Saplings and brush around pond banks. Suggestions?
- Thread starter deelowe
- Start date
ning
Elite Member
Do I see that the offset flail mower requires two remotes for its operation?
Does it work well without a TnT kit, or does it really need more than two remotes total?
the old grind
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I do with the flail what I'd do with a rotary and vice versa. With the mower raised and a load in the bucket I back into position lower the mower part-way, engage, and bring the rpms up. (54" 3PH flail, 26+ PTO hp)
If a lot of field mowing isn't planned I suggest a 5'-6' medium duty rotary vs any wider. I used a 6' behind my 45hp gas and diesel Deeres (1520, 5210). I had the hp but wish I'd had more maneuverability. I sold it after a decade of only being used a dozen times.
Anyway IMO that too big a cutting area (X-Y plane) to match a curving bank (toward the water) just won't cut clean favors the flail for more than just less weight & hanging as far back. I bought mine with hammers and I get a cleaner cut, no windrows, no chaff, far great maneuverability than I ever had with the BH, and it's better that no counterweight for light grapple or loader work so can be left on for a while.
If a lot of field mowing isn't planned I suggest a 5'-6' medium duty rotary vs any wider. I used a 6' behind my 45hp gas and diesel Deeres (1520, 5210). I had the hp but wish I'd had more maneuverability. I sold it after a decade of only being used a dozen times.
Anyway IMO that too big a cutting area (X-Y plane) to match a curving bank (toward the water) just won't cut clean favors the flail for more than just less weight & hanging as far back. I bought mine with hammers and I get a cleaner cut, no windrows, no chaff, far great maneuverability than I ever had with the BH, and it's better that no counterweight for light grapple or loader work so can be left on for a while.
the old grind
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I bought a EFG 135 from Betstco and couldn't be happier with it. (53" cut vs 54" 
) The hammers are forged steel and I've neither chipped or dulled a one. Knee-high grass growing across the road & going to seed, check. Mowing horse-riding paths through field grasses and blackberries taller than me (6' 2") with 'trunks' to 1/4" dia, no prob. Olive, poplar, elm & willow by the pond to 1" dia, go slow and gone. I double-passed a 3/4 ac food plot in progress, that had been 'hogged' to 6-8" and left windrows that could have been baled. btw, that the cut width is narrow compared to most of all my 60" wide everything else is IMO such a non issue.
Would I do anything different? Let me take & post some fresh pics tomorrow (of pond approaches & since what I did last year) and put some things in context. I mow my 2+ ac lawn 'high' (>4") with a 61" 28 hp ZTR. I set my flail at 2" or less. Pretty much anything I've 'flailed' is cake for the ZTR for a year or so. Sorry to go on about flail mowers but IMO they're the most no-brainer-versatile and useful 3-PH implement I've ever had several years experience with (out of 20). Doesn't obviate anything said heretofore about other tips/tricks just that the tool does so much for this and much more.
As for the brand I chose: IMO good value esp for my use (5-10 hrs/yr after 3), well built. Pre-flight checks are easy. One cover-bolt to remove & check belt condition/tension, check the gearbox lube, a few pumps with the grease gun and you're "ok for lift-off". Note that belts are 'proprietary' AKA 1/2" increments with FHM. eg: 59 1/2" called out vs 59" or 60" typical. I smoked one pair (if you smell 'em their toast. Don't back up while engaged. Operating is not like patting your head while rubbing your stomach. lol) There was enough room me to adjust for 59"s, so TSC has all I'd need.
This is what mine looks like. If I had a Kubo MX of 45-50 PTO hp or so I'd consider/want the 60" med duty for ~$100 more than the 53" .. and I'd still be the most popular guy in the neighborhood for what it can do. Again, sorry to carry on .. (pics of results tomorrow)
) The hammers are forged steel and I've neither chipped or dulled a one. Knee-high grass growing across the road & going to seed, check. Mowing horse-riding paths through field grasses and blackberries taller than me (6' 2") with 'trunks' to 1/4" dia, no prob. Olive, poplar, elm & willow by the pond to 1" dia, go slow and gone. I double-passed a 3/4 ac food plot in progress, that had been 'hogged' to 6-8" and left windrows that could have been baled. btw, that the cut width is narrow compared to most of all my 60" wide everything else is IMO such a non issue.Would I do anything different? Let me take & post some fresh pics tomorrow (of pond approaches & since what I did last year) and put some things in context. I mow my 2+ ac lawn 'high' (>4") with a 61" 28 hp ZTR. I set my flail at 2" or less. Pretty much anything I've 'flailed' is cake for the ZTR for a year or so. Sorry to go on about flail mowers but IMO they're the most no-brainer-versatile and useful 3-PH implement I've ever had several years experience with (out of 20). Doesn't obviate anything said heretofore about other tips/tricks just that the tool does so much for this and much more.
