Saplings and brush around pond banks. Suggestions?

[OldIseki]

New tractor owner looking for some advice. I have an issue around my pond with some plant I can't recognize that likes to grow right on the water's edge. They can get quite large if left unchecked. I let them get a bit out of hand last summer and had to spend many hours with the chainsaw addressing the issue over the winter. Now there's small stumps and the freaking buggers are starting to come back again. I'd rather not have to back a bushhog up and down the bank over and over and larger the batwings seem like a bit much for my needs. Anyone have any suggestions? would a flail work well?

Note, my tractor doesn't have remotes or a 3rd function, but I've considered adding them, if needed.

Also, I'm aware of the laneshark, but I'm seriously wondering if it's worth the price. For most of my cutting needs, a bushhog would work very well. I only need something like this for the pond banks.

The pond is roughly 5 acres. Some of the bank edges have a ~1 - 2' drop to the water.

I have the same situation. I plan to buy one of the Sabre Samuri Deluxe cutters- about $1,700.

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[dahogman]

The bigger saplings could be cut at ground level with a chainsaw. Then immediately apply Tordon to the stump. I use Tordon extensively on my farm on tree stumps.

 

[Redtnsv]

If they are phragmites don't even bother cutting them when they are growing. They should be cut when dead or burned (typically winter months or early spring). They spread easily via rhizome. Best advice is to spray after they get tall with an aquatic glyphosphate. Then bring or cut. Repeat the process again. If you cut them they'll just keep coming back until the surround the pond.

 

[Wooddust]

Garlon3A mixed with diesel fuel, apply to the bark, not the foliaged, from the soil line up 15 inches.....This will kill the brush, then cut it down, it wont be back, safe to fish as long as you are careful. 3A wont kill fish and the diesel is not an issue. Mowing will be a lifetime of work. Other option is saw and treat the cut surface with Tordon RTU

 

[xBBx]

I might have the same sort of trees along the lake bank problem. They grow like crazy in small groups. If left unchecked they can get a couple inches thick. Typically there's a just a bunch of smaller trunks, less than an inch. I've used a brush hog. The pain is backing into the area. I've used a weed eater with a brush blade. Takes a some time, leaves pointy and semi-dangerous stumps. I've used weed killer. Doesn't last. So I've resorted to digging them out with a mini excavator. If it's the same or similar type of growth I have, a sickle bar would just bind up. I have not tried a flail mower but it looks like that would help. But most of these cut type options will leave a bunch of little stumps that are good for turning ankles or worse, if you're trying to fish there or walk. Thus the dig out. Just my 2 cents

 

[Ghost River Retrievers]

I have a similar lake ... around 5-6 acres. The dam side has a drop of around 3 feet. The sickle mower is absolutely perfect for the job. I had a few trees >1" in diameter that I removed with a blade and kept away with some herbicide that I can't recall the name of ... but once those trees were gone, I've been able to safely manicure the bank in about 20 minutes per trip. My sickle is a New Holland 451 (9' model), which will angle down to nearly 45 degrees.
As for a herbicide around a pond, I believe Rodeo is labeled for such an application.

 

[Smokeydog]

Smokydog - looks like your tractor is trying camouflage. How has the Intimidator been working for you. Went to local dealer web site to see how it works. If you don't mind - what was the cost? Thanks - Oosik.

Been a great work, old man multiplier tool. Plucking mostly evasive bushes from roadsides and fences.

Built a typical post/tree puller. Saw the advantage of the Danuser design.

Only seen videos. Contacted my local distributor to buy several times about purchase. Can’t buy direct. Promised to get back with me on cost. Months without follow up. Finally emailed Danuser of the problem. Dan Danuser quickly got involved worked thru the distributor for a good price and cheap shipping. So agreed. When I went to pick it up they increased the price significantly. I refused and ready to walk away when they agreed to what was previously agree on. Dan Danuser did follow up which was nice. They make good high quality equipment.
$2,100 about 5 years ago. On the M59 a real tree and Boulder mover.

 

[jcman]

It sure would, I had crappy luck with them in anything but a hay field, maybe just me?

Nope not just you. A sicklebar mower wouldn't handle 2 to 3" saplings, IMO.

 

[Maple Ridge]

I had the same thing, like a bushy willow sapling, and they grow in clumps! 1. A tractor on a pond bank with a mower hanging over the edge is how you die! Very dangerous, this is NOT recommended. And, as you've discovered, cutting them only helps for a bit and they grow back. 2. I had a friend bring his backhoe and he ripped them out. You wouldn't believe the root system these boogers have. So far this spring I don't see any sprouts but you can bet I'll be there with a shovel and snips if I do. If you don't have a friend with a backhoe, just take the plunge and hire someone. If you want them gone, it's your only option.

 

[ArlyA]

I strongly recommend a sickle bar mower. I use it all the time for pond edges and keeping saplings back along treelines. I have cut cottonwood saplings up to 3" (15 ft tall or so) with it but you have to slow down and give it time to chew thru whereas 1-1.5 inch you can just mow. It does a nice job of reaching out under the water and cutting off the vegetation below the waterline leaving a nice very smooth edge. I maintain about a 1/4 mile of pond edge and I sure as HE__ am not going to do it with handheld weed wacker or brush cutter - tried that and am never going back. Once you get it cleared the sickle bar mower does a nice maintenance job as well. Some points I need to note though:

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• Do not use the swather type guard on sickle bar mower for cutting saplings - they are not tough enough and you break the tops off. If you are not sure what i mean the swather type guard is a double guard that is slimmer and does not have a ledger plate under the sickle. The old style single guards with the serrated ledger plate are necessary.
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• Use serrated sickle sections which have the teeth to chew thru the woody material.
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• Use a stump killer like Tordon within 15 minutes of cutting the stumps. I use the squeeze bottle that I can buy at a Farm and Fleet for $14 a quart and lasts me 5-10 years.
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• Cut the stumps short so you do not have to mess with them again, i.e. lower your cutter bar for the cleanout and then raise it 1/2" or more for your normal cutting so you only cut them once.

I also use my sickle bar mower in the verticle position to cut back shrubs and bushes along my driveway. Note: You need to have a non-pitman stick type sickle bar mower for this.

Can you post photos of the tree's your sickle mower has cut?? Some of us are skeptical.