blowing air into it would presumably dislodge any ‘diesel algae’ (I know this is technically a misnomer). So all lines cleared. I ordered a new transfer pump but will also try a few other possible solutions suggested: checking fuel flow out of sediment bowl when it is dying, bleeding injectors, cleaning a screen referenced in another post and now I can’t recall where it was. That’s why when this is done I’m going to post ALL these ideas for future TBN member reference!
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Usually the way those fuel solenoids work is, they get full voltage for a few seconds to activate, then the voltage reduces to hold them in place without burning them up.

Oh I didn’t know that but recall a discussion of the voltages in the big technical repair manual. Maybe that’s why it dropped as I continuously monitored voltage during whole process. That does make sense but I was under the impression it needs like 14v to retract and if it loses that current (like key turned off) spring would extend plunger and cutoff fuel immediately…
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #29  
I don't believe they actually cut of the fuel (at least on my Kubota's they don't). What they do is eliminate any movement of the fuel rack on mine. I'd be looking at the lift pump. Easy to replace and inexpensive (well relatively so). No tractor parts are what I consider cheap today.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #30  
Yes I used 30psi on all lines (e.g., the returns too) and disconnected both ends on all but the fuel line since blowing air into it would presumably dislodge any ‘diesel algae’ (I know this is technically a misnomer). So all lines cleared. I ordered a new transfer pump but will also try a few other possible solutions suggested: checking fuel flow out of sediment bowl when it is dying, bleeding injectors, cleaning a screen referenced in another post and now I can’t recall where it was. That’s why when this is done I’m going to post ALL these ideas for future TBN member reference!
Remember that the casting at the top of the filter head is part of the fuel delivery circuit. Check that. You said you blew through the in and out lines but you didn't mention blowing out the filter casting itself. Pay particular attention to the fuel inlet part of the casting.

I would have checked the lift pump screen first before I ordered a new pump.
 
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