Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #271  

Jstpssng,​

I use the Garrett Super Scanner Hand Wand model #1165180, on every log.
I have found countless nails and/or metal with it. I have probably saved 30 blades using it. It pays for itself real quick. Christmas is coming and it would make a great present.
I have found 16d nails down 4 inches in my big logs.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#272  
Thanks. My problem though, is that I keep bouncing the blade off the log stops. :( This was the third blade which I've numbed that way.
Hopefully it's the last.

Jstpssng,​

I use the Garrett Super Scanner Hand Wand model #1165180, on every log.
I have found countless nails and/or metal with it. I have probably saved 30 blades using it. It pays for itself real quick. Christmas is coming and it would make a great present.
I have found 16d nails down 4 inches in my big logs.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #273  
If the stops are in your way, cut them off. :rolleyes: Simple.
I have about a 1/4 inch deep cut in my log clamp. I was flying through the cut, then...............zing.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #274  
Some folks like to make them out of wood, but I prefer to just teach myself to watch for them, even though over the years, I've hit mine a time or three.

SR
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #275  
Make what out of wood? The stops? My clamp would crush wooden stops.

My Woodmizer has red at the 1 inch mark on my scale, as the stop is 1 inch above the rails. Yellow at the 12 inch mark for the side supports full up. And orange at 14 inches for when the claw gets left fully up. My routine has me checking the scale each time after I lower the head, as every once and a while the simpleset forgets it's default setting and I have to manually stop the head from lowering more than intended.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #276  
Log post, and yes you have to be careful with them, that's another reason I don't use them.

SR
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #277  
Please explain exactly what a log post does. I am in the dark on the term. I can pick up a post, but I can't pick up a log.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #278  
I hope that the assembly instructions are better than what came with my LX25. I'm still figuring things out, like the bolts which determine how low the saw head will drop. It took me the longest time to realize why the lowest it would go was 1 1/2 inches.
YouTube. I have rewatched the official video several times, then watched a couple of actual user videos too. I am at the blade adjustment stage, we got pretty much everything assembled, but I decided to watch some videos one more time before actually firing up the engine with the blade on.

And the hole in the saw head is large enough that you can put the bushing on the shaft BEFORE mounting the engine (I didn’t find this out until AFTER following the official directions and having to fight in tight quarters with the Allen wrench on the set screw 🤬).

and some of the parts are bagged a little out of sequence, too. . .
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #279  
Please explain exactly what a log post does. I am in the dark on the term. I can pick up a post, but I can't pick up a log.
It does all kinds of things, sometimes even holding up a fence! lol

SR
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #280  
If my arm chair memory of the board feet of wood I cut this summer is close, I cut 7 to 8000 bft of wood. Most was 2" slabs for further resawing when needed. Some maple, ash, oak, then mostly red and white pine. Still have white cedar to cut, but ran out of time. (fall chores and projects need to be done before winter sets in) Based on the cheap "wire wrapped around the spark plug wire hour meter", I put on about 40 hours on the sawmill. Not sure if the hour meter is accurate, but it gives me a base for comparison.

I hit a nail in someone's maple that he remembered putting in for the house build many years ago. And a log post (back rest?) ruined 2 blades. Those blades cut wood slabs before hitting the steel. So with all that wood, I went through 10 blades. Need to find someone to resharpen them. After hitting the post, I am more aware of the coorelation to the number of adjustment notches in them and the inches on the log scale. 1 to 1 on my Timbury 100G9. Jon
 
 
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