As for the brand I chose: IMO good value esp for my use (5-10 hrs/yr after 3), well built. Pre-flight checks are easy. One cover-bolt to remove & check belt condition/tension, check the gearbox lube, a few pumps with the grease gun and you're "ok for lift-off". Note that belts are 'proprietary' AKA 1/2" increments with FHM. eg: 59 1/2" called out vs 59" or 60" typical. I smoked one pair (if you smell 'em their toast. Don't back up while engaged. Operating is not like patting your head while rubbing your stomach. lol) There was enough room me to adjust for 59"s, so TSC has all I'd need.
This is what mine looks like. If I had a Kubo MX of 45-50 PTO hp or so I'd consider/want the 60" med duty for ~$100 more than the 53" .. and I'd still be the most popular guy in the neighborhood for what it can do. Again, sorry to carry on .. (pics of results tomorrow)
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Big Blue Florida
Silver Member
I'll back up here a minute. If you're still concerned about the stumps returning into a tree(s), I might suggest going back to the chain saw.
This time make a cut down the middle of the stump. We did this around our pond (the last one we dug).
Nothing grew back after the vertical cut.
Just keep in mind, I've no clue as to what trees you're having an issue with.
This time make a cut down the middle of the stump. We did this around our pond (the last one we dug).
Nothing grew back after the vertical cut.
Just keep in mind, I've no clue as to what trees you're having an issue with.
Hay Dude
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Deelow,
I noticed you have a decent sized tractor. I don’t know all your other mowing chores, but another mower I recommend is a John Deere MX-8 twin spindle side shift mower. I had one of these mowers for years and it was a stellar mower.
It hooked up like any ordinary bush hog mower and had an 8’ cut width. However, it had a unique feature which allowed it to shift to the side 2 feet, allowing you to mow pond banks, under fences, under trees, etc. Did an excellent job and served me well for many years.
I bought it lightly used for about $4500. Sold it 5 years later for $5000.
If you can drive around your pond without danger of sliding or tipping into it, this may be very helpful. If I had to guess, I would say your tractor is probably 6‘-7’ wide. The MX-8, fully swung out to one side, should give you almost 3 feet of mowing width past your tractor tire.
Heres a few pictures of mine from about 15 years ago.
I noticed you have a decent sized tractor. I don’t know all your other mowing chores, but another mower I recommend is a John Deere MX-8 twin spindle side shift mower. I had one of these mowers for years and it was a stellar mower.
It hooked up like any ordinary bush hog mower and had an 8’ cut width. However, it had a unique feature which allowed it to shift to the side 2 feet, allowing you to mow pond banks, under fences, under trees, etc. Did an excellent job and served me well for many years.
I bought it lightly used for about $4500. Sold it 5 years later for $5000.
If you can drive around your pond without danger of sliding or tipping into it, this may be very helpful. If I had to guess, I would say your tractor is probably 6‘-7’ wide. The MX-8, fully swung out to one side, should give you almost 3 feet of mowing width past your tractor tire.
Heres a few pictures of mine from about 15 years ago.
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OP: looks like you're doing your homework on the project
so at what point will you start consuming fish from your pond should you go ahead with the chemicals many suggest here?
just asking, not an opinion. best on you challenge, a 3 acre pond is a gem to have
so at what point will you start consuming fish from your pond should you go ahead with the chemicals many suggest here?
just asking, not an opinion. best on you challenge, a 3 acre pond is a gem to have
ArlyA
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Josh, Maybe a 3 or 4 series tractor would have been better with this implement?