Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #221  
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   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #222  
Need a little advice on this setup. What I have are cinder blocks with 4x4 pressure treated lumber on it. Originally this was all going to be on the grounds but I decided to elevate it. Thought it might be adequate but I am questioning what this is going to be like with the saw head on it since the feet span across, and over the edge, of the 4x4s. Seems to me one good bump and I can knock the whole thing over. Any suggestions how to improve this setup?

View attachment 761072

The tracks will never stay true and you’ll spend a lot of time chasing problems. On this type of mill track (non structural), you need to have a very solid rigid base.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #223  
The tracks will never stay true and you’ll spend a lot of time chasing problems. On this type of mill track (non structural), you need to have a very solid rigid base.
It's a temp for now to start milling the structural lumber for a milling shed.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#224  
E1505351-112E-4C64-81AF-7DEF15974A12.jpeg
Last spring I needed a level place to assemble my mill so put down cinder blocks and 2x6’s, without plans to use it there. 6 months later it hasn't moved, although I have only sawn small logs and cedar with this setup. I need to move it so that I can put another extension on… I need some 16 foot lumber.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #225  
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but since we're on the topic of sawmills when I roll my Mill down the track where the two sections meet there's a slight bump we're the one section is probably less than an 18th higher. Is that going to cause problems?
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#226  
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but since we're on the topic of sawmills when I roll my Mill down the track where the two sections meet there's a slight bump we're the one section is probably less than an 18th higher. Is that going to cause problems?

I have a similar problem except that it's because of a slight crack where the two tracks are joined. It does cause problems as the saw carriage hitches up and sometimes twists when it hits one of them. I am just trying to find a solution, hopefully somebody else has already found one.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #227  
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but since we're on the topic of sawmills when I roll my Mill down the track where the two sections meet there's a slight bump we're the one section is probably less than an 18th higher. Is that going to cause problems?
Closely inspect the alignment between those 2 rails and if they are dead on then the lip can be filed lengthwise with the rail to create a gentle slope.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #228  
Theoretically any track "problems" will show up in the cut. Now we are taking about rough sawn lumber. :unsure:
Is there any provision to adjust the joint both l&r and up/down in the hardware that makes the track connections? (Slots or enlarged holes?)
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #229  
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but since we're on the topic of sawmills when I roll my Mill down the track where the two sections meet there's a slight bump we're the one section is probably less than an 18th higher. Is that going to cause problems?
IF you can't adjust it out, file it even!

SR
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #230  
You might be able to shim under the low side. Aluminum roof flashing makes great shims. Ideally the track rails should be straight across segment joints. On my Timbery 100, I was experiencing a bump at the section joints. Mating sides of joint are matched cut to fit together and should then be continuous. But the bolt heads protruded into the path of the guide rollers keeping carriage on the rails. Changed out the bolts, no more bumps. Jon
 
 
